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| Pac-Man Cabaret scratch build - 100% complete! |
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| Shun:
Ok, I started a new project about 4-5 months ago, I decided that I would build a scratch built dedicated Pac-Man cab. I watched the restore videos of a Pac-Man cabaret cab over on the John's Arcade youtube channel and I thought that the smaller footprint of one of those is perfect for guys like me living in the UK where space can be a bit more limited. The first issue I had was that I couldn't find Pac-Man cabaret plans that were exactly what I wanted. There seem to be lots of plans for Ms. Pac-Man cabaret but not for standard Pac-Man cabarets. Luckily there is a sketch up model of one here: https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=81d2e6eb0768c15110145cc1b33dac39 However, not all of the dimensions are correct (the front "step" is completely missing for instance), so I used the sides of the model to start my build and I have modified the model as I have gone along (see attached picture) The sketch up model isn't perfect yet as it is a work in progress as is the cab. I've made videos of the build so far and posted them on my Youtube channel over at: https://www.youtube.com/user/Shundi12/videos However I am going to be posting progress in this thread as well. Once I get around to painting this cab I'm going to finish my MAME cab off at the same time as I've neglected it for a while now :laugh: |
| Shun:
I'm currently at part 7 in my video series over on Youtube, so I'm going to try and get this thread caught up over the next day or so. So initially I only had the dimensions of the sides of the cab so they were the first thing to cut. I'm using 18mm (I think) MDF for this project as I did with my MAME cab. I sketched the dimensions on to two pieces of the MDF that were clamped together and used a jigsaw to cut the sides out. This went surprisingly well and I didn't get many rough edges. However the sides on the original taper in towards the bottom of the cab which was not the case for mine as the width of these sides had already been cut by B&Q for free ;D So a simple job of cutting a tapered line in these two pieces of wood, turned into a nightmare. For some reason, my jigsaw started to pull to the right all of the time and made a mess of the edges that I was trying to cut even with a straight edge used as a guide. :angry: So after a lot of "No more nails", bondo/P38 and sanding, I managed to save the two sides ::) More to come... |
| Shun:
As I did in my MAME cab, I am going to be using No More Nails glue to put this cab together rather than screws and wood glue. After the almost disaster with the jigsaw when trying to cut the leading edge of the cabinet sides I decided to pick up a tool that would by better at cutting straight lines and bought a circular saw. It turns out they are not that expensive and I suspect that it may come in handy for non-arcade related jobs. However the power of these things still scares me a little when using them so I am really careful. Using this to cut out MDF is soooooo much easier now. I measured and cut the base of the cab and also cut a wooden batten to join the base to one side of the cab. Once dry, it stands up on its own! |
| Shun:
Using my now trusty circular saw, I cut the lower back vent section out. This has four rounded rectangular holes that have a wire mesh on the inside of the cab. I managed to make a mess of trying to re-create these rounded rectangle holes, but with a lot of sanding I managed to make them presentable. I may re-visit them at some point but for now I'll leave them as they are. I used no more nails and a wooden batten to attach this panel to the back of the cab. Once dry, it don't look too bad :D While waiting for various pieces to dry, I pre-glued a batten on to the other side of the cab, so that it was ready to be stuck on. To stick the second side, I needed to lay the cab on its back. I used another piece of MDF to make sure that it was square at the top of the cab. |
| Shun:
Once the glue was dry, the second side of the cab was now attached to the base. At this point both sides were a bit wobbly at the top, so the next thing to do was to fit the top panel to both sides to give make the strutter a bit more rigid. I had to make a bevel cut for the top panel so that the back edge would be flush with the back edge of the two sides (see pic 3 below). I measured it at about 20 degrees and to my surprise, came out really well. That circular saw is now my favourite tool that I have ;D I stuck the top panel to the two sides with no more nails with the help of some clamps. Once dry, it was time to cut and fit the upper top panel. This has a square hole for another vent, so I cut that out with my dodgy jigsaw and then stuck it in place by resting the cab on its back again. I think I need to drill a hole for the "kill switch" that was in the original Midway cab, but I'll do that at later when I'm wiring the cab up. |
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