The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: AtomSmasher on March 10, 2007, 10:07:09 pm
-
When I was a little kid, there were a number of things that I always thought would be awesome to have when I get older. So far I have gotten everything on that childhood list except one. My own arcade cabinet - check. A muscle car - check. A projector for a giant TV - check. Hidden doors in my house - not yet. I admit that its a petty list and I probably should of wanted something more substantial, but I was an odd kid. Actually I'm still that same odd kid, just a bit older and now have more resources at my disposal.
Now it is time to check that final item off my list, so I am coming here for advice. I've been scouring the web for a quite a while and have had a number of pages bookmarked for when I finally decided to do this, but information seems to be very thin for this type of project. A number of people on these forums have talked about wanting to do one, but to the best of my knowledge, no one has.
Heres one example someone did: http://pervivere.blogspot.com/2005/09/holly-shelf-unit-batman.html
and heres another that used to have a lot of great info, but seems of gone down recently: http://www.garymkatz.com/Charts/pivot-bookcase.htm
The problem with both of those is that they both created large bookcases with a door in the middle, but all I have room for is a door turned into a bookcase. I'm planning on doing something similar to what www.hideadoor.com does.
Pretty much all I have determined so far is that the best hinge for the job is the Soss Invisible hinge (http://www.lockandhinge.com/scripts/main.cgi?action=search&category=349&show_all=1), of which the very large 3lb 220 Soss hinge (http://www.lockandhinge.com/scripts/main.cgi?action=big&product=220) is probably my best bet. I need a hinge that can hold a lot of weight and still open and close easily, and from what I've read, the Soss hinge is the way to go. The large one also will give 1/2'' of clearance when the door is open, which is a good thing since the door will be swinging forward and should be able to completely open with the 1/2'' clearance.
For the design I am going to do something similar to this:
(http://www.atomic-train.com/images/hdoor/door_traditional1.jpg)
although I'm going to curve some of the molding on the top so that it doesn't have such a rectangular shape and is not so obviously a door.
I'm planning on putting the door on a large under the stairs walk-in closet that is just a few steps in from the front door. Since there is another coat closet right next to it, I'm hoping it won't be too obvious. I would of liked to hide the downstairs bathroom door, but the floor plan makes it pretty obvious the bathroom is there. I don't know, maybe I will put it in front of the bathroom, I'll ask some friends what they think and decide later.
Here is the door to the closet, you can also see the other coat closet in the back and the staircase railing in the front. To the left of the coat closet is the front door, and to the right is the downstairs bath.
(http://www.atomic-train.com/images/hdoor/closet-door.jpg)
-
I'm thinking of making the inside piece of the bookcase (where the hinges will be attached) out of 2'' plywood, or more specifically 2 1'' plywood boards glued/screwed together, and then the rest of the exterior with 1'' plywood and the board across the center (where the top of the lower cabinet is) also 1'' plywood. 2'' is needed for that hinge, and I figure it will probably be needed to keep the door from sagging anyways. I don't know too much about building something like this, so please correct me if I am going overkill. I will then have the three bookshelves 1/2'' plywood and they will also be permantly attached, which will give more support. I will then make the back piece out of one 1/4'' plywood piece.
I'm sure I forgot something, but I've written so much I doubt anyone will read all it anyways :P If you did read it, let me know what you think and any ideas you have. Thanks.
-
Oh, one more thing. I will probably be ordering the hinges next week and after I receive them, I will do some experimenting and tests to see exactly how to make this thing. Maybe even make a carboard mockup just to be safe.
-
If you think you're going to make something like this work without casters... I'd think again. Hanging a couple of hundred pounds (or more) off a single 2x4 or 2x6 stud seems like a recipe for disaster; even if the hinges will support the weight, the stud may distort! Ideally you'd want some sort of ball caster that didn't need to rotate as the door was open and closed. Check out page 1287 of the on-line McMaster-Carr catalog for an example. The small one, unfortunately, is a cheesy piece of plastic; completely over-priced for what you get.
The alternative to having a caster on one side of the shelf is to have the door pivot around a central rod. You may need to make steel brackets that support the shelves and attach to the rod. I know I've seen this done somewhere... might have been Monster House.
