| Main > Project Announcements |
| crosbred900's Analog Xbox360 Control Panel - DONE! |
| << < (5/8) > >> |
| BadMouth:
I just can't seem to make major progress on anything lately, but I'm still chipping away at it. I'm trying to keep it fairly light in case crossbreed900 wants something attached to the side so he can pick it up by his wrists instead of having to gets someone to help. So I'm using 1/2" MDF on the sides, 1/4" on the bottom, and keeping it fairly thin. The top will be glued on and the bottom will be removeable, similar to an x-arcade. The base should fit between the armrests of his chair if need be, but the top will overhang. Instead of routing out areas of 3/4" MDF and covering my shed in mdf dust, I decided to cut the top out of 1/4" mdf and glue it to a 1/2" layer that has the areas for the controls cut out. The mounting points on the ALPS joysticks are tiny diameter holes on the edges. I was concerned about the durability of them, so the plan is to notch out the MDF so that the body of the joystick is wedged in there tight. The joystick bodies are 1" tall, so two layers of 1/2" MDF will come up even with the bottom of them. Then I plan to make a metal mounting plate with holes to put screws into the base of the joystick and into the surrounding MDF. |
| AGarv:
Thanks for the updates, I've been following this thread for a while! Did you try temp mounting the analog joysticks to see how they feel? |
| BadMouth:
--- Quote from: AGarv on May 08, 2013, 02:37:15 pm ---Thanks for the updates, I've been following this thread for a while! Did you try temp mounting the analog joysticks to see how they feel? --- End quote --- Not really. From messing around with them outside of the CP, I can tell they are going to have very light spring action, about the same or lighter than a stock Sanwa JLF spring. It is still enough that the joystick quickly returns to center when let go, even with the added weight of the extended shafts and bat tops. Moving along the axis feels a tiny bit lighter than moving both axis at the same time, but you really have to be concentrating on how the joystick feels to notice it. I'm hoping to get a couple hours free to work on it tomorrow. |
| BadMouth:
The analog sticks lean over much farther than standard joysticks. I had to angle the joystick hole. Drilling it out big enough would make it larger than the joystick base and dustwashers aren't an option. I had planned on using stick-on Dayton vinyl on everything, but when I rounded the edges with a random orbital sander it rounded the bottom corners also, so there was no chance of it laying right. So I went with my old go-to treatment: rustoleum bedliner with clearcoat overtop. I was running out, so I just used plain black paint on the inside. Using Dayton stick-on vinyl on the top. We're not messing with artwork this round. I've taken too long to get this done already and there might be something that needs changed. I remember a member here mentioning that they wrapped the vinyl on around the side to the t-molding slot. I was afraid of the edges peeling, so I went that route too. Analog joystick bracket I had to throw it together to see how it would look. I had the red t-molding laying around. I had some black, but it was scuffed up. :-\ It's got a fair amount of overhang on the front, but I wanted enough space there that crossbreed's hands had room to rest. The standard joystick is just propped up from underneath. It still needs a bracket made. The CP will also have two 2.5mm jacks on the back so a bite switch can be hooked up to the left or right trigger. I tried to hammer the jacks in, but had drilled the holes too small, so those aren't in yet either. The jack housings aren't long enough to extend all the way through the mdf, so I'm paranoid about them pulling out. Guess I'll epoxy them. Hopefully I'll get it wired and wrapped up tomorrow. |
| crossbred900:
That looks awesome. :applaud: |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |