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| Sega Blast City Revival - Done |
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| Paladin:
--- Quote from: JoeB on June 19, 2012, 01:19:27 am ---This is important because if you don't have a load on the PSU, while it's on, it will burn it out! (common problem with people running MAME in their cabs, and using the old JAMMA PSU to power some lights in the cab with no PCB.. the PSU's burned out!) --- End quote --- I've heard this as well, but I've been running my Blast City with a Dreamcast and Xbox 360 and haven't burned up the supply yet. I swap between the consoles and PCB's and so far no problems. I don't know if I'm just lucky, or if some switchers are OK with no load. |
| dgame:
I don’t think the PSU load issue applies to the Blast City. I have seen posts and videos of people with Xbox 360, Dreamcast, etc. plugged in straight to the VGA and using the built in PSU. Forum member ‘clutch’ has MAME in a Blast City: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=35810.msg1162634#msg1162634 Almost 1 year later . . . http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=117213.msg1241673#msg1241673 For the NAC: This person made a RCA adapter to get sound into the New Astro City: http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11017 Not all NAC’s have amps: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?208224-Q-sound-from-RCAs-in-CPS2-boards-in-New-Astro-City So the external amp solution may already be the best for the NAC: http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15075 The Blast City speaker grills are metal and looking at them closely they should be able to be knocked back into shape and place. If not then it’s remove, reshape, and re-glue. |
| Paladin:
I also installed an amp in my NAC (since sold). I did pretty much the same thing as that link, wire a connector to the speakers so I didn't hack the original wiring then added an amp. Worked great. |
| dgame:
Update: After a good cleaning I adjusted the AD-81P coin selector (US 25C) to also accept my .984 BYOAC tokens using this guide: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/AD-81P_Coin_Acceptor The AD-81P only needed the first three adjustments to also accept tokens. The third screw is the trickiest to adjust but it ended up being about a 1mm move to the left for both US quarters and .984 tokens to be valid. The adjustments should be tested with the coin selector completely level as I think the third screw is a part of the “Lean Stopper” that prevents acceptance of coins when the machine is tilted. |
| GIZMOGAMES:
you gotta figure out how to wire that gun back up m8 lol that would be awsome :) i love that control layout too sweet :) sweet as candy haha |
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