If you just want a concealed door, there are probably easier ways to do it than building a complete, heavy bookcase.
-
You're right about the need for the castors, but the annoying thing about the castors it that over time, the castor creates a groove or mars the floor where it rolls. As far as I've seen, nothing short of putting in new flooring every so often stops the castor from doing this. In one such setup, the castor even bit into concrete flooring. :( Not a good way to hide a door if they can see the castor marks.
I'd offer a solution of my own, short of opening the door IN instead of OUT, all of the ones I can think of involve more work than the easiest design. :dunno
-
Wow cool! I've always been intrugued by hidden doors too...
-
Seems like some high quality rubber casters would protect your floor decent enough.
-
You could create a book case that breaks in half and opens in the middle. This would allow you to split the weight load.
If I were doing this - I would keep the door on there and build the bookshelf on the door and keep the door as a base (or on a replacement door).
-
These (http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11882) are excellent casters that are solidly built and made of a polyurethane rubber that won't mar floor panels. They're great.
-
I've been considering a castors, but I really want to avoid using them. I don't plan on filling it with books, so the wood itself will be the heaviest part. I realize I will probably have to reinforce the stud if I don't use castors, anyone know of the best way to do this? The easiest way would be to add another 2x6 to it and have a beam across the top and the bottom to help hold it in place, but I don't know how strong that would actually be. I suppose I could just put in a 4x4 beam to install the door onto.
I've considered doing a center pivot system (as ScottS mentioned) and would actually use a Rixson Center Hung Pivot (http://www.usbuildersupply.com/Rixson/370.htm) instead of an actual rod. The problem is the door is small enough that putting a center hinge would leave only about 18-19'' of doorway width to walk through. The only way I could do that is if I built a large bookcase in front of the door, which is another possibility if everyone thinks theres no easy way to reinforce the stud.
-
I searched the wayback machine for the earlier link I posted that is now dead, and luckily they still have it with all of the pictures.
http://web.archive.org/web/20060427025850/http://www.garymkatz.com/Charts/pivot-bookcase.htm
If I made the bookcase in front of the door, I would make it like this, except I would only have room for the center bookcase, not the two side ones.
-
Once you reinforce the studs, the stress will then fall on the hinges themselves. I know the ones you linked to are rated for 500lbs, but you also have to take into account the stress on their mounting method. Regular screws probably won't do. I'd go for long lag screws or even carriage bolts. The problem with carriage bolts would be accessing both sides of the studs to attach them. You'd have to wait to finish the wall until the bookcase door was already installed.
Back to the casters, you'd really only need one at the edge closest to where the door opens. It's possible to make it hidden as well.
-
The problem is the door is small enough that putting a center hinge would leave only about 18-19'' of doorway width to walk through.
Sounds perfect to me
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y95/ultiboy/no-fat-chicks-de.gif)
-
The problem is the door is small enough that putting a center hinge would leave only about 18-19'' of doorway width to walk through.
Sounds perfect to me
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y95/ultiboy/no-fat-chicks-de.gif)
Heh, well its a closet and I still want to keep it functional, so I'd rather keep the door as wide as possible.
Once you reinforce the studs, the stress will then fall on the hinges themselves. I know the ones you linked to are rated for 500lbs, but you also have to take into account the stress on their mounting method. Regular screws probably won't do. I'd go for long lag screws or even carriage bolts. The problem with carriage bolts would be accessing both sides of the studs to attach them. You'd have to wait to finish the wall until the bookcase door was already installed.
Back to the casters, you'd really only need one at the edge closest to where the door opens. It's possible to make it hidden as well.
I believe both hinges I linked to come with screws made to be able to withstand a large amount of weight, so I don't think that will be a problem. If I did have to access the back of the stud, then I would just cut out the drywall on the inside of the closet so it wouldn't be noticable. Drywall is repaired easily enough so I don't think it would be a problem.
