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Author Topic: Kortek K1-2-V0 Rev 01 Monitor waviness turning on air conditioner in next room?  (Read 546 times)

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Hi there, got something I could use a few pointers with.

The monitor is a Kortek K1-2-V0 Rev 01 chassis with a Samsung tube (looks like it may have been replaced at some point. This was an Ameridarts cab, originally a Phoenix, now living a good life as a Groovymame cabinet.)

The monitor is in a horizontal orientation.

For the most part the monitor has been working pretty well. Some high pitched whine when the back of the cab has been taken off but nothing super alarming (that might be the flyback I've read). On some games such as Street Fighter 2 there's a few minor interference lines on white areas I can spot, that are just slightly lighter than the surrounding color and travel/scroll a little bit on the white cloud areas for instance. I have to look for them to see them though. Not sure I'm all that bothered by those things but just wanted to give all information or symptoms that I can.

The more problematic issue that I definitely want to solve is:
When I turn on the air conditioner in the next room, I get wavy ripples on the left and right edges of the image that travel up and down (and it looks like some additional noise is induced even in the steady areas.) It makes things practically unplayable for vertical games as you can clearly sea the ocean wave edges. I can turn off the air conditioner and immediately see them go away. Now I don't mind the heat for some Donkey Kong but try to explain that to my housemates  ;D

What should I be looking for first? Perhaps the iso transformer, or the flyback? Could the air conditioner draw be causing the iso transformer to not get enough current/voltage? Again, it's in the next room over but could be the same circuit. I suppose I could try the cab on another circuit but that might mean more extension cords everywhere. This monitor hasn't been recapped (and it's on my to-do list at some point...) what should be my plan of attack?

Maybe a power conditioner (like what is installed in AV racks) could help?


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Perhaps the iso transformer, or the flyback?

Mate of mine had a similar issue and he found that putting his (expensive) isolation transformer before the chassis completely eliminated the issue. I saw it with my own eyes... was like magic! Here's what he used: Tortech Isolation 240/240V transformers

Of course, there's no guarantee that you would get the same result but I'd say it would be worth a try if you can borrow an isolation transformer.


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Try removing the ground from the frame.