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| BadMouth:
--- Quote from: Mike A on May 05, 2022, 08:19:53 am ---If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine. These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering. --- End quote --- Kit? What kit? I did it the hard expensive way and ordered every bolt and piece of wire separately. :lol For the one I'm building now, I cut, drilled and tapped the extrusion myself. |
| nitrogen_widget:
--- Quote from: BadMouth on May 04, 2022, 03:31:19 pm ---So I'm printing parts on the Voron 2.4 and they start looking weird. The back is perfectly fine, the front is missing starting at a certain layer. Filaments spool preload might be a little tight, so I loosen it up and start the next print. Again, printer stops extruding filament toward the front. Diagnosis = extruder motor wires are probably broken inside the drag chains. :banghead: I already went through this with the inductive sensor a month ago, but was hoping it as an isolated case. I guess the silicone ribbon cable I used just wasn't up to the task. So now a complete rewire of the toolhead is required when I'd rather be working on other things. Again, this is a horrible hobby. :angry: EDIT: Fixed after three hours of work. I had just enough of various color silicone wire to make a new run for the extruder motor. The only other run from the toolhead using the bad wire was for the induction sensor which already failed and was already replaced a month ago. Now my "by the book" black and red V2 has a rainbow of wiring colors. --- End quote --- this is what i bought for my chiron hot end. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4SYVYG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 also just for the heater. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746H2K6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 have yet to put it in. too many other things going on now that it's spring. also that feeling when you are 48 hrs into a print and realize stupid fing cura decided to not put supports on one small 90 degree part. it's just the mast mount for a ship piece i'm printing vertically. i can cut the part out of the model, reprint then glue it in but it's going to be a pain to dril it out of the deck |
| Howard_Casto:
--- Quote from: Mike A on May 05, 2022, 08:19:53 am ---If you spend the money and don't buy a kit, then a 3D printer is a tool that just works with minor maintenance. Same with a CNC machine. These guys are buying kits and they enjoy the tinkering. --- End quote --- I wish that were that case Mike, but it really isn't. Even with a top-of-the-line printer the success rate is probably 80% on prints at best. Filament reacts to moisture, bed adhesion fluctuates, hot ends overheat ect. Remember we are essentially making a cake by stacking row after row of squirts of icing on top of each other and hoping that it doesn't fall over..... that ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- shouldn't even work so it's a miracle that it even works half of the time exactly as you intend it to. |
| talkgeek:
...honestly I think 80% is a bit low, and that will scare off people getting into this - its prob closer to 90+% - and my experience is most issues are filament (temp / moisture / bed adhesion) or slicer config - once you have tuned in your printer, ..and yes, (like anything including building arcades) you have to invest time to get the most out of it - the more prints (experience you gain) the less issues. I have 3 filament printers (and 2 resin printers) 1x Ender3 Pro (basic mod's - BLTouch, SKR-Mini3 board, Dual drive Bowden - my first printer) 2x Ender 3 standards - one heavily modified including V4.2.7 silent board with direct drive dual extruder, strong bed springs, dual Z axis drive, BLTouch, glassbed etc (tuned to print mostly Ninjaflex TPU) - the other E3 standard (last purchase) has had very little done to it (bar PFE Capricorn tube, strong bed springs and metal dual gear bowden drive) - and (probably because) I run same brand PLA only on that machine, almost never have issues with it (that aren't caused by me forgetting to add (or remove) supports when slicing) |
| BadMouth:
Thanks for the links nitrogen_widget. Those are cheaper than what I remember coming up in my searches. I am wondering if silicone cable is a good choice for inside cable chains though. It's flexible, but also grabs everything it comes into contact with. When the first wires to the inductor broke (four conductor silicone ribbon cable), I left them in the cable chain because it was easier than removing them. This time around I removed them and the other broken wires. The first set which was no longer connected at the toolhead end had worked itself backwards through the cable chain five or six inches. I am wondering if the sticky silicone ribbon cables weren't "walking" themselves backwards against each other as the cable chain rolled and unrolled. If so it would be an argument for $PTFE$ cable. I already ordered a larger gauge silicone ribbon cable on the current build, but it won't be inside a cable chain. Printed some brackets to hold the electronics where I would like them to live. The goal is to have the electronics and motors in a compartment insulated from both the frame and chamber with a couple big fans moving air across them. Still don't know exactly how that will work, but this lets me visualize how things fit. A lot less wire will be required. Still haven't lost any Y axis travel. Gonna start rewiring & printing parts for the Trident Z axis conversion. After the Trident conversion is done, I am going to try to incorporate the filament spools inside the frame under where the toolheads park on the sides. |
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