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A DIY push-pull spinner

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xefned:

DIY push-pull spinner.

Starting with the "QuickSpin" plans from the Project Arcade CD-Rom, I'm planning to add a spring to make it bounce back and a couple of microswitches for the up and down positions. To keep it simple, I'll let the encoder wheel ride up and down as the knob is pushed and pulled and widen the normal gap between the LED and detector so the wheel doesn't touch anything. I've drawn it out on paper and I don't see why it won't work.

I'll document it here for future generations of mad planets aficionados.

PL1:
So you're using the encoder wheel to press the microswitches?

My earlier post on this topic still applies.

You might be better off having the entire spinner assembly move up and down instead of just the knob/shaft/encoder wheel.  That way, there are less problems like the variable gap in the optics,  the friction between the encoder wheel and the microswitches when you push/pull and turn at the same time, or the encoder wheel snapping due to a heavy push.

Good luck with your build.   :cheers:


Scott

xefned:

--- Quote from: PL1 on October 15, 2012, 01:10:40 am ---So you're using the encoder wheel to press the microswitches?

Good luck with your build.   :cheers:

--- End quote ---

LOL!  You crack me up.   :lol

Don't worry, your earlier post was well-heeded. Studied even. Activating the switches with the encoder wheel is a hella no-no. That's just asking for trouble.  A major design goal of this project is to avoid those less-robust construction methods I see in other DIY designs - like rubber bands, super glue, coat hangers, etc. (No offense to the chaps who employed them and shared their designs; I'm just going for low maintenance - build it and forget it.) But still keep it cheap. Man am I high maintenance or what?

My real stumbling block is finding a proper encoder wheel. It would be nice to find a pre-manufactured metal encoder wheel with a bajillion teeth.

The only thing I can find is this 75¢ plastic trackball replacement wheel from groovy. It's low tooth count appears to have worked in the QuickSpin design. But I imagine it requires tweaking the sensitivity in Mame to get good response, and probably still won't cut it for games requiring a high-pulse count per revolution.

PL1:

--- Quote from: xefned on October 15, 2012, 12:21:32 pm ---My real stumbling block is finding a proper encoder wheel. It would be nice to find a pre-manufactured metal encoder wheel with a bajillion teeth.

--- End quote ---

I used a high resolution laser gaming mouse to make a pinball shooter (see sig) that could be adapted to a spinner.  You might even be able to use an older 20 IPS (inches per second) optical mouse that can handle ~13.3 revolutions per second on a 3/8" shaft. (~1.5" circumference)

The laser can read either the shaft like the shooter does or an attached flat wheel.


Scott

xefned:

--- Quote from: PL1 on October 15, 2012, 01:31:50 pm ---I used a high resolution laser gaming mouse to make a pinball shooter (see sig) that could be adapted to a spinner.  You might even be able to use an older 20 IPS (inches per second) optical mouse that can handle ~13.3 revolutions per second on a 3/8" shaft. (~1.5" circumference)

--- End quote ---

Cool, I'll rip up a few old-school mice and see what I find.
I plan to set aside some time to read through your DIY pinball wizard thread in it's entirety. I love all the details.

I photoshoped up my drawing.

DIY push-pull spinner concept drawing
Measurements are rough estimates, based on parts found in McMaster-Carr catalog. Design is untested. (for now anyway.)

The little boxy things with nubs are supposed to represent microswitches–vague, nebulous, dreamlike microswitches with little basis in reality...  Pretend like they are much closer to the large-diameter washer, and can be activated with ~2mm deviation in either direction.

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