Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Robotron Cabaret
opt2not:
--- Quote from: Spyridon on July 26, 2010, 08:25:14 am ---
--- Quote from: opt2not on July 25, 2010, 04:09:26 pm ---If you can do it yourself, why not just go with Option 3?
Rebuilding Williams PS's is pretty straight forward...it's just time really. But then, if time = money, then I guess sending it off to Dokert would be worth it. It's up to you though. I'm of the opinion that it's always better to do it yourself.
--- End quote ---
I don't mind doing it myself, but my thought was if I had to pay for the $35 deluxe kit, I could just send it out for the same price and have it done for me.
--- End quote ---
In retrospec, I probably could have done the same. But I want to learn as much as I can about this cab, for any future maintenance I would have to do.
I just finished my rebuild last night! It wasn't too bad, the only thing that gave me a hard time was replacing the headers with higher quality ones. I had to be careful not to damage any of the traces. When I disconnected and pulled the PS board out I noticed that a bunch of the headers were pretty burnt up, which merited the swap. I'll post some pictures of the before and after so you see what I mean. With a completely rebuilt PS, this should fix my resetting problem! *fingers crossed*...it should also last me another 30 years too!
opt2not:
Here are some pictures of my power supply rebuild...
Before:
After:
The only cap i didn't replace is the big orange one, because the cap that came with the kit doesn't have the +/- connection prongs on either ends like the old one. The new cap is like the others, with the prongs at one end. Anyone have any idea of what I should do to use the new cap? Is there a mod I'm supposed to do?
One of the headers was badly burnt, and probably the culprit:
Transformer block cleaned up, new power cord with grounding prong installed:
....and the moment of truth?
SHE LIVES AGAIN!
Initially it did some funny things on boot-up, then it seemed to sort itself out. I'm wondering if the caps needed to warm up first, because works fine now after a power cycle. I went through an entire game without it resetting, and have had it running in attract mode for the last 6 hours. Looks like it's back to working condition! *phew* ...and all it took was a rebuild.
I'm going to go around and check voltages to make sure all is well.
RayB:
Just run a wire of appropriate guage and length to install the new orange replacement. Feed one leg through one of the board holes, so it's secure and the other one jumpered with the wire.
Paladin:
Nice job getting the game up and running!
Using A Radial Cap To Replace An Axial Cap from Bob Roberts website:
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/axial.html
Q*Bert_OP:
Great Plains Electronics has the axial version of the capacitor you need.
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