| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Robotron Restoration |
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| opt2not:
--- Quote from: 8BitMonk on December 06, 2016, 01:21:00 am --- --- Quote from: opt2not on December 05, 2016, 09:51:36 pm ---CP is looking clean! Not sure what you're going to do about the Start Button lighting (the original cabinets had incandescent bulbs installed that "faintly" lit the blue buttons), but old-time BYOAC member whammoed turned me onto his LED solution to brighten up the lighting on those old buttons: http://www.nicemite.com/LightmiteLB/LightmiteLB.htm --- End quote --- Thanks for the suggestion. I only recently heard of nicemite, some cool stuff. I'm going to use super bright Blue LED's from Comet pinball. Haven't had a chance to add it to my Joust restoration thread yet but here's a comparison of the color difference with a normal bulb vs. a superbright red LED. --- End quote --- Ah cool, so you're sticking to the original sockets and just plugging these in. Good idea, keep it original'ish. I'd like to see how lit the original Blue buttons will get with these bulbs. |
| 8BitMonk:
Monitor Original monitor with bad Robotron burn. I had a nice K7000 I wanted to use, the only trick is that the frame is made for a WG 4900 chassis. The solution was to first remove the little plastic pcb holder from the largest metal tab on the chassis mounting area of the frame and hammer it flat. Then I removed the metal pcb holder from the original K7000 frame, the width matched almost exactly the width of the two smaller remaining metal tabs on the 4900 frame, the depth was also an exact match. Since the underside of the K7000 pcb holder is hollow I placed it over the top of the two tabs and tapped it into place with a hammer. I thought I might have to put a mounting screw through it to secure it but it was really snug just from the pressure of underlying tabs alone. Chassis back on and mounted to the wooden baseboard. Chassis is a little snug to the tube but otherwise works great, relatively easy fix. |
| 8BitMonk:
Back door re-attached. |
| 8BitMonk:
Re-doing the joystick plates The joy-plate indents were really bugging me, enough so that I decided I'd try removing the top part of the cpo and fix with bondo. Top of cpo peeled back. Bondo applied. Sanding was a trick, didn't want to get dust on the exposed cpo's adhesive so I used a piece of plexi as a shield while I sanded. Even with the shield some particles made their way onto it. Used some 3M spray adhesive just to make sure it stuck again. The surface was a little bumpy from the particles I missed or couldn't remove but no joy-plate indents and much improved. The plastic nose piece needed replacing as well. Here's a picture of the old piece with it's neoprene padding degraded along with the new padding I planned to use. I used a pin nailer to attached it and attached the new neoprene padding. Finished nose piece. Blue LED comparison to normal bulb. |
| 8BitMonk:
Coin Door Simple Green bath and rinsed with water after which you can still see a bit of rust and wear. After a light sanding, repainting and cleaning up the rejects. |
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