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BadMouth:
Last one I post. I swear.

This one was done in Cura, but oriented on its end like the Superslicer one. Surface finish is much better. This one was printed with 0% fan (40% on bridges). It is STRONG.
Tree supports were used which kept the left side perfect. The inside of the right hook which printed on top the support leaves a bit to be desired, but could probably be improved.
The holes and recesses are kind of messed up from where the supports connected. They probably weren't necessary and I should have blocked them.
Anyways, the left half of this print is up to my standards now. :lol

Probably sticking with Cura. I did notice that Superslicer has the option to add a shrinkage amount to the filament properties, which is awesome.
I've been redesigning parts to fit through trial and error when I should have just been scaling them in the slicer. I thought shrinking while cooling was too complicated to be a set percentage. After some research, it seems I may be wrong about that.

BadMouth:
I did a lot of testing yesterday trying to get nice overhangs with Polymaker ASA and no fan. This stuff is crazy strong when printed with no fan.
Conclusion: Without using the part cooling fan, the only solution is to go slow.....stupid slow....5mm/sec slow. :o
I would have never thought to go that slow, but that is where the testing led me.

There is an experimental setting in Cura for overhang angle and overhang speed % (% of wall speed).
I set that to 10% and then look at the "speed" color scheme in the preview to see how fast the overhangs are printed.
I printed a Benchy and the sides of the boat further up were still crap, so I reduced the overhang wall angle to 20% so that would print slow as well.

Also did some experimenting with minimum layer time on the benchy pipe up top. Lifting head resulted in a worse print. Pausing to wait at all resulted in a worse print. Filament oozes while printing has stopped and makes a mess. It's better to keep the nozzle moving, but get the longer layer time by going.....stupid slow again. Under cooling, I set the minimum speed to 5mm/s then adjusted the layer time until the pipe printed around that speed. (so the nozzle doesn't stop moving) Ended up with an 18 second layer time and the pipe comes out perfect every time. This is actually faster than the 25 second layer time I've seen some people use for ABS. The one I printed with slow sides and pipe was just over 2 hours. It still has issues on the posts of the cab at the level of the windows. I am pretty sure that could be fixed by printing the entire thing slower, but I don't feel like doing a 3 hr Benchy.

Thought I would share since I've never seen anyone anywhere printing this slow before.

BadMouth:
Voron 1.8 widebody edition, with double the toolheads. ;D

I was a bit apprehensive of going down this path, but it wasn't as hard as expected.
It took an evening and a morning to get the config file squared away.

Nowhere near printing yet, but I can home and control the toolheads independently. Everything moves in the direction it supposed to.
I'm not using anything that wasn't already in klipper (hybrid_corexy kinematics, dual_carriage). Getting all the directions correct so the X motors don't fight the Y motors took some trial and error, but wasn't that bad.
The only issue is that when homing Z, Klipper doesn't have an option to automatically switch to the required toolhead if the wrong one is currently selected.
It can be worked around, but is more complicated than it should be.

I started printing the parts eddietheengineer has on github https://github.com/FrankenVoron/Tridex, but didn't want to buy NEMA 14 motors and didn't like how thin some parts of the front idler assemblies were. I also didn't want to spend the time & plastic printing parts that will most certainly be revised later. So for the Y axis, I used a pair of NEMA 17s from the dead printer junkyard and mounted them the quickest/least effort way with parts I had on hand. He had an issue with the backs of the x-axis belts rubbing against the linear rail blocks. My setup also has this problem. Either the idlers on the x/y gantry need moved forward or the extrusion between them needs moved back. For now I ordered smaller idlers which aren't ideal, but will hopefully move the belts forward a tiny amount. EDIT: Also wondering if using toothed instead of smooth idlers would give any clearance.

eddietheengineer's BOM calls for a mcu that can handle 7 motors. This is only the case if you are using CANBUS to control the two extruder motors. If not, 9 motor drivers are needed. The CANBUS setup is another layer of expense & complication that I am not ready for. I can get away with 8 motor drivers(Octopus) since the 1.8 only needs two for the Z axis instead of 3 like the Trident. Right now I am running both Y motors off the same driver, so could add a third Z for a Trident conversion. I need to see if the linked Y motors cause any issues first. I already had a 3 driver expansion board on the way from aliexpress. When it arrives I will see if it works with the Octopus.

This is a test rig and pretty much everything on it is temporary.
I wanted to make sure that I could get the kinematics working before sinking more time and money into details.
Now that the concept works (I think), it can be refined.

nitrogen_widget:

is this for water soluble supports or just to be an absolute madman?

BadMouth:

--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on April 21, 2022, 06:55:13 pm ---is this for water soluble supports or just to be an absolute madman?

--- End quote ---

Soluble supports. It might be HIPS with limonene though, I haven't worked out the math. HIPS is cheap, but the limonene solvent is expensive. PVA filament is expensive, but water is cheap. I also think HIPS is fairy brittle, so it might break off easy then just require a spot clean with the solvent?

This thing is a long term project with an indefinite time frame.
Today I reworked the STLs for the ends of the gantry to add clearance behind the X belts and secure the Y belts.
Those will print tonight.

I flipped the Y motors to higher up inside the frame and am working out a pulley and tensioner system.

After the motion control is worked out, there are still many issues that I am choosing not to think about until I have to.

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