Build an OND designed cab 'Metropolis'

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HyperHautian:

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Putting a hole in a panel is not a sin! ;D In fact here and there I'll be using Bondo methods to fill and refine surfaces prior to painting that can really make a difference in the finished look of the cab. Some people hesitate to use Bondo as a construction material but honestly after a mild learning curve the stuff is the magic! To back up my words I'll happily provide a video/tutorial in this project thread of the filling and finish technique I'm suggesting.
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I agree with the Bondo method. I have used it when building slot-car tracks and also building speaker cabinets. It is not really that hard to work with. I want to build this and I will be using Bondo!

Here are a couple of pics (the only ones I could find quickly) that show some Bondo work.

The First pic is about 1/2 through the "Bondo process"... Some of it is sanded, some not... If you have an orbital sander, it's easy peasy!

The second pic shows what it looks like afterwards. By the way.. that was my first try at using bondo.

What you don't see in the pic, is just how smooth a finish you get when using bondo. I have not built a cabinet yet, but I think I will bondo the entire CP (I will not be using vinyl at first, as money is tight).

Ond:
Nice work on the slot car track! Yeah an orbital sander should really be added to the list of must have tools and certainly makes flat surface sanding much easier. Funny you should mention using Bondo for loud speaker building, this is another area I've also used Bondo on with great results. I've been tempted a few times to share that but eh, wrong forum I guess. I've been so busy with non arcade related stuff, what a pain having no time is, if I'm envious of anything it's the time some people have. Anyway, more on this project soon as I can.

Woodshop Flunky:

--- Quote from: Ond on May 08, 2012, 05:09:28 pm ---.. I've been so busy with non arcade related stuff, what a pain having no time is, if I'm envious of anything it's the time some people have.

--- End quote ---

+1 I use to be a nurse, and had 4 days off a week... and was single. Now I've got a desk job, wife, kids, and about 3hrs a week to take on projects. :dunno

Ond:

--- Quote from: Woodshop Flunky on May 09, 2012, 01:50:38 pm ---
--- Quote from: Ond on May 08, 2012, 05:09:28 pm ---.. I've been so busy with non arcade related stuff, what a pain having no time is, if I'm envious of anything it's the time some people have.

--- End quote ---

+1 I use to be a nurse, and had 4 days off a week... and was single. Now I've got a desk job, wife, kids, and about 3hrs a week to take on projects. :dunno

--- End quote ---

And yet you managed such great results on your project! :) The worst thing is when we had all the time in the world did we appreciate it? I was a squanderer, it must be karma in action.

Here's some more of this (I pulled the time out from somewhere).

The bezel is cut as per the cutting plan dimensions. Using a 45 degree chamfering bit the inside edges of the bezel can be edged to match the LCD screen nicely. An alternative could also be a curved or rolled over inner edge using an appropriate bit.

The next step will need to be customised to whatever wide screen 23” LCD you obtain. The casing edge around each brand may vary in width. Lay the LCD Screen face down on the rear of the bezel, use a set square to square it up with the cut out or (being careful) use a clamp with rubber pad or cloth and clamp the monitor in place checking its centered on the cut-out as you do. Then trace around the edge of it with a pencil. Use the pencil mark as guide for the rebate width. A snug fit is desirable but not essential. We’ll be using some small bent aluminium strips to secure the monitor into place down the track.

Having edged and rebated the bezel we can now work the next few steps. They are in a numbered order because each component basically provides the positioning reference for the piece that follows it.

Step 1
Fix the CP Back Panel using support braces as shown. No exact measurements needed here for braces just make them as suggested in the diagram. The CP Back Panel should sit flush with the edge of each side panel.

Step 2
Screw & glue support braces onto the rear of the bezel as shown. (Drive the screws in from the side you prefer). Using the top of the CP Back Panel as reference and the edges of the cab sides fix the bezel into position as indicated. The top of the CP Rear Panel will become a resting place for the bezel glass later on. Edit -note, I've mistakenly refered to the bezel glass as Marquee glass in the diagram, i'll correct this when I get a moment. Now fixed.

Step 3
Next fit the lower Marquee Panel into place using the top of the bezel as reference. The angle of this panel is not super important but it will determine the height of the marquee later on.

Next we’ll get started on the CP.

bkenobi:
Having a router with a 45° bit would have been a lot easier than my method for cutting the retainer bar/lower bezel piece on my main cab. I used a circular saw set at an angle and used a guide board to keep the cut straight. It worked...after the 3rd or 4th attempt. In my case, I needed to cut an angle on both the top and bottom in opposite directions which made things a big challenge (primarily since I didn't know which order to make the cuts). A router would have made this far too easy!

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