Building basics?

[yaksplat]

Check out amazon.com for the bits

[walterg74]

Check out amazon.com for the bits

Yep,already did...

I assume these will do? (depending in the t-molding of course):

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-63-100-16-Inch-Cutter-4-Inch/dp/B0002TUCRA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337601927&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-63-106-32-Inch-Cutter-16-Inch/dp/B0002TUCSE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1337602062&sr=8-2

[yaksplat]

yeah, that's the 1/16" cutter that I've used on three cabinets.

[kahlid74]

Amazon should have your countersink bits too!

[walterg74]

Amazon should have your countersink bits too!

Right on...

I'll either buy the one, or this set right here to have more options:

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2535-Piece-Countersink-Assortment/dp/B0000225OU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1337611531&sr=8-4

[walterg74]

Countersink bit set and slot cuter bits are on the way

I'll have to wait til july 1st to get them, but still many things to work on until then with what I already have. If the frikkin rain ever stops that is... 

[walterg74]

So as I keep reading while I wait for the weekend (and the rain to go away...), here's a question for the woodworking gurus...

I see that the basics of getting the sides is to draw out one piece, cut it out, use it as a template to draw the second side and then cut -it- out, and then clamp them together and make them equal.

Now in this last step of getting them to be equal, is sanding them the normal way, or is routing with a flush bit better??

[Woodshop Flunky]

So as I keep reading while I wait for the weekend (and the rain to go away...), here's a question for the woodworking gurus...

I see that the basics of getting the sides is to draw out one piece, cut it out, use it as a template to draw the second side and then cut -it- out, and then clamp them together and make them equal.

Now in this last step of getting them to be equal, is sanding them the normal way, or is routing with a flush bit better??

Unless you're going to be taking lessons from Mr. Miyagi... use a flush bit.   It will give better result for a fraction of the effort.

[walterg74]

So as I keep reading while I wait for the weekend (and the rain to go away...), here's a question for the woodworking gurus...

I see that the basics of getting the sides is to draw out one piece, cut it out, use it as a template to draw the second side and then cut -it- out, and then clamp them together and make them equal.

Now in this last step of getting them to be equal, is sanding them the normal way, or is routing with a flush bit better??

Unless you're going to be taking lessons from Mr. Miyagi... use a flush bit.   It will give better result for a fraction of the effort.

Well, kinda hard.. you know, with him dying and all...

Ok, so does that mean I have to take intoaccound the wood I'll "shave off" and make the side a tiny bit larger all around, or is the flush bit a really really thin blade that shaves the tiniest fraction off the wood..?

[walker_tr9]

I have an unrelated question, but it fits in this thread.  Do I need to use a drill press to do the control panel?  I really don't want to buy one just for that one task.

[Woodshop Flunky]

So as I keep reading while I wait for the weekend (and the rain to go away...), here's a question for the woodworking gurus...

I see that the basics of getting the sides is to draw out one piece, cut it out, use it as a template to draw the second side and then cut -it- out, and then clamp them together and make them equal.

Now in this last step of getting them to be equal, is sanding them the normal way, or is routing with a flush bit better??

Unless you're going to be taking lessons from Mr. Miyagi... use a flush bit.   It will give better result for a fraction of the effort.

Well, kinda hard.. you know, with him dying and all...

Ok, so does that mean I have to take intoaccound the wood I'll "shave off" and make the side a tiny bit larger all around, or is the flush bit a really really thin blade that shaves the tiniest fraction off the wood..?

What I've done with similar jobs is to trace the second part using the first.  The width of the pencil tip alone will make the second part a tiny bit larger all around.  When I then rough cut the second part with my jigsaw, I just make sure to leave the pencil line.  You should have plenty of room now to use the router as you described earlier.
 

[walterg74]

What I've done with similar jobs is to trace the second part using the first.  The width of the pencil tip alone will make the second part a tiny bit larger all around.  When I then rough cut the second part with my jigsaw, I just make sure to leave the pencil line.  You should have plenty of room now to use the router as you described earlier.
 

Hmm ok that sounds reasonable... I guess I can try it out with a couple of scraps first to see if I can get the hang of it...

Are you familiar with Koenigs cabs? Specifically the "VertiCade", which doesn't have t-molding but rather the wood of the sides is "rounded".. is that done woth the round bit on both sides, or some other way?

[Woodshop Flunky]

Are you familiar with Koenigs cabs? Specifically the "VertiCade", which doesn't have t-molding but rather the wood of the sides is "rounded".. is that done woth the round bit on both sides, or some other way?

I'm also curious how those edges were achieved.  I've done that sort of thing before using a round-over bit, but it's tricky... when routing the second side, the bearing doesn't have anything to ride against.

[DNA Dan]

I believe this is done using a template for the bearing or without a bearing altogether.  http://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-019-1-Inch-Convex-Router/dp/B00004T7LY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337837360&sr=8-1

The cut is made across the whole edge in one pass.

[walterg74]

I believe this is done using a template for the bearing or without a bearing altogether.  http://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-019-1-Inch-Convex-Router/dp/B00004T7LY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337837360&sr=8-1

The cut is made across the whole edge in one pass.

Awesome! I was looking for something precisely like that!

So this says it's 1", how do you work it when the wood is thinner, like the usual 3/4" or 5/8" ppl use, or in my case the 15 mm ones?  

Edit: also, I see that particular one would be no good for me since the shank is 1/2", and the router I have takes 1/4", 6mm and 8mm bits.

Still I found this one like it:

http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-23158-32-Inch-Carbide/dp/B000PU0MFI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b

Edit II: so what would happen if I tried to use a roundover bit twice? would I achieve the same result, or would it on the contrary look like crap?

[darthpaul]

I have an unrelated question, but it fits in this thread.  Do I need to use a drill press to do the control panel?  I really don't want to buy one just for that one task.

No you don't, a hand drill, some spade bits and a 3 1/2" hole saw for a trackball and you are good.

[walterg74]

Well, started mini step at a time... Drawing the plans onto my first MDF piece... Did all the lines and small curves, and now only one last curve to go: trying to find a practical way to have a stencil/template for a R675,1 mm curve   

Guess I'll be moving to project announcements soon (but still leave basics questions on this thread).

 

[walterg74]

Lo and behold... This thread was not for nothing!

I have indeed started my first project, and the thread can be found here:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=120485.0

I'll still keep asking stupid questions here though

Thanks!!!