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| Howard_Casto:
--- Quote from: SammyWI on January 12, 2017, 08:43:15 am ---Glad to hear that you got it running. You don't need to set any z offset in software. Leave it as is and adjust the nozzel to bed gap by adjusting the z switch height or the bed height. The cooling duct height is probably off because the hot end height can be installed at different heights and it may be a bit high. Be very careful if you adjust it - the threaded tube is not strong and many people break them. But they are cheap to replace. Most people print a different cooling duct but you may find that the models out there will also run too low unless you adjust the hot end or adjust the duct model. You can do plenty of printing with no cooling duct. --- End quote --- Well yeah and for normal printing I'll just adjust the screws on the hotbed. The thing is I would also like to experiment with a glass bed and perhaps print out a spindle attachment so it would be nice to be able to throw some g-code in there to change the offset. I might not even bother with auto level.... it seems to do ok as-is. As mentioned, the duct I printed out is about right, so that much isn't an issue at least. |
| 05SRT4:
Glad you got it going. Having a 3d printer is 90% figuring out how to use it and making adjustments and 10% printing. The printer I had was all about the Auto level feature but after awhile it just started causing more issues. I ended up removing the auto level Gcode and just put nuts and bolts on each corner of the bed. I rarely need to adjust anything once I get it dialed in. |
| Howard_Casto:
Heh yeah tell me about it. I'll be spending the next day or so printing out parts to make the printer better. The duct was an instant improvement... much smoother texture on the objects now. I just printed out z-axis bushings to fix a flaw in the design (z-screws were too short). Right now I'm printing out a top-mounted spindle holder since the one that came with it is basically a stick and the spool wobbles like crazy when printing (which has to screw up the precision). Then I want to design and print some tool holders since apparently fiddling is going to be a thing any time I change anything. After all of that I'll be able to trust it to print with a good degree of precision. I still need to print a power supply cover and motherboard cover as well... I might have to design my own for that as I can't find one that I like. |
| SammyWI:
--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on January 13, 2017, 11:26:01 pm ---..... I just printed out z-axis bushings to fix a flaw in the design (z-screws were too short). .... --- End quote --- This comes up on the FB groups a lot. If the ends of the Z axis threaded rods don't quite reach to the holes in the top piece it's almost always because coupling to the Z motor is installed wrong. It usually comes from the factory with the coupling pushed too far down on the motor shaft, and people often push the threaded Z rod too far in the top. Both the motor shafts and the threaded Z rods should only be inserted about 5 mm into the coupling, then the threaded rods will reach into the upper holes and the coupling is free to flex correctly. Also the top of the threaded rods do not need to be tightly restrained. The smooth Z rods hold the alignment, small movements of the threaded rods will not hurt anything and trying to tightly restrain them can cause binding. |
| Howard_Casto:
Nah it's a flaw in the design. Even with the couplings raised to where there is just barely enough contact to grip onto the motor shaft and z screw the screws just barely make it into the upper holes. I mean it's so little that if the axis were to have any kind of strain I would be afraid of them popping off. Before I installed them the right z screw had a tendency to lay crooked and when the z axis got towards the top it squeaked horribly....I think it was rubbing on the frame. Now it moves much more smoothly and their isn't any squeak. The bushings I printed don't bind the screws as there is just a little bit of room. |
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