The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: evitagen on October 26, 2009, 11:56:07 am
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I've began(very slowly) working on a custom Vewlix cabinet. I'm in no rush to finish this so it's great that I can take as long as I want on it.
I've cut the side pieces and glued them together. 4 pieces of 3/4" MDF. 2 of them glued together to give a total thickness of 1.5":
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n238/idzen/Vewlix-Sides.jpg)
There they are. Okay, so far so good. I've pretty much researched every custom Vewlix cabinet ever built so far and only 1 of them have Beveled the sides correctly. And when I say correctly I don't mean they did anything wrong, I just mean they did not bevel them to the exact degree's of the original Vewlix.
Here is an example of the sides CORRECTLY beveled:
(http://images4.hiboox.com/images/3608/diapo1b3ecc803b05514ea289b2da050a9322.jpg?26)
(http://images4.hiboox.com/images/3608/diapof58d7cd4e45ff88af6b2cd4e6c64d559.jpg?25)
As you can tell, one side(first picture) is heavily beveled(65.3 degrees, or 24.7 degree's depending on which angle you are looking at). The problem is, the biggest chamfer bit I can find for my router is 45 degree's, and the cut on it still isn't long enough to make that bevel(which is longer than 1.5"). Using a table saw doesn't help because it can only angle to 45 degree's also. Unless I'm really missing something here, I cannot figure out a simple way to make this cut.
I hope I've explained this well enough for you guys that are more knowledgeable to help me out. Thanks!
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So... cut the piece upside down using a 25 degree cut (or chamfer bit)
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So... cut the piece upside down using a 25 degree cut (or chamfer bit)
I thought of doing that, but even still the Chamfer bit at that degree has a cut that is less than 1" long.
As for doing it with a tablesaw... I've considered it but I honestly don't know the best way to do that without completely screwing up. I'm worried about slipping since I've honestly never made a cut like that before with the wood positioned like that.
Any tips?
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Unless I'm misunderstanding this, couldn't you just tilt the blade to 25° (24.7°) and pass the wood through on its edge? From the looks of that pic, it would be a little over 3/4" from the fence to the base of the blade, so there is a flat edge rather than a point.
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Unless I'm misunderstanding this, couldn't you just tilt the blade to 25° (24.7°) and pass the wood through on its edge? From the looks of that pic, it would be a little over 3/4" from the fence to the base of the blade, so there is a flat edge rather than a point.
Not a bad idea, I just worry about it messing up that way because I've never really fed wood into a tablesaw quite like that. I may just stick with the 45's because it's so much easier to do with a router table and apparently nobody really notices the difference.
I think I may could pull it off on the sides, but beveling the rounded top piece the same way just seems like it would be damn near impossible for my level of craftsmanship.
Thanks for the help guys! I'm detailing the process with lots of pictures and explanations but I'm moving really slow so I'm not going to start a thread for it yet.
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If you're set on using a router table, try THIS (http://www.acetoolonline.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Amana+47202+BEVEL+BIT+25+DEGREE+1%2F4+SHANK+Router)