I've thought a lot about casters, and I know I would only need one and that it can be hidden, but it would be traveling over carpet so it would make an extremely noticable mark and would make opening the door much rougher. Theres a number of online stores that sell these same type of bookcases (http://hiddendoors.com & www.hideadoor.com to name a couple), and none of them have casters, so I know its possible to do it without one. If I went with the center hung pivot, then I know I wouldn't need one since the author of the web page I posted (Gary Katz) has mentioned in a number of other forums how great those hinges have worked for him on multiple bookcase projects. Maybe it would be best to use 4 hinges instead of two if I went with the Soss hinges. It would be an extreme overkill, but it would definately hold, assuming the stud was properly reinforced enough.
edit* I was thinking that if I went with 4 hinges, then it would be over 12 lbs of just hinges, a bit of an overkill. Maybe I should go with the slightly smaller 218 Soss hinge (http://www.lockandhinge.com/scripts/main.cgi?action=big&product=218) instead.
edit of the edit* after doing a little more searching on the Soss hinge, I found their manual: http://www.soss.com/pdf/SossCatalog2006.pdf
it seems www.hiddendoors.com uses their hinges and that a 250lb door would need either 4 218 hinges or 3 220 hinges. When buying the hinges, they come in sets of two, so if I went with the 220 hinges, then I would use all four making it strong enough to hold at least 300lbs.
-
What about having the door push into the room and then split to the left and right?
-
This is AWESOME. My wife and I just put money down on a lot so we can build a custom house on it. I've been thinking of adding a small hidden room in the office all day, bookcase door of course. It's a requirement for the new house. It's nice to see you guys think the same way.
Even better, the door enters a small shaft with a ladder and put the secret room on the second floor (or basement). Oh, that would be cool.
-
Where can you add a picture frame that you can see out of from the room?
Private Eyes, one of my favs.
-
Maybe even one of those one sided mirrors. >:D
-
Maybe even one of those one sided mirrors. >:D
lol, that would cut the wieght for the whole thing down.
-
Strangely enough a secret door has been on my list of things I have wanted for a long time too. I would prefer to have a whole room back there though. A closet just sort of cheapens the whole thing. Although my apartment DOES have a closet that intuitively shouldn't exist. The whole apartment is one giant rectangle except for this one closet that leads outside of that space.
-
A hidden room behind a bookcase door would be awesome.
To the batcave! :applaud: :cheers: ;D :dunno
-
Ya, I agree I would prefer to have a whole room behind the door, but theres not really any room that looks like their shouldn't be a door there. Especially since I want to have the door downstairs so people actually see it and hopefully don't notice it ;D
Heres a link to my floorplan if your curious: http://www.atomic-train.com/images/My%20House/floorplan.gif
If all goes well, I may build a second one for one of the rooms upstairs.
Now, back to actually building it. What do you think will be necessary to reinforce the stud? I think I will go with 4 of the 220 hinge (the biggest one) just to be on the safe side, so reinforcing the stud is my main concern. I'm thinking one 2x6 along the side and one along the top (the top one jammed against the side one to keep it from coming out) would probably be enough extra support. What do you think?
-
I know there's a mag I have or looked at that had this. I'll see if I can figure out if I have it or what it was. If I have it, I'll scan it for ya.
If'n you wanna help, look to see if Fine Homebuilding, Family Handyman, or some other mag along that order has anything within the last few months....mebbe back to November at the earliest, if I can remember.
-
I know there's a mag I have or looked at that had this. I'll see if I can figure out if I have it or what it was. If I have it, I'll scan it for ya.
If'n you wanna help, look to see if Fine Homebuilding, Family Handyman, or some other mag along that order has anything within the last few months....mebbe back to November at the earliest, if I can remember.
A little googling and I found that it was issue 184, Taunton's, Fine Homebuilding (Dec 06/Jan 07) that had the article your talking about. Unfortunately I haven't found any scans of the article, so it would be great if you could find your copy of it. I may just try to order a back copy of it if you can't.
Heres a preview of the it: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/fh_184_066.asp
Thanks for the heads up on the article DK.
-
I thought it was a bit farther back than that, actually, but there's a very good chance I have it lying about somewhere. The wife cleaned up Friday, so now I've gotta get my "system" of craporganization back and working again. I'll give it a looksee tomorrow after I wake up.
