Mission Control Project: 5 years on, what to do with the leftovers?

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DrewKaree:

--- Quote from: Pixelhugger on December 08, 2005, 07:04:27 pm ---
The cherry will get no stain.

--- End quote ---

Go with an amber shellac. That'll get that nice warm color right from jump. You might even like the walnut with only shellac. That coloring only looks uneven because there's no finish on it. Once you lay a finish on, even a coat of poly for instance, the whole look of walnut will change dramatically. You might like it with just straight shellac.

If you've got your mind set on the ebony look, I'd suggest a dye rather than a stain. It'll look "deeper" than a stain would once your finish is on.

Grab a scrap of walnut from somewhere and spend the time testing these things out. Unfortunately they don't just sell little cans of the crap you'll be using, but $30-40 spent to test out how things will look will be money well spent in the end, yes?

Pixelhugger:

--- Quote ---Titebond makes a slower-setting glue you could use.
--- End quote ---

Pixelhugger:

--- Quote ---If you've got your mind set on the ebony look, I'd suggest a dye rather than a stain.
--- End quote ---

DrewKaree:

--- Quote from: Pixelhugger on December 08, 2005, 07:23:09 pm ---
--- Quote ---Titebond makes a slower-setting glue you could use.
--- End quote ---

I'll look for that.

--- End quote ---

It's the bottle with the green tip and label. I know there's blue, and red as well, but the green gives a longer open time.

--- Quote ---
I'm particularly concerned about timing during the final cab glue up. The only other "large" woodworking project I've done was a corner fish tank stand. Glue up on that was hectic enough. I'm concerned that with all the interior parts and the massive/heavy sides, that positioning and clamping is gonna be tough to do in 5 or 10 minutes. I'll probably have to place the sides on separate furniture dollys in order to pull them "easily" together during clamping. It's gonna be craaaaazy.

--- End quote ---

Something you might consider is using a biscuit cutter. I know you used one for other stuff like fastening some pieces together already, but for larger assemblies, I don't throw a biscuit in there for structural use, it's to help with alignment. Pre-glue a biscuit into one side to further help with final assembly. Mebbe invest in a glue bottle with a roller head to help you lay it out better too, or a few of those disposable chintzy metal-handled brushes

The "primer" coat of glue will help too. You'll have more open time with the regular glue because it won't be being wicked away as quickly. Test it out on some scrap. Prime one piece first and then throw glue on both test scraps. You'll find the glue doesn't seem to disappear as quickly.

nostrebor:
1. the glue up and the bull nose look great! It appears no flames were used... true? I really think that you will like the acrylic for your CPO in the long term. It is more difficult to scratch than Polycarbonate, and cheaper to replace if you do ;)

2. If you like working with Yellow woodworkers glue, but want more open time, use white elmers type glue. It is exactly the same glue as the yellow, without the accelerators that are in the yellow.
I like the white with MDF, because it is easy to clean, you can use alot to offset the super suction of MDF, and it stays open for quite a long time. Same rules apply to real woods, but you have even more time because the wood does not absorb it (typically) as fast as MDF.

3. Can you do a few "sub" glue ups? I glue my interior pieces into assemblies, and let them dry. Then to one side, let it dry. Then glue that assembly to the other side. If you are using dados, it is pretty easy to insure that all the pieces will go together square and snug. Just do a dry fit first.

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