Emulation Cabinet Definitions - (was: New here)

[Dogface]

Hello,

This is my first post and I have a noob question.  I've read the faq and everything but does anyone have a definitions page posted where I can find out what it is everyone is talking about?  MDS, SCART, etc.  

That's it for now.  Finances and space aren't really allowing for me to build anything right now but I may dabble with making a controllor for my pc.  

[Stingray]

Dogface, I'm new here myself.  I just finished building a controller for my Mac. Be aware that if you build yourself a controller it will make the longing for a full cabinet MAME even stronger.  

-S

[DarkKobold]

This actually isn't a bad suggestion... I think all websites should have an acyronym page... I can see where the confusion would come in reading these posts....

"Well, I tried mounting my RGB monitor to the MDF and now the AVGA isn't working. I just hooked the JPAC into the PC, so maybe that is the problem IMHO. Since I'm using Supers as opposed to Wicos, the NO on the Micro may be hooked to the IPAC"

Granted, PC and IMHO don't really need explaining, but they add to the effect...

[Dogface]

I just don't want to be a pain and ask some really dumb questions.

[Sephroth57]

i dont think there is a definitions page...... someone make one =P

[Tiger-Heli]

I just don't want to be a pain and ask some really dumb questions.

Ask away!  It's the best way to learn. All of us were newbies once.

To answer your questions -

SCART is some kind of monitor/video thing (not sure myself
MDS - I think you mean MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard, basically a high-dollar particle board that lots of people use for their cabs.

Hmmn - other stuff you might run into -

Jamma - Japanese Arcade Machine Manufacturers Association (I think), basically a standard for wiring arcade machines from the mid-80's up.

I'm sure there are others.  Basically if you don't recognize it, do a Google search, do a board search (advanced works best) and then feel free to post and ask.

[mp2526]

"SCART socket is a 21 pin connector fitted on many European TV, VCR, and Satellite products, it provides stereo sound and video signals both in and out of the item of equipment (obviously depending on the particular type of equipment), it can also provide RGB signals, which can be useful for connecting Video Game Consoles or Digital TV Set Top Boxes (STB's). The main reason for using a SCART lead is to provide stereo sound from a stereo VCR, STB or satellite receiver, this is the only way to get stereo from these sources via your TV, a NICAM (or other kind of stereo TV) won't provide stereo sound unless the source includes a stereo encoder (NICAM or other), and these are too expensive for domestic equipment. It may also provide slightly better picture quality, but with the high quality modulators used these days it often doesn't - and in fact sometimes seems slightly worse.

 The SCART connector was developed by the French, originally for the sole purpose of preventing foreign TV imports, previously the French had legislation that prevented any TV imports unless the set was capable of receiving the old French 819 line monochrome system. This effectively stopped any foreign sets from being imported, but the demise of the 819 line system prevented this from being a valid reason for banning imports, so in order to try and maintain their private market they introduced the SCART socket, and passed legislation that said all TV's sold in France since 1980 must have a SCART socket. This was obviously much less of a deterrent, it was far simpler for TV manufacturers to add a SCART socket than to produce a dual-standard set, and the SCART was actually useful elsewhere with the development of cheap home video recorders.

SCART stands for Syndicat des Constructeurs d

[soslo]

IMO = sour cream alternative. not a lot of people know that.

[saint]

Wasn't sure if you were kidding or not

Definitions Link

It's always been on my to-do list to put many more than 3 definitions of course, but it's always been back burner.  Should we sticky a thread with definitions to add to the list?

--- saint

i dont think there is a definitions page...... someone make one =P

[Sephroth57]

nah i was serious, it would be helpful to a lot of new people on the boards. ive only been on here a week but ive been trolling these boards like crazy so i know most of the terms, but they are confusing at first

[soslo]

yes, Saint - a sticky thread would be great for the newbs...and for some of the old-timers that are too proud to ask about a definition

[paigeoliver]

A definition thread would also help with some of those unofficial names we use. Like "microleaf" (which is the microswitch version of the classic Wico joystick).

[grafixmonkey]

I think the sticky thread thing is a great idea.  Noobs can post a term that's confusing them and other people can post a definition and someone can copy-paste it into a defs page.  Near-zero work for the admins!  

[Lilwolf]

It might be nice to have it it two formats.

