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Howard_Casto:
Alright guys, I got it sorted. Thanks a bunch for the help. Part of the problem was on my end and the other part was on the printer's end.

Ok now keep in mind that I can't see well yet, so don't make fun of me too bad. It turns out my hotbed leads had a single strand of the braided wire touching and it was causing the sensor to go nuts. The thing is, the crappy firmware that is included with the printer doesn't really have any status messages, and thus why some of the models I sliced myself yesterday were just hanging... the bed never read the correct temp so it just sat there heating up.

Skynet also hang, but it hang at the "heating" message and the temp seemed off to me so I figured it out.

That still didn't explain the huge z-axis jumps though and why I couldn't connect the printer via usb in cura... that was all corrupted firmware.

So yeah, for those that order one of these, just skip some frustration and install Skynet. They even have a config file for the non-autolevel version so if you are going to buy the better sensor later on like me you are still covered.

The test cube turned out great. No gaps, no distorted edges, ect. and keep in mind I had to pick the thing up to fix that wire and didn't re-calibrate afterwards. I have a few issues to sort out though. I couldn't figure out how to set the z-offset as the instructions are for the auto level sensor and some of the menu options aren't in the new firmware anymore. So it's like .1mm off.... it still prints fine but if there is a bubble in my tape or something it drags. Speaking of dragging... the cooling neck that goes on the fan drags really bad... I had to take it off to print. I figure this isn't a big deal as I'm going to print a new one anyway.

SammyWI:
Glad to hear that you got it running. You don't need to set any z offset in software. Leave it as is and adjust the nozzel to bed gap by adjusting the z switch height or the bed height. The cooling duct height is probably off because the hot end height can be installed at different heights and it may be a bit high. Be very careful if you adjust it - the threaded tube is not strong and many people break them. But they are cheap to replace. Most people print a different cooling duct but you may find that the models out there will also run too low unless you adjust the hot end or adjust the duct model. You can do plenty of printing with no cooling duct.

pbj:
No pic = no test cube

Howard_Casto:
I figured somebody would say that. I can't find the charger to my good camera. I can take a crappy one on my phone.

Howard_Casto:
I guess I'll just keep posting my progress in case someone else wants to takes the plunge on this particular printer and wants some tips.

So I printed out this:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954001

It replaces the stock fan duct and it fits much better. It latches on the tab on the left wall of the fan, so it won't fall off anymore. It also sets a few mm above the hotend and just blows the air downwards, so it's far less likely to hang.

I'm done printing for the night so I'll report back if it works well when I print the next upgrade. I think I'll print the power supply cover next because not getting electrocuted = good. Also it might be nice to have a switch to turn the thing off.... I currently have to unplug it.

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