Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Pac-Man Restoration
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8BitMonk:

--- Quote from: vwalbridge on November 02, 2016, 03:45:13 pm ---Question: Are you trying to compensate for color fading that occurred with the original art? Or are you just going for the best match regardless?

--- End quote ---

I was going for best match, the side art hadn't faded too much so it thought I might get a good color match taking a chip from it. Using a stock color worked better in the end, in both pics the lighter color is a Sherwin Williams match off of a chip and the ones that match almost exactly are stock.
8BitMonk:
Yellow base coat

For the yellow base coat I had Sherwin Williams do a yellow color match off the door and also picked up some Krylon Sun yellow which is what's recommended at http://www.gamestencils.com/paint-codes

In the picture below the Krylon Sun Yellow is on top and the SW match is on the bottom. Sun Yellow was an almost perfect match. I began spraying using the cheapo ($8 on sale!) Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun



I had a really hard time getting the Krylon Sun Yellow to cover, after 4 coats it still wasn't solid. Looking online at user reviews on the WalMart website I noticed this was a common complaint about this color of Krylon.   





Since the Krylon was the color I wanted I took the can as well as the back door with the 4 coats on it to SW to see if they could match it with something that would give me better coverage. What we came up with was a stock color from their Resilience line called Vivid Yellow. It looks a bit lighter/brighter in the can but dry's nearly identical.



This gave me much better coverage. Amiibo Pac-Man approves.






8BitMonk:
Stencils

Next up, stencils. There's no two ways about it, Pac-Man stencils are a ---smurfette---, definitely not for the feint of heart. There's a lot of little detail and small pieces to account for which is a major pita when you're trying to get the backing off. I had issues with the stencil material not wanting to adhere in spots, I'd go to peal the backing off and the stencil piece would come with it, very frustrating and time consuming. These stencils were from This Old Game and a different material (semi-transparent black vs. white) than my Joust stencils and seemed less sticky. Not sure if it was the paint on the cab, the stencil material or the fact that that the temp dropped into the 50's which possibly messes with adhesion but it was very touchy.

Here they are lying on the floor, laughing at me, taunting me, daring me to try to apply them.



There's nothing on gamestencils.com about the Red/Blue colors so I had to do some forum scrounging. There are a couple of great Pac-Man restore threads out there, Spyridon's Return from D'oh and another from Phetishboy on klov. Spyridon used PPG auto paints which I wasn't familiar with and Phetishboy used stock colors I didn't like the match on so I had to dig a bit further.

Eventually I found a thread on the Classic Gaming Collectors of Canada site with some color suggestions on it. They mention using Behr colors Red Hot and Brilliant Sea so I decided to give them a try.

   

In my test they were way closer than the SW color match I had done from the cab (see below) so this is what I decided to go with.



8BitMonk:
Red

Back lines up to the back of the cab and 7" down.



Here you can see where the stencil wasn't sticking. I ended up having to use some push pins for my second coat, the looseness caused some overspray. I wasn't too worried as the other stencils cover much of this up.



Some lines are very sharp, others less so.



Finished side.



8BitMonk:
Blue

Masked and ready for blue. Here you can see how tedious it is to peel the stencil covering away. This is after sticking the stencil on and hoping as you stuck it you didn't peel away any of the smaller pieces.



You can see how some of the red is covered up by blue, the registration gives you some leeway. Some overspray on the blue here as well.



I had a major blowout of the stencil on the lower righthand part of one side. Decided to wait and see after the black was applied to decide if I wanted to fix it.



Couple more shots of line quality and overspray.



Finished red/blue sides and front.

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