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javeryh's Small-ish Bartop ["Jack Attack!"]
javeryh:
--- Quote from: Mike A on August 09, 2018, 10:52:14 am ---lookin good.
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Thanks. Baby steps...
--- Quote from: Jimbo on August 09, 2018, 12:19:10 pm ---That's looking lovely. Is that tinted glass? toughened/safety? How thick? How far from the monitor screen are you planning on mounting it?
I love the angle of the back, and that it's not dead vertical like mine. Very sylish and streamlined looking. :applaud:
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Thanks! It is tinted glass ("gray glass") and it is tempered as well. 1/8" thick. There will be about 1/8" between the glass and the screen due to the thickness of the bezel. I need to figure out how to mount the screen. It is so light that some heavy duty tape on the back of the bezel will probably be enough. I'm also planning on adding a panel of some sort stretching from side to side pressing up against it so it won't move... if that makes any sense.
I can't take credit for the angled back although I love the design. I started out with the plans for grippie's Sega Genesis Bartop and then shrunk it down and tweaked it a little bit to get the design I wanted.
I really can't wait for the art - I think it is going to look really nice. :cheers:
javeryh:
I started setting up the guts and I hope I'm not in over my head. I have a million questions on the raspberry pi but the first thing I had to fix was taping the monitor board to the back of the monitor. As soon as I turned it on, the board heated up and started melting the tape LOL. After a few minutes I smelled something burning and I was pretty sure it was not supposed to do that. So now I have to figure out what to do with the board. I think I have it sorted out but it is going to require making another interior panel that spans the width and holds the monitor on one side pressed up against the bezel and the monitor board on the other side.
I need to make some notes on things to figure out for the Raspberry Pi so ignore the next part unless you have answers!
1. How do I configure RetroPie to be in 4:3 aspect ratio? Every image I find online is 16:9. Yuck.
2. What emulators do I need for RetroPie to be able to play MAME, Daphne, and other arcade games (CPS, MisfitMAME, etc.)? How do I install them?
3. How do I tell RetroPie to trigger the ServoStik based on the game selected and the controls (4-way/8-way)?
4. Is there a way to merge gamelists so that Pac-Man (on MAME) will appear in the same list as Dragon's Lair (Daphne)?
5. How do I change the overall resolution of RetroPie? The display worked but I could tell the resolution settings in RetroPie were off. I need to force 800x600.
6. How do I remove the Raspberry Pi boot screen? I don't want to see the lines of code and the 3 raspberries - I'd like to substitute this with a custom image.
7. Does the Raspberry Pi provide enough power for marquee LEDs so I can use the USB ports on the Pi (this would help with one button on/off)?
8. Speaking of one button on/off, I do not want to have to go into the menu and shut down RetroPie every time. I'll need to figure out how to have the power button run a shutdown script or buy a third party add on.
9. How do I customize the RetroPie layout (or modify someone else's)? I'd like to boot straight into the game list that has custom graphics with just the marquee and maybe a video snap of the game in action.
I'm sure there are more but that's it for now. Jeez I better get going on this. :cheers:
javeryh:
Artwork update! I'm very happy to say the least.
The artist has finished the side art and marquee and they both look amazing. The only things left to decide are:
* The background and the robot are set to different contrast levels. The robot is higher contrast so it pops out more. The artist said that the contrast could be the same for the entire piece but he/she preferred the different contrast as shown. I agree.
* The number "2007" was added to the robot's chest plate because that was the year my son was born. Nice touch. It is removable of course but it is such a subtle detail I think I'm going to keep it.
* I need to decide on the brightness of the green reflection from the laser (see next pic below). I kind of like the greener version with more reflection to be honest. I could go either way but the neon green seems to be more "80s" and in line with the overall theme.
I also have to decide whether I want the border or not. I could also go either way here but I do like the border for some reason. Also, there are two buildings in the background that go against the profile of the side panel right where it starts to curve and it is much more noticeable in the borderless version. Or am I just being picky? I get the sense that the artist likes the borderless version better but my gut tells me the border marries the art to the cabinet better. Tough call.
I don't think I can go wrong at this point. The artist said once I've made the decision on the contrast, he/she will color the CP art to match.
Getting so close! I'm actually bummed out we are going on vacation because I want to finish! (not really)
:cheers:
JDFan:
What color T-molding are you using -- I think once it is added the sideart will look better without the border and the coloring from the t-molding will actually become the borderwhen looking at it from the side (and having 2 borders might look a bit off ) - So I'd probably go without the border ( Not to mention the harder time it will be making sure you get the border perfectly lined up when installing - otherwise that extra 1/16th of an inch between the border and edge of the cab on the front or back or top or bottom of the cab will drive your OCD self crazy !! :laugh2: )
javeryh:
--- Quote from: JDFan on August 12, 2018, 11:19:31 am ---What color T-molding are you using -- I think once it is added the sideart will look better without the border and the coloring from the t-molding will actually become the borderwhen looking at it from the side (and having 2 borders might look a bit off ) - So I'd probably go without the border ( Not to mention the harder time it will be making sure you get the border perfectly lined up when installing - otherwise that extra 1/16th of an inch between the border and edge of the cab on the front or back or top or bottom of the cab will drive your OCD self crazy !! :laugh2: )
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I know.
:laugh2:
I'm using WHITE t-molding, which is why I wanted a white border. It will frame the artwork nicely. Lining up the art with the border is a legitimate concern. This is the part where I just want to close my eyes and have someone else finish up - I'm too close to it all. Other than the border, anything else you'd change?