The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: Trebeck on July 16, 2008, 05:31:11 pm
-
Hey all,
What's the best way to cut plexi for a control top?
A simple example: I have to shave off 2" from the end. Any tips and tricks to avoid cracking? Is there a type of plexi that's more durable and easier to work with or is it all the same?
-Beck
-
I used a router to cut my Plexiglas around the control panel. Very simple and cut like butter.
-
Sometime in the last several months I determined that cutting plexi-glass sucks. I tried scoring the plexi glass with a knife, and then trying to break it off but I struggled with this. Lately, (that would be today), I have been cutting .80 plexi glass with a steel cutting bit (not sure if this is important) jig saw.
I put the piece I am cutting on my make shift table, put another board on top to stabilize it and then clamp two boards together, then cut, keep a firm grip on the plexi- as I go, and going at slow to steady pace, not break neck. Be aware the piece you are cutting gets heavier and heavier as you go and can lead to cracking (which just pisses off a person.)
-
I used a router to cut my Plexiglas around the control panel. Very simple and cut like butter.
Yup, using a router with a flush trim bit is extremely easy and by far the best way to cut plexi IMO.
-
I used a router to cut my Plexiglas around the control panel. Very simple and cut like butter.
Yup, using a router with a flush trim bit is extremely easy and by far the best way to cut plexi IMO.
Thirded!
Use a double flute flush trim bit with a CE (cutting edge) slightly longer than the thickness of the plexi.
-
Thanks guys,
I was doing exactly what Clone was doing with the metal jigsaw and my plexi would spider crack all the way (small 1/2" cracks). Pissed me right off. BUT! I haven't tried the router trick. Any special bit I should look for?
-Beck
-
See my response above!
-
Strange, usually I read better than that.
God Bless those ninjas
-
I used a router to cut my Plexiglas around the control panel. Very simple and cut like butter.
Yup, using a router with a flush trim bit is extremely easy and by far the best way to cut plexi IMO.
Thirded!
Use a double flute flush trim bit with a CE (cutting edge) slightly longer than the thickness of the plexi.
I'm ready to trim my Lexan this weekend as well as cut the 3" hole for the trackball - I'm not super familiar with flush trim bits, so my question is why a "double-flute flush trim" versus the standard flush trim bit? I'll be buying from my local Rockler (rockler.com) and I see that they have about 8 different types of flush trim bit - argh.
Any helps on clearing this confusion will be appreciated?
One final Q: will the double flute flush trim bit useful for making the 3" trackball hole or do I need to make a 2nd purchase?
Thanks!
Jim
-
Why a double flute?
The short answer: because that is what 80% of the router bits in the world are, and that is what you're going to find readily available. (not trying to be a smart ass here.)
The long answer: You could use a single flute, but it will be more difficult to find "off the shelf" and the cost difference vs. a DF (double flute) will be marginal. You won't easily find a flush trim bit with more than 2 flutes. 3F bits are generally only found on solid carbide tooling, custom carbide-tipped tooling, or highly specialized carbide-tipped router bits. 4 plus flutes are generally used in the metalworking industry on solid carbide and high speed steel endmills. For this post, we will only be referring to woodworking tools and applications as metalworking is whole different animal. Contrary to popular belief, more flutes does NOT equal better edge finish; that is determined by other characteristics of the tool, mostly tool geometry. Certain bits *may* provide a better finish with more flutes, but it is not a rule of thumb. Adding flutes requires you to increase your feed (inches per minute that the bit travels through the work) and speed (rpm of spindle). The feeds and speeds required for more than 2 flutes is too fast to be safely done with a hand router. 3+ flute router bits are generally for CNC routers only. You'll also get more life out of a DF than a SF because you have double the cutting edges to wear before the tool needs sharpening. Never throw your router bits away when dull, they can be sharpened for a fraction of the cost of a new bit. The company I work for charges 4 bucks to sharpen a flush trim bit.
Hope I didn't go too tool nerd on you, these are the kinds of questions I answer on a daily basis and I can get carried away :P
Yes, you can use a flush trim bit for your trackball hole, but you'll need to bore a hole slightly larger than the diameter of your flush trim bit. Move the bit in a counterclockwise direction as you route the circle. Don't force it, but don't move too slowly either or you might get chip re-melt
As for which one to pick of the 8 or so available, that will depend on your router. If you're using a laminate router you'll need 1/4" Diameter (OD) x 1" Cutting Edge Length (CEL) x 1/4" Shank. If you're using a full size, two-handed router, you'll want a 1/2" OD x 1" CEL x 1/2" Shk. Once you determine that, eliminate all the bits with up or down shear. Now chose a bottom bearing bit and not a top bearing bit (that's a template/patternmaker bit, but I see they show up when you search "flush trim" on the Rockler site.) That should leave you with the bit you need.
Why the 1" CEL? The general rule of thumb is to use a CEL slightly longer than the thickness of your material. It will be difficult to find a flush trim bit with a CEL shorter than 1". Additionally, buying a 1" will cover most of your needs as a hobbyist, and as you wear one portion of your cutting edge, you can adjust your bit and use a "new" portion of your carbide, improving the life or your bit.
-
Okay.
But you forgot to put your answer in the form of a question... oops, wrong show.
Thanks!
Jim :applaud:
-
Thanks Chad that was a great bit of info.
-
Chadwick,
Your info helped a lot - I successfully trimmed my Lexan yesterday using the double-flute flush bit (with pilot)... I don't know why I was so worried - it worked like a charm.
Jim
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=67651.0
-
Glad it worked for you!