So ... 3d Printers....

Main > Everything Else

<< < (249/284) > >>

nitrogen_widget:
This is the hotend i've printed up.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4236354

Here is the dual drive extruder.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094HRCSYF?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title&th=1
Here is the smaller stepper for the extruder.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TY4BFF2?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title&th=1

I never saw a direct drive's components so was very confused at first on how the hotend heatsink mounted to the printer with me removing the the mount from the chiron.
I feel stupid now because i stared at the extruder and the heatsink and then the bulb went off and it was easy.

The new stepper is so small next to the original stepper.

after i got it all assembled i realized i forgot to press the nuts into the inside so had to take apart and do again. this is where the new bracket attaches to the carriage via the original hotend bracket.

painted up and almost ready to go on.
I put some rubber cement on the part cooling fan because even though there isn't much resistance i felt some kind of seal should of been between the fan and the part cooler.
I'm waiting for some heat sink compound to arrive since my last bit was rock hard. i want to use it on the threads for the copper heatbreak going into the heat sink.

I just printed up a new heatsink for the V6 that uses a standard 40mm fan.
I can't find the cooler that came with it. eh, it was 30 mm anyways.
painting that now.

yes i know these prints looks awful finish wise.
nobody will ever get that close to the hotend so i don't need a show piece.

now i need to create a part to mount my junction PCB to the carriage.

BadMouth:

--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on March 23, 2022, 05:42:06 pm ---yes i know these prints looks awful finish wise.
nobody will ever get that close to the hotend so i don't need a show piece.

--- End quote ---

Looks as good as what I've been getting recently. :banghead:

I've been tweaking the Voron 2.4 trying to get more speed out of it, but am coming to the conclusion that the materials I print with (ABS & ASA mostly) just don't like to be printed fast.
Even if I manage to print a layer fast, the print goes to crap if the minimum layer time isn't long enough. This pretty much cancels out any increases in print speed when printing a single object that isn't huge. Part fan cooling may make the parts look better, but will result in weak parts. 60mm/s walls and 150mm/s infill seems to be as fast as it wants to go and still produce decent looking prints. Acceleration max is only set to 3500 because when I did the initial setup, whatever test results dictated that print quality decreased over that. I've run the full setup including input shaping using an accelerometer. Someday I'll do all that testing again I guess. :-[

I got some Black Polymaker ASA and printed a bunch of tests to dial it in. Everything looked great until I printed an actual useful part (fishing rod holder). I dunno why the valleys look like crap. Maybe having ironing turned on messed with the valleys. The (supported)overhangs underneath look really bad, but they could be designed out of the part. Seams always look bad. Guess I need to spend days reprinting the same part to figure it out. :'(

nitrogen_widget:

--- Quote from: BadMouth on March 26, 2022, 09:17:40 am ---
--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on March 23, 2022, 05:42:06 pm ---yes i know these prints looks awful finish wise.
nobody will ever get that close to the hotend so i don't need a show piece.

--- End quote ---

Looks as good as what I've been getting recently. :banghead:

I've been tweaking the Voron 2.4 trying to get more speed out of it, but am coming to the conclusion that the materials I print with (ABS & ASA mostly) just don't like to be printed fast.
Even if I manage to print a layer fast, the print goes to crap if the minimum layer time isn't long enough. This pretty much cancels out any increases in print speed when printing a single object that isn't huge. Part fan cooling may make the parts look better, but will result in weak parts. 60mm/s walls and 150mm/s infill seems to be as fast as it wants to go and still produce decent looking prints. Acceleration max is only set to 3500 because when I did the initial setup, whatever test results dictated that print quality decreased over that. I've run the full setup including input shaping using an accelerometer. Someday I'll do all that testing again I guess. :-[

I got some Black Polymaker ASA and printed a bunch of tests to dial it in. Everything looked great until I printed an actual useful part (fishing rod holder). I dunno why the valleys look like crap. Maybe having ironing turned on messed with the valleys. The (supported)overhangs underneath look really bad, but they could be designed out of the part. Seams always look bad. Guess I need to spend days reprinting the same part to figure it out. :'(

--- End quote ---

I would flip that part on the long end to print.
but i'm guessing the velcro run inside it might cease to exist if you did that.
the fact you were able to get velcro to work with a print like that is amazing.
sometimes i can't even get nuts to sink properly.

I found a profile for pet-g on the vyper and it's printing amazingly. hardly any stringing and high quality.
printing loot studios swamp shack made for resin printers in pet-g and while annoying to print so many little parts to glue together it looks good.

I had to print some 30mm to 40mm extender adaptors in order to clear the mounting plate.
i'm doing a 35mm and 40 mm extender.
for the second time.
I didn't realize how thin they printed and broke both trying to remove supports so a reprint with different supports is happening now.
i'm building a franken hotend now.
i've been dragging my feet on the re-wire process though.

BadMouth:

--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on March 26, 2022, 09:47:27 am ---I would flip that part on the long end to print.
but i'm guessing the velcro run inside it might cease to exist if you did that.

--- End quote ---

That was my original plan, but I didn't like the way Cura was handling the bridge over the open velcro channel.
It chooses to print long lines over empty space rather than bridge over the narrow horizontal channel.
I will still give it a shot.

I dislike a lot of the decisions Cura makes about the toolpath.
I try SuperSlicer every few months, but end up getting annoyed with it. Why can't I just add a friggin' filament? Instead it requires you to make changes to an existing one & save it as something else.
The last time around there was something in the g-code for the included calibration prints that the Voron didn't like. There is always something to make me give up and go back to Cura.

EDIT: Trying SuperSlicer again with this Voron profile: https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Ellis-PIF-Profile . The printer was trying to extrude my purge line before heating, so I had to add heat and wait lines before print_start in the superslicer start g-code. This is probably what was happening with the built in calibration tests last time I tried SuperSlicer. Not crazy about 40% part cooling fan for ABS/ASA, but I want to try the guy's settings without changing anything. Even if the part comes out nice, I will probably break it just to see how much strength was lost. :lol

BadMouth:
Surface finish and corners look sooo much better with the borrowed SuperSlicer profile.
Had a couple issues with the supports though. The ceiling popped right off and left a decent finish.
The floor that was touching the part however, is adhered to the layer below it. No way to get it separated, but sand it off.
Superslicer also added supports with brims around the bottom of the part all the way to the bed. The brims need trimmed off my part now.
This could probably be improved by tweaking the support settings. In Cura, using tree supports that only touch the build plate would solve it.

Biggest issue I have is that the part broke fairly easily when I squeezed both hooks together. That 40% fan probably both made the surface finish look good and killed layer adhesion.
I could not break the old part that was printed without a fan (except for bridges).

So now I guess I compare the superslicer settings to my Cura settings and decide which one to move forward on.
Both slicers are within a minute of each other, so the speed settings I arrived at myself in Cura must not be too far off.
The surface finish is much better on Superslicer though.

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version