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| Pac-Man Cabaret scratch build - 100% complete! |
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| Shun:
--- Quote from: kamshaft on March 22, 2015, 09:09:02 am --- --- Quote from: Shun on March 22, 2015, 08:49:41 am ---I would be interested in the height of the step between the control panel and the marquee. I think I may have already committed to this measurement on my cab but I would like to see how close it is to the original as I measured it by eye looking at photos online. --- End quote --- I was told it was around 3" - Not 100% sure though. --- End quote --- Thanks. I did have the step measured at 3" on my model, however it seemed slightly too big for my cab so I've reduced it to 2.6" by increasing the angle of the CP upwards, so its good to know that its close to the original. --- Quote from: kamshaft on March 22, 2015, 09:09:02 am ---Do you have photos of the original CP, the backside and all that? I know John Jacobsen from John's Arcade took his apart on camera. I'll have to go back and see. The wood backing on the CP should easy to reproduce. --- End quote --- I have watched a few of the John's Pac-Man restore videos over and over again trying to figure out the relative sizes of the cabs measurements. I also got some pictures from here which shows some of the internals of a cabaret cab: http://www.mombu.com/games/mame/t-fs-pacman-galaga-ms-pacman-pac-man-cabaret-cabinets-in-indianapolis-in-5472051.html Finally with regards to the control panel, I found this picture of a Tron cabaret control panel with measurements: |
| Shun:
Ok I have some new progress on the Pac-Man cabaret along with a new video on my Youtube channel. Firstly, I got some Midway coin doors through the post recently that I will be attaching to the front door of the cab. I'm in need of the metal surround of the coins door though, so if someone in the UK has some spares, please let me know :D So, the next part that I wanted to install on to the cab was the "step" between the control panel and bezel. This "step" needs to a have an angle that is the same as the runners that support the bezel and also a lip to hold the bezel in place with gravity. I also added some additional battens to increase the surface area of the wood to attached the panel to. So I cut the step panel to size width ways and then a bevel cut the length of the wood at about 38 degrees. Test fitted it in place and the angle seems to fit well. Before attaching the panel, I needed to add the lip that holds the bezel. This was made with some right angled edging from B&Q. Once glued in place I then glued the panel to the runners/batens. The edging had a curved side that needed to be sanded flat, this should have been done before I attached the panel to the cab, however I managed in the end. Once dry, I tested it out with a mock up of the bezel and it seems to fit great! Next job I think is to tackle the tv/monitor >:D |
| Shun:
More progress on the cab and a new video on the Youtube channel. I decided to dismantle the Philips 14 inch tv that I bought for about £4. Its a great little TV as it switches to AV as soon as it is switched on, so no need to use the remote to power the tv. The TV had some torx security screws holding the plastics in place. These will come in handy as the original machine had two of these holding one of the security brackets between the CP and bezel. I've separated a Sega Naomi monitor chassis from its tube before so I went through the steps of discharging, removing the neck board, unplugging the yoke and ground cables. Once all of the cables were disconnected the chassis was then free. There was also a mini pcb that is used for the power switch. This was freed by removing two more torx screws. With the tube separated I put it on to a duvet to protect the screen and the removed the remaining plastics. To mount the tube, I decided to create a small wooden frame by adding some triangular mounting points to two pieces of wood. This would then be held in place with some bolts. With the frame done, I then mounted the chassis to a scrap piece of MDF. I mounted it by cutting up a biro pen to use as stand offs. The next thing to do is to add some mounting points within the cab for the tube frame to attach to. The chassis mounting board will be screwed to the inside of the cab. |
| Dwill:
Can you upload your sketchup file? I'm kinda interested in something a similar project. Thanks |
| Shun:
--- Quote from: Dwill on April 27, 2015, 11:38:34 am ---Can you upload your sketchup file? I'm kinda interested in something a similar project. Thanks --- End quote --- I'll upload this to the 3D warehouse soon, just need to finish it before I do so. |
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