Main > Driving & Racing Cabinets
Mini Project: Under-dash Optical wheel.
Slippyblade:
Holy crap. I love it when McGyverized things work! Once this is complete I am totally building one.
Howard_Casto:
That encoder wheel is a pain in the butt though.
I'm thinking I'll remove the shaft tomorrow so I'll have enough length to thread a nut back on. Then I can use the corners of the nut to draw lines and find the center point.
I might have to grind the shaft down a little to remove the current hole, but I've got enough slack (I think).
Howard_Casto:
As promised pics.... they are a tad blurry though due to the odd angles. The blob you see in the one pic is hot glue, which does a decent job of holding the encoder wheel in place. I would like to take a vid but honestly I'm not sure how I would manage to play the game, hold the camera and get the wheel and monitor in the shot.
Howard_Casto:
I'm trying to get stuff ready for the 4th, so this is on hold until the weekend, but I should get it done then and I'll make a full writeup.
Where are my AVR people at? I'm looking for an example to read encoders, preferably for the teensy. I've found a bunch of hid mouse examples but it's people faking other devices to show up as a mouse.
lolomc2:
Howard, I saw your post too late :dunno
I made a spinner (to play arkanoid) by using an old mouse those last week
I used a 12 mm screw which is fitting inside another metalic part. This part is a kind of cylinder (difficult to explain without picture). Inside, there is a 12,1mm hole and outside, there is a thread so it was very easy to get the screw rotating on one axis. And also very easy to attach one on a plate.
Then, I cutted the 12mm screw on both side. One side, I drilled and tapped at 6 mm, in the middle the best I could, to fit another screw to attach the head of the spinner.
On the other side, I tried to localise, the best I could, the center of the screw and I drilled a 2,5 mm hole inside.
Then I used a copper brazing rod (thank you google translate :laugh2: ) which is +/-2,3 mm and plunged it inside on a distance of 12-15 mm. Both are not glued but it is long enough to be sure that 99% of the movement is transmitted.
I did that because the optical wheel of the mouse has a hole in the middle which is 2 mm.
So, I used sand paper to reduce the copper diameter, only in the end part, where the optical wheel is inserted.
Finally I put a very long but very low pusched spring to keep the optical wheel in place as otherwise, it would maybe fall down.
Sorry, no pictures are available yet.
The funny thing is that I used, to be the head of my spinner, my old cap mechanism toilet. When I bought my house, I though that it had a look of a spinner head... And now, I used it to be a spinner :laugh2:
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