Build an OND designed cab 'Metropolis'

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GibsonRiddler:
Would love to see the Heavy Metal theme. Was also thinking about using this design for a fighters cab that I had been contemplating building for awhile. Unfortunately work is getting in the way so everything is on hold for awhile.

Can't wait for new updates it passes the time at work, that and trying to convince the bosses to use the cnc machine for other purposes other than work related stuff.

EvilNuff:

--- Quote from: leapinlew on March 07, 2012, 12:47:01 pm ---the curve you have in there will be difficult for many home wood workers to pull off.
...

--- End quote ---

I am a bit late to the party but first great idea Ond! I am dying to see more!

Leapinlew, actually curves are really easy with a router for home woodworkers. All that's needed is some direction on how to create the curve. There are some pretty easy and simple techniques to do curves with a router.

Ond:
Thanks for the feedback guys, I will give the Heavy Metal theme further thought down the track.

The Back Panel and door......

Using the same method we used for the first sheet of 4 x 8 3/4", cut the Back Panel as per the cutting plan from the second 4 x 8 sheet.
Mark with a pencil the cut-out section shown below using the measurements I've shown. Then make a cut-out in this panel using a circular saw and a saw fence.
Once the saw cuts are made we will need to finish cutting each inside corner with a Jigsaw.

Next using our straight edge guide and clamps route a rebate along each edge of the cut-out. Set the router bit to cut 1/2" deep and clamp the guide so that the rebate is 9/32" wide.
This will allow us to fit a door cut from 1/2" MDF.

Pre-drill the back panel and the support braces at the points shown, remember to over drill each screw hole in the back panel (I use a larger drill bit) to allow for counter sunk screws. We won't be gluing the Back Panel in just yet, just test fit with screws only.

Cut a door from 1/2" MDF as per the sizing shown. Fit the door to the cut-out with long narrow hinges.

Next up .... fitting the Bezel and Marquee panels.

edekoning:
Any reason why you chose to screw from the outside through each panel? Would it not be easier to screw from the inside till 2/3 inside each panel? That would also save you from filling/sanding all those screw holes. I'm asking because I'm still debating this for my own cab.

Ond:

--- Quote from: edekoning on May 03, 2012, 09:59:45 am ---Any reason why you chose to screw from the outside through each panel? Would it not be easier to screw from the inside till 2/3 inside each panel? That would also save you from filling/sanding all those screw holes. I'm asking because I'm still debating this for my own cab.

--- End quote ---

A fair enough question, well my main reason is that's what I'm used to, filling slightly countersunk screws and sanding flush prior to painting. If you like the cabinets shape don't let that stop you building it though. You could instead screw into the panels from the inside wherever you prefer. My thinking is probably also because I prefer to to drive the screw right through the available thickness of a panel for maximum strength. Since it's being glued as well this is not that important. One final reason is the trade off of filling and sanding versus the ease of using a drill to power drive in screws from the outside of the cab. Screws located close to inside edges can be a pain to access with power tools especially.

Putting a hole in a panel is not a sin! ;D In fact here and there I'll be using Bondo methods to fill and refine surfaces prior to painting that can really make a difference in the finished look of the cab. Some people hesitate to use Bondo as a construction material but honestly after a mild learning curve the stuff is the magic! To back up my words I'll happily provide a video/tutorial in this project thread of the filling and finish technique I'm suggesting.

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