Mission Control Project: 5 years on, what to do with the leftovers?

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mpm32:
Don't use shelac. It gets damaged easily with moisture. I build furniture and restore antiques. I use a polymerized tung oil. (sutherland is the brand) It's a wipe on finish that you apply in coats and builds up to a very hard finish. Whatever you do don't use plastic (poly).

DrewKaree:

--- Quote from: mpm32 on December 13, 2005, 02:33:52 pm ---Don't use shelac. It gets damaged easily with moisture. I build furniture and restore antiques. I use a polymerized tung oil. (sutherland is the brand) It's a wipe on finish that you apply in coats and builds up to a very hard finish. Whatever you do don't use plastic (poly).

--- End quote ---

What's in that oil finish that builds up? I've never seen the stuff, so I'm just going on regular tung oil, which that stuff definitely doesn't seem to be. And what's the price run on that stuff?

markrvp:
Time for your weekly update.

mpm32:
Drew,

Here's a link to the finish I was talking about.

http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/ptodir.htm

Nothing looks better on on wood, this really makes the grain pop. A french polish with shelac looks really nice but it won't have the durability that this does.

It's not cheap but nothing really good ever is.

Pixelhugger:
Top of the CP is complete. Just gotta wire it now. The printing was done by mamemarquees and is absolutely SPECTACULAR. I wish these pictures could do their printing justice. I've been struggling to get accurate images. Apparently mamemarquees printing is capable of a wider color gamut than my swanky digital camera. When I take pictures under overly warm tungsten light I get a pretty accurate hue to the blues, but the colors wash out and look milky. When I take pictures outside in the sunlight I get better saturation and contrast, but the blues look too cyan. So... just picture the blue values from the inside shots with the vibrant saturated look of the outdoor shots and you'll get a better idea of how it looks in person.

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