3D Printing : Arcade Edition Thread

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ark_ader:

--- Quote from: yotsuya on February 24, 2019, 09:00:34 pm ---
--- Quote from: ark_ader on November 15, 2018, 02:30:11 am ---So I got my Ender 3 and some nice white pro PLA from MatterHackers. Would it be possible (and not a waste of PLA) to print out some Star Wars Yokes and gears?

It has been talked about before: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=133656.0

Not sure if they would break under wear and tear.

Also has anyone made a cover for their 3d printer? I am not sure about the IKEA lack mod, but the PVC enclosure looks cheaper an contains the heat, since the weather is getting colder.

--- End quote ---

Just read this. I’m actually building an enclosure this weekend. Bought 3 IKEA Lacks and am printing the parts as I type. I saw one some friends set up and it’s perfect.

--- End quote ---

Lately it has been getting cooler in the garage, and it has been hard to get the bed up to temperature. So that lack enclosure is becoming a necessity. Are you going with glass or lexon?

yotsuya:

--- Quote from: ark_ader on February 25, 2019, 07:00:23 am ---
--- Quote from: yotsuya on February 24, 2019, 09:00:34 pm ---
Just read this. I’m actually building an enclosure this weekend. Bought 3 IKEA Lacks and am printing the parts as I type. I saw one some friends set up and it’s perfect.

--- End quote ---

Lately it has been getting cooler in the garage, and it has been hard to get the bed up to temperature. So that lack enclosure is becoming a necessity. Are you going with glass or lexon?

--- End quote ---
I’m going to go with plexi, but I’ve got a few ideas to give it a bit more flair. I’ll post pics as I build. Here’s where I’m currently at...

Howard_Casto:
I've been thinking metal is the way to go. That way, if my printer ever has a meltdown and overheats it would have a harder time catching anything on fire. I can just put some foam board on the outside for insulation. I know that regardless, it needs to be designed in such a way that I still have full access to every angle of the printer. I don't know how many times I've been trying to insert new filament and I've ended up having to fully or partially take the extruder apart to get things going properly.

So I'm thinking the base and the sides/top need to be attached via latches so I can just unlatch from the bottom and lift the whole thing off if needed.

I know that the pvc pipe is probably a bad idea. It's cheaper, but pvc gets brittle over time, especially if it's exposed to sunlight so it might snap on you.

yotsuya:

--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on February 25, 2019, 01:17:38 pm ---I've been thinking metal is the way to go. That way, if my printer ever has a meltdown and overheats it would have a harder time catching anything on fire. I can just put some foam board on the outside for insulation. I know that regardless, it needs to be designed in such a way that I still have full access to every angle of the printer. I don't know how many times I've been trying to insert new filament and I've ended up having to fully or partially take the extruder apart to get things going properly.

So I'm thinking the base and the sides/top need to be attached via latches so I can just unlatch from the bottom and lift the whole thing off if needed.

I know that the pvc pipe is probably a bad idea. It's cheaper, but pvc gets brittle over time, especially if it's exposed to sunlight so it might snap on you.

--- End quote ---

Howard, if you look closely at my pic, the top section has a 3D printed piece between it and the middle table. It’s a connecting mechanism that allows me to lift the top off for easy maintenance.

It’s kind of like stacking cones. The bottom is a cone shaped piece. The top has a cone shaped hole in the bottom. I think it will work very well.

Howard_Casto:
I can't really tell from the pics, sorry about that man.

I've got some sheet metal lying around I might go ahead and pickup some aluminum L channel and try things my way. Not sure. If we had an ikea nearby I'd probably be doing it your way.

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