The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: dkubarek on December 11, 2008, 11:55:25 pm
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This sounds crazy enough that it just might work: I know lots of people go with the authentic plexiglass coating over their control panel but I'm trying to avoid that and maybe get a nicer (but not in the authentic sense of course) finish out of it. I plan to print my design on card stock, cut and glue, then apply a million coats of polyurethane to that SOB. I'll actually do 4 coats a day all week, so about 28 thin coats. Then I'll just drill my holes and hopefully be on my way. I know epoxy will do this, but it costs a lot and I am cheap. Any reason it work work? Also, would anyone alter the method? Maybe drill then polyurethane?
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I would print a test piece out and try it, first. Will the poly make the ink bleed? Also, won't poly yellow with age?
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I'm surely going to test it. Water-based poly will age well, but your first point has be skeptical, too. I might try a paste poly to lessen the chances of bleeded, but even on photo paper, there's gotta be some bleeding.
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I'd be concerned about the wear.
Even with a ton of coats, I would think that it will wear off in areas around the joysticks and buttons. Once it wears, you can never get it back to looking good without removing all the controls, stripping it down, and recoating it.....
actually.. that's not even an option because you're plan is to coat the art directly.
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I printed mine of adhesive matte vinyl that is used for car decals.
So, if it can take harsh weather for 10+ years.. it can certainly take my gameplaying without wear.
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If it starts to wear I could lightly sand it and reapply poly. I wouldn't have to strip the controls or anything. I thought about the vinyl, but it doesn't print as nice. Still, it's a good option, especially if your design isn't photo based. It's also about 20 bucks, and I'm out of dough.
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I found a can of "glaze" used for metal, tile, paper, etc. I'm testing it now. It goes on thicker than poly and can be reapplied every 30 minutes. So far it's promising. Very clear, thick and absolutely no damage to a 300 DPI photo on photo paper. I plan to drill it this weekend and also do a few scratch tests. If all goes well, I'll give it a shot. It seems easier to fix than plexi when scratches and definitely looks better, unless you like that original look. I'll report back if it works. It's also a very cheap option. One $3 can will do your marquis, bexel, control panel and side art. Could be a good option if you want to photoshop something that includes realistic photos as opposed to graphic elements. Not saying either is better, just another option
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So, I did it. It's at least as scratch resistant as plexiglass, but I scratched the photo paper up a bit while working on it and the guy who printed it for me (for free) got a few finger prints on it. I'll post photos soon. I want to let it get some play and see how it goes.