The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: endrien on August 20, 2009, 09:49:29 pm
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So I just got a tekken 3 cab and it works/looks fine except the picture is a bit curved in and it spazzes out sometimes. Please don't tell me Its a cap kit, that would be a pain in the ass.
Bent:
(http://i32.tinypic.com/294nifr.jpg)
Spazz:
(http://i26.tinypic.com/22ccqf.jpg)
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What make and model monitor is in there ?
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1st pic indicates a vertical deflection defect . this symptom type usually caused by low vcc to the vert output ic or defective ic.
2nd indicates instability of Hosc. which , can also be a low vcc issue.
so , there is a strong likelyhood that there are defective 'lytics present.
time to hone your desolder/soldering skills ;D
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didn't terribly understand what you were talking about with the abbreviations and etc :P, could you sum it up? And I can solder pretty well I just don't want to mess with discharging the monitor..
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I've seen the "spazz" symptom like yours just recently on a K7400...... but that doesn't mean squat without knowing what YOUR monitor is.
qrz is referring to low voltages in the vertical and horizontal oscillation circuits, could be caused by bad capacitors, could be bad IC's, could be bad diodes, could be a number of things.
But knowing what your monitor model is might narrow it down to common failures of said monitor.
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On the back of the monior it says:
G-A68ACT00X
There are some knobs with vhold,hhold,vpos, etc but they didn't fix any of the problems.
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On the back of the monior it says:
G-A68ACT00X
That's just a TUBE number....... all it tells us is it's a 25".
Look for identifying labels on the frame or the circuit board chassis itself.
Or take a pic of the chassis, might be able to narrow it down from there.
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(http://i26.tinypic.com/so9vuo.jpg)
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looks like a kortek/sharp image or A-one chassis
as for the spazzing out-can you explain that some more-i can see what looks like a possible frame foldover on the second pic
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its like the picture squeezes inwards and a squiggly line jostles about.
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the first thing to look for is bad solder joints on the chassis and maybe think of checking out the caps
i am also wondering whether this is infact a prelude to the flyback breaking down
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I may be picking up a few monitors as well so we'll see. I hope this one is a simple fix.
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I really want to get this fixed~
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On the board it says "AP-0428"
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First thing I would do is pull the chassis and check for bad solder joints.
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Is there any guide for making your own "high voltage probe"(Screw driver with the grounding clip). I watched the how to discharge a monitor video but Dont really know how to properly make a probe. Also is a monitor the only thing I need to worry about touching while its unplugged(Like does the transformer hold a charge as well?
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http://www.riddledtv.com/repair/journal/DischargeCRT/
Once you discharge it, just stay clear of the hole in the tube.... that's the part that'll get ya.
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By hole do you mean where the place you discharge from?
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Yes, the hole where the anode attaches into the tube.
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the metal frame on the back of the monitor is grounded correct?
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It's not "grounded", no. What you're doing when you discharge the tube is dissipating the charge within.
Just get a screwdriver and some wire, bare the ends of the wire, wrap one end around the screwdriver and clip on the other end with a clothespin. Simple, quick and effective.
Or, I sell them in my store.
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I put some wire around the screw driver and and put the other end around the monitor frame and it worked fine(I'm talking about the big metal pieces coming out the back.
(http://i27.tinypic.com/33jkzrn.jpg)
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I would be reluctant to use that due to firstly the wire being very close down near to your hand, and secondly due to the black tape, the wire could become disconnected from the metal and you wouldnt be able to see.
Of course if it worked fine for you then that's great but if you make a Mk. 2 then maybe put it halfway down the handle and some see-through tape just for some piece of mind
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Well I'm scrapping this monitor anyways I think, but I coiled the wire tightly around the screwdriver, it couldnt move.
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You did just fine.
Don't scrap the monitor, at the very least give it to someone who can fix it.
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I think I found the problem with the monitor but I don't really want to bother with fixing it. I'm using a PC monitor instead atm. The cab monitor had a few corroded wires and some cold solder points. Nobody lives around here on the forums. Or anyone at all really.
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Where do you live?
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Newfoundland canada. I may or may not get around to fixing it, probably will.
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Hello,
I have an A-one AP-0428 board and missing cap #14.
I want to ask a huge favor, can you look on your board and see the value of #14 is?
here is a pic of where the location of it should be.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f2s5tnczn93rhnb/C14.JPG (https://www.dropbox.com/s/f2s5tnczn93rhnb/C14.JPG)
Thank you
so much.