Arcade Collecting > Pinball
F2K Preorder Notice
Xiaou2:
First, Ive seen their plastics both on my calibrated monitor, AND IN PERSON,
at the Allentown show.
2nd, even if your monitor is not calibrated well... and you shift the values of All the colors at once... then they still all match. They are just darker or lighter.
However, if one color is seriously off due to improper matching, it stands out. It stands out no matter what you do to your monitor. It stands out in the game like a Blue LED pointed right at your eye.
Heres a simple Pictorial Example:
On the left side, we have a group of colors arranged by their Color and Value.
The color being from left to right, and value from V1 to V5.
We will ignore saturation and other aspects to be simple. Also, we will call the entire row of colors in a value, a "Family".
In example A & C, we can see they are entire families, and thus all the Values match.
However, in Example B, the first and 7th colors are Not from the same value levels... and so you can see that they stick out at bit. Especially when compared to A & C.
Example D shows the same, and shows the main family (green line), & the alternate values (orange lines).
And finally, example E, which is much easier to notice due to the extreme levels of value changes.
Of course, this is only a simple example to do with value, and does not even touch on the much more advanced aspects.
Edit:
If you play with various art programs on the PC, such as Photoshop, you can see a section of both a color wheel... and a color Swatch section. One thing you start to realize, is that picking the right colors is almost a mathematical thing.
In windows, there are 3 main colors: Red Green Blue. And each color can have 16 values. If we take a single dot (pixel), it could be: 0,0,0 which would equal Black. OR 16,16,16 which would be white. For Red, it would be 16,0,0. To make pink: 16,10,10.
This is important, because when you arrange a swatch palette, you often would be altering the colors values by a mathematical formula. For example, changing each color by adding +2. IE: 2,4,6,8. If you made a mistake... you could spot that color because it shows up against the rest of the colors.
Its much like Music. If you play the wrong note in a sequence, its going to be noticeable. Music is also very mathematical btw.
In the next picture, we can see various color swatch palettes in photoshop.
As we can see, the bottom left corner is a Pastel palette, and looks completely different to the bottom right Palette. If you did a Pastel painting, and dropped a color from the other bottom right palette in there.. it might look very out of place.
(unless the palette is very wide in contrast and depth)
Xiaou2:
So, heres one of their BK2K plastic sets:
Top left, you can see the Purple they chose for the towers, is way too light. Its more of a Pastel than a Royal Purple.
Their excuse? UV fade. Wrong:
Top Right = Proof of nearly no UV fade on a super old plastic set. The Left one is the Older Original plastic that has typical yellowing from the plastic exposed to UV. The one on the right, is an ORIGINAL NOS plastic. You can tell the thing has been kept sealed up in something, as theres no plastic yellowing, no scratches or fading of any kind. No photoshop tricks here. Both plastics were set on top of a piece of white inkjet paper and photographed. No image cleanup or shifting was performed. Only cropping.
Then of course, we have missing windows, shading on towers missing, and even shading on the castle wall bricks missing. I believe I counted like 12 errors on this single plastic. Insane to be that far off on mistakes.
Of course, the real problem is when you try to install these, and see that none of the new colors match your playfield or backglass artwork.
Its granted, that no color match is going to be Perfect. However, what has been done here is that the person has tried to make it look like he wants it to look. Basically, he is artistically altered it. Which is why it doesnt match the game.
If he had noted the exact value differences on an original set, he could have applied that to his new palette, and gotten results that at least looked close. Instead, he chose to either eyeball it, and or just chose a color he thought it should be. So in the end, its absolute and utter Garbage.
edit:
Btw - If you compare the two largest towers, note that they have changed the line art. The thicknesses and even directions of the lines.
Why is this a problem? Line direction is used to create texture, such as woodgrain. In this example, the roof shingling should all be at the same angle. They are not.
The line thickness is this picture, is used to create shading. Such as the middle of the tower.. where its most dark. The thicker black lines make the tower look darker. Where as the new version has thin lines... which isnt correct. This is because he has no idea of even the most basic of artistic principles... such as cross hatch and line based shading. Its just sickening to see such butchery by a clueless noob.
TOK:
Thanks for the pics Xiaou2, that was exactly the kind of example I was looking for. The loss of the colors in the tower art definitely hurts the depth of the art. I still think I'm going to stay with my playfield preorder because its much simpler art than Black Knight, but wanted to see actual examples of the errors.
ChadTower:
--- Quote from: pinballjim on April 02, 2011, 10:13:20 pm ---If you make a repro part that's more expensive that decent originals, and collectors can spot it's a repro part from a mile away, what's the point?
--- End quote ---
I don't shop my games to impress other collectors. I shop them to my own level of satisfaction. Even on my permanent keeper games I don't care about differences like that purple shown above. If I sell a game with repro parts I sell the originals with it anyway. Other times I'm working on games with either missing parts or like my BK which had all the plastics but half of them were broken. I could dredge up originals but on top of the brand new cleared playfield even an original plastic sometimes stands out like an overcooked shrinky dink. The yellowing of the plastic just looks bad and you're not going to find non-aged plastics unless it's NOS still in the bag. I have a NOS plastics set for my Rack 'Em Up waiting to go on, in an opened bag, and even they are yellowed. In that case it will work fine because I'll be putting in a NOS playfield once I learn to clear them. The yellow/aging will match. For whatever reason the color difference in ink doesn't bother me but a difference in aging does. :dunno
Xiaou2:
I also shop my games for my own satisfaction... and personally, I cant be satisfied when parts are sub-par. Id rather try to make them myself than to pay for someones else craptastic job.
This is a remade slingshot plastic. It isnt a CPR remake. However, it shows how a poor color can really ruin the look of a pin.
Its even worse looking when you see the entire machine with it on. It was a big waste of my money.
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