Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: WunderCade on December 29, 2007, 01:01:06 pm
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I moved this from PA to this thread hoping someone here can help. Cue good 'ol Kev... ;D :cheers:
Yes 1 pcb is working now ;D
Monitor works but needs a cab kit
The galaxian is back to live :notworthy:
still lots to do ::)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=67413.0;attach=91985;image)
I have that same blue-ish scan line problem (see pic) in the background of my Sanyo monitor in my DK cabinet. What causes it and how do you get rid of it? Also, like yours it doesn't go entirely across the screen it stops about 90% across like yours in that pic.
Let me know if find out how to fix that.
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That's an easy one; cap kit. 100% guaranteed.
Capped a bunch of these when I was still doing this full time; wish I'd kept track of exactly what caps were responsible for this happening.
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Thanks Peale! :cheers:
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Yeah, I have to agree with starting with a cap kit.
It should cover most of the issues you see.
Some of it may be adjustable, but would recommend starting with fresh capacitors to eliminate any questionable issues before adjusting.
Initially it looks over saturated with blue/brightness, so that may be able to be turned down with the SCREEN voltage on the flyback or the blue drive and bias pots on the neckboard.
But cap it and start from there. (since it's shifted and has other small issues)
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Thank you guys...I have put an order in with Bob.
It will be my first cap kit. I actually have two to do - WG K4625 and my Sanyo 20EZ. Both are pains in the arse so I've heard. I also had heard that a nice shortcut for guys like me with no soldering experience is to simply cut off the old caps keeping the old leads intact and simply soldering the new cap leads to the old ones.
Is that a good trick or no?
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NO .... that is harder than just pulling the whole cap out.
Amongst other "just don't do that" reasons.
Be sure to double check the positive and negative orientation on the old caps before you pull them. Some of the chassis markings can be wrong. And I suggest just pulling and replacing one cap at a time.
The only real reason those two particular chassis are considered "hard" to work on is because they are both a bit awkward to get out in order to actually work on them.
Be sure to reflow any and all questionable looking solder joints while you have them out also. Especially the vertical card header pins on that K4600. Oh, and be careful of the horizontal width coil on that 4600 as well, it's mounted off the main chassis and can be easily broken. I personally recommend just unsoldering the two leads that go to it and leaving it alone where it's at.
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Thank you guys...I have put an order in with Bob.
It will be my first cap kit. I actually have two to do - WG K4625 and my Sanyo 20EZ. Both are pains in the arse so I've heard. I also had heard that a nice shortcut for guys like me with no soldering experience is to simply cut off the old caps keeping the old leads intact and simply soldering the new cap leads to the old ones.
Is that a good trick or no?
If you are able to get a pair of cutting pliers under a correctly soldered radial cap, you are pretty handy......
There's lots of info on beginning in soldering across this forum....you've already found some I think...