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I Created a pretty realistic 720 Controller
PL1:
--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on March 14, 2025, 10:30:05 am ---Magnetic Reed Switch
--- End quote ---
Great suggestion, Steve. :cheers:
This might be an especially good approach for a setup with an X-Arcade encoder that uses isolated grounds.
- You can connect the magnetic reed switch leads in parallel with any button's microswitch.
- It avoids possible ground/power problems without using a 2nd USB encoder to register the "button press".
You can use M3 or #4-40 hardware to mount a round magnet with a hole in the center like one of these on the 2nd wheel.
You can use a hole-saw to make the 2nd wheel from wood or LMK if you want a 3d printable one with a screw hole and a captive nut slot like the hub of this wheel.
Scott
CKebz:
--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on March 14, 2025, 10:30:05 am ---If you can extend the base, to have a 2nd wheel... you could use a single Magnet... and to Track it,
a Magnetic Reed Switch, that would be mounted to the Control Panel, on a Riser.
I used a Magnetic Reed switch for a different specialty Controller. It worked like a Charm.
--- End quote ---
I have some joystick extenders, I think they will fit where the screw for the shaft is, or maybe i can have something fabricated. From there it sounds like I would need to attach a disc to the extended shaft, either with a magnet attached at the 12 position, or a tooth at the 12 to block an optic sensor when the stick is in that position.
The stick is about 1.5/2 inches from the case wall. Could I just screw an optical sensor or magnetic reed switch to the side of the wall? For the optical sensor, I found this on Amazon, would something like this work? This will be pretty awesome if it does work, and seems not to complicated.
PL1:
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 14, 2025, 03:55:08 pm ---I have some joystick extenders, I think they will fit where the screw for the shaft is, or maybe i can have something fabricated.
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If it's an M6 screw, then that might work well and it will add some space so the 2nd wheel clears the spinner opto.
If it's not, get a long screw and spacer to mount the 2nd encoder wheel.
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 14, 2025, 03:55:08 pm ---The stick is about 1.5/2 inches from the case wall. Could I just screw an optical sensor or magnetic reed switch to the side of the wall?
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Sounds like a good idea.
Not sure which reed switch to recommend, though.
Hopefully you can find one that has a fast enough response speed and has some screw tabs.
If you can't find one with screw tabs, you can hang the reed switch by the wires using 2 very small loop clamps/adel clamps.
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 14, 2025, 03:55:08 pm ---For the optical sensor, I found this on Amazon, would something like this work? This will be pretty awesome if it does work, and seems not to complicated.
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If you do go with an optical sensor, the one you posted might be difficult to work with because of the lack of mounting tabs and how shallow the slot between the LED and sensor is -- very little wiggle room.
It might be fine for encoder wheels with an outer rim, but a one tooth encoder wheel can get out of alignment and jam up if the red part of the wheel I posted earlier isn't riding in the slot.
One good bit of news is that 2018 and newer X-Arcade encoders don't use an isolated ground for each connector like the old ones did so that removes one possible issue mentioned in a previous post. ;D
https://support.xgaming.com/support/solutions/articles/12000003233-advanced-byo-kit-installation-diagram-with-wiring-schematic-
--- Quote ---NOTE: The ground wires are all ground, so you can use any ground with any input as needed.
--- End quote ---
Scott
CKebz:
Im going to try to go the optical sensor route. I found this free 3d program online and came up with a design. it would attach to the bottom of the shaft with the current screw that holds the spinner sensor disc. What do you think? I would need someone with a 3d printer to make it. I would gladly pay you for your services if you think this works.
PL1:
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 17, 2025, 12:09:42 am ---I would need someone with a 3d printer to make it. I would gladly pay you for your services if you think this works.
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As a wise man once said, "Yeah, that's gonna be a no from me, dawg."
A mod like this one will almost certainly take many iterations to get it dialed in properly.
- It would be faster and less expensive for you to buy a decent entry-level printer and work through the (increasingly easy) learning curve rather than paying someone to print and mail the parts to you. By the time you're done with this mod, I'm sure you'll find lots of other fun things to make with your new plastic poopin' robot. :lol
If there's no way you can set up a printer at your place, see if there is a local "makerspace" or see if there's a local Facebook group for 3d printing or many libraries now have 3d printers.
--- Quote from: CKebz on March 17, 2025, 12:09:42 am ---Im going to try to go the optical sensor route. I found this free 3d program online and came up with a design. it would attach to the bottom of the shaft with the current screw that holds the spinner sensor disc. What do you think?
--- End quote ---
It might work. :dunno
Impossible to say without knowing what sensors you'll be using, how you'll be mounting them, and all of the necessary dimensions for the part to have the encoder wheel properly lined up with the sensor slot.
The up-side to using the existing screw is that you don't have to find a long screw with matching threads.
The down-side to using the existing screw is that the walls of the spacer part have to be thick enough to handle any leverage applied to the wheel. Thicker walls and adding a taper to the spacer will make it much stronger.
Without taper:
--- Quote from: PL1 on August 27, 2022, 04:58:34 pm ---- The four main spacers were so long and thin that they broke with barely any side pressure. :banghead:
--- End quote ---
With taper:
How I recommend that you proceed:
1. Find the optimal MAME config/settings and confirm that centering works well enough and fast enough with a quick button press in 720, otherwise there's no sense going any further.
2. Select a suitable LED/sensor. The Adafruit ones mentioned earlier work great and I have some on-hand here so I can do test prints and provide feedback when you get to step 4.
3. Confirm that the LED/sensor works with your encoder.
4. Design, adjust, and fabricate a mount for the LED/sensor.
5. Adjust the design of the encoder wheel as needed and fabricate it.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the mod works.
7. Publish your results, settings, and files so the next guy doesn't have to wonder how you did it and struggle to reinvent your accomplishment. ;D
Scott
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