A straight definitions page in alpha order so that if someone says something, you can look it up.

The second a html link definition by type... or a how things work..

joystick -
-- Digital
---- Microswitchs (with pictures)
---- Hacking to PC
------- Encoders
------- Joystick hacks
------- Keyboard hacks

ect...

[Sephroth57]

umm its cool that this is stickyed now, but shouldnt the first post be where the info is? theres like 2 replies out of 10 in here that actually explain anything. maybe whoever wants to compile this should start a new post and go from there?

[Jakobud]

I'm wondering why there is a thread for this when there is already a section of the BYOAC website that is dedicated to this?  Its a little empty right now but could be easily improved upon with a little work.

[Dogface]

What are/is Goodtools used for?

[Tiger-Heli]

What are/is Goodtools used for?

Are you familiar with ClearMAME Pro?  ClrMAME checks what files MAME says your MAME ROMS should contain, and then checks your ROMS to see if they are OK or not.

GoodTools does the same thing for console roms (but isn't tied to a specific emulator.).

You use the GoodTools.exe for the specific console system, and GoodWindows to set it up.  I think you need a bin file also.

See http://www.retrogames.com/cowering.html and http://pj64.emulation64.com/support/software/index.htm (among others).

[paigeoliver]

Here are a few for you.

General terms

POT - Potentiometer. The thing that goes behind a knob, used in many analog controls, some spinners, for volume knobs, and on monitors and PCBs for fine controls.

Switching power supply - The style of power supply that comes in a metal box. These USUALLY provide +5, +12, and -5. That is not a hard and fast rule though, some of them also do +24, and units that ONLY do +5 or +12 exist in some older games. These power supplies are most common in newer games, although I have seen games as old as 1980 equipped with them from the factory (usually import games, school desk cocktails, Sega Turbo, etc).

Linear power supply - A power supply that is a PCB or that is part of an isolation transformer assembly. These are technically superior (they put out cleaner power, and can operate without load), but are seldom used these days. Most older games have these, although they are common in gambling games made right up until the present time.

Reunion stick, Ms. Galapac stick, Ms. Pac replacement - Terms used to refer to the "Ms. Pac-Man/Galaga Class of '81 replacement joystick" sold by Happ controls. This IS NOT the exact same stick that actually shipped in those units, but it is very similar.

Mounting plate - Usually refers to a piece of metal used to mount a joystick or trackball on a wooden control panel, but can also refer to a metal plate that holds multiple PCBS in an older game that used a larger amount of boards than usual.

Coin mech - The metal (or plastic) rectangular looking assembly that pops inside a coin door and actually does the job of either accepting or rejecting the coins. This term can also mean the entire coin acceptor assembly, but ONLY when it comes to games that did not locate their coin mechs on a door.

The above term is often confused with the following.

Coin door - The metal door assembly that actually holds the coin mechs on most machines.

MDF - Medium density fiberboard, also known as the heaviest substance known to man, and one that is often chosen by BYOAC members to build their cabinets out of. I have no idea why, I don't think any original cabinets were MDF.

Wico - A manufacturer of arcade controls. They are usually only referenced when talking about their old products (they USED to make the best arcade and console joysticks on the planet, but not anymore).

A few title abbreviations

SF - Street Fighter
MK - Mortal Kombat
KoF - King of Fighters
BM - Beatmania (or Bemani).
EDOT - Environmental Discs of Tron
DL - Dragon's Lair
SA - Space Ace
DDR - Dance Dance Revolution
SI - Space Invaders
AD - Asteroids Deluxe
SD - Space Duel
MVS - Neo Geo Multi Video System
DECO - Data East, usually in reference to their old cassette system.
Trilogy - Star Wars Trilogy Arcade
GT - Golden Tee Golf (usually in reference to the NEWER versions and not to the original one).

[Dogface]

Thanks for the clarifications on those terms.  I'll keep reading these boards and when I'm ready to take the plunge I'll let everyone know.

[MinerAl]

Switches:

* Leaf switch vs. Microswitch:

Leaf switch = two thin parallel pieces of metal that are usually not in contact, but when one piece  is pressed against the other (by a button, or joystick) an electrical circuit is completed.  Older games (pre-90s) used leaf switches for most everything, but most modern arcade controls, for better or worse, use microswitches.

Microswitch = one piece of metal that is bent to spring into contact with a pole when pressure is applied to the middle.  If you want to see how one works, you'll have to take it apart, because these kinds of switches tend to be encased in plastic.  They are smaller and easier to maintain than leaf switches, but have a distinct click when engaged (unlike nearly-silent leaf switches).

* What a switch does:

All switches have the ability to open and close a circuit.  A closed circuit allows electricity to flow through the switch, and an open circuit does not.  Imagine ants crawling along the top of a fence.  If the gate in the fence is closed, the ants can crawl right across, but if the gate is open they are stuck on one side until the gate closes again.  Electricity is the ants, and a switch is the gate.

* NO, C, and NC poles:

Switches can be Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC).  Some switches can do both, and you have to be careful to make sure that what happens when you engage the switch is what you want to happen.

For most arcade buttons (and joysticks), you want to attach wires to the Common (C) pole on a microswitch, and the Normally Open (NO) pole (the poles are the metal tabs that stick out of the plastic box).  That way the switch only closes the circuit when the switch is engaged.

* Others:

There are other switches in an arcade machine.  Some cabinets have switches that open the circuit (prevent electrical flow) when the coin door, or a back panel is open.  There are switches at the bottom of most coin mechanisms that close the circuit when a coin moves their long wire actuators.   These switches may look very different from the switches under the buttons, but they work the same way.

(engineers, gramarians, and other experts, please correct me as necessary)

[Stingray]

I've taken the liberty of compiling the useful stuff that's been posted to this thread so far:

http://www.stingrays.dk/arcade/arcabb.html

I'll continue to add information as it's posted here. When I get around to it I'll re-organise the list in alpha order.

-S

[Brad Lee]

Optical COntrols - Typically used to refer to spinners and trackballs. These are very similar in basic construction to PC mice(the ball type). When you spin the spinner or move the ball, it is connected to a small spoked wheel(the optical encoder) This encoder wheel spins in a small groove in the optical sensor. This optical sensor consists of a LED and a LED sensor that can tell which way the device is turning and at what speed. The optical sensor then sends this information to the PC(or game board) and translates it to move the cursor/ship/man/whatever

Dedicated vs Conversion cabinets- Dedicated cabinets would be the original cabinets intended for a game. Conversion kits were sold at a greatly reduced cost comapred to a dedicated cabinet, and often consisted of new artwork for the sides/marquee/CPO, new boards to replace an old game, instruction cards, etc. THe arcade operator would need to replace these parts himself to cut down on cost. Usually conversion kits would be for games that ahd the same buttons, controls and layout as the original, so very little cutting or building is required

CPO - Control Panel Overlay
This is the artwork that is found on the control panel. Made out of many different materials. Usually adhesive and durable, but some are designed to be applied to the control panel and then covered with plexi/lexan/glass

Marquee -  this is the glass or plastic piece at the very top of the cabinet, above the monitor that has the game name and artwork. Usually translucent and backlighted for effect.

Bezel  - the piece that fits around the front of the monitor. Usually dark plastic or cardboard. Sometimes it was actually painted on the glass coveringhte monitor. Used to pretty things up, if the screen doesnt go all the way to the sides of the cab. Can be a good place for game instruction cards or other artwork



I know some of these things are pretty basic but if this is for newbies then it may be useful

[Stingray]

Updated the definitions page to include the info in Brad's post.

-S

[paigeoliver]

Optical switch - Mainly used in pinballs, but also in some joysticks and arcade buttons. Also used (often in series of 2 or 3) for gas pedals. Similar to normal optical controls, but they work simply in an on/off method, either the switch is open or closed. The Turbo gas pedal is optical in this manner, as are many newer Williams pinball buttons, original Berzerk joysticks, and early model Joust joysticks. These require a +5 volt connection in addition to the normal ones.

[Gideon]

Rotary Joystick - A joystick that accepts two types of input:  one based upon the handles' position and the other based upon its rotation.

[Hellfromabove]

DOG FACE?!

VIC IS THAT YOU?! Hey man it's me Tushar, didn't know you came on here too!!! Yeah man, where have you been?! I haven't seen you in a while. You're never at Family Fun anymore. hit me back man. Thanx.

-See Ya!!!