-
I have the articled scanned--where can I send a 2mb pdf? Just be prepared its pretty skimpy on details--think more like "if you have already built one, how does it compare to ours?" Again I'm amazed on the confluence of hobbies on this board...I have my hidden door spot already picked out :cheers:
-
I have the articled scanned--where can I send a 2mb pdf? Just be prepared its pretty skimpy on details--think more like "if you have already built one, how does it compare to ours?" Again I'm amazed on the confluence of hobbies on this board...I have my hidden door spot already picked out :cheers:
Awesome, thanks. If people want, I can host the files on my webs server for a while.
-
There was recently a show on HGTV called Secret Spaces or something like that. It had houses full of stuff like this. If you can find a copy of it, it is worth watching, especially if you want a ton more ideas stuck into your head.
-
Just be prepared its pretty skimpy on details--think more like "if you have already built one, how does it compare to ours?"
That's what you pulled out of that article? :dizzy:
Seemed far more like a "if you're planning on doing this, here's some tips and planning steps to keep in mind and try to incorporate into your design for better operation"
Are you sure we're talking about the same article? pp66-69, Fine Homebuilding, January 2007, no. 184 Guy finishing a wood floor on the cover?
-
Just be prepared its pretty skimpy on details--think more like "if you have already built one, how does it compare to ours?"
That's what you pulled out of that article? :dizzy:
Seemed far more like a "if you're planning on doing this, here's some tips and planning steps to keep in mind and try to incorporate into your design for better operation"
Are you sure we're talking about the same article? pp66-69, Fine Homebuilding, January 2007, no. 184 Guy finishing a wood floor on the cover?
Thats the one he sent me. I just got around to reading it and while its not as detailed as I hoped, it does still give quite a bit of good info. One of the main things I got out of it is that I should use 3/4'' plywood for the backing in order to keep it from sagging. I figured smaller wood would be enough (as did the author since his first door was a failure), but now I know otherwise. He also mentioned that a bookcase door full of books generally weighs around 250lbs, which means I should be fine with the hinges I choose (4 of the 220 Soss hinges should hold at least 300lbs). He used a ball bearing hinge, but he also had the door swing in, so there was no need to hide the hinge.
He also used surprising small amount of reinforcement for the hinge attached to the wall. It makes me think that I will be able to add enough reinforcement to the stud by just adding 1'' thick plywood along the side and one along the top of the door jam to make sure it doesn't come loose.
-
Well I just bought a pair of 220 Soss hinges from ebay for $45 shipped, which seems like a real good deal. I'll still need to find another pair, but at least now I can start experimenting with them.
-
I got an idea.
Build a mame machine to put in the closet and put all those adult games on that arcade.
-
How about a piano hinge running up the side of the bookcase that would be hidden by the molding.
You also want to check the framing around the door for a double upright stud on both sides of the door and at least 2 x 4 header, a 2 x 6 would be better with the weight.
I look forward to updates and progress pics.
Cheers
-
How about a piano hinge running up the side of the bookcase that would be hidden by the molding.
If you've got a source for a 6-7' piano hinge that will support 250+ pounds when mounted vertically, I'd love to hear about it!
-
I like the idea and hope to see some good photos of your progress. Just remember, a hidden room does no good if you're asking your friends for advice on building it. They'll know where it is!
Too bad you don't have more wall space near the door. Then you could just build it as a sliding bookcase, either outside "against" the wall or built into it. Against the wall could slide on tracks hidding behind the bookcase in a method similar to how van side doors open. In the wall would slide like patio doors, with the sliding hardware mounted inside your hidden room and and the front of the shelves sliding behind the wall and the left and right edges hidden behind molding, making it even harder to detect.
Of course, it would be a simple task to rig the old "pull a certain book to release the latch" trick with that kind of system.
I remember seeing a show sometime recently where they were discussing "panic rooms" and had a bookshelf that opened inward as a less obvious door located near a more obvious false door. They reinforced the framework near the door with steel and armored the door.
I like the idea of the entrance to the room being on a separate floor than the actual room, although a "bolt-hole" would be necessary for emergencies. Probably a crawlspace tunnel either outside or to another part of the house.
Now all you have to find is a talking picture to ask for your password in a British accent....
-
Just checked out the site your first picture came from and noticed something I missed earlier...
There is a space at the bottom of the "bookcase", just like a door has, for air flow. This could be a huge tip-off to an observant visitor who may wonder why there would be space under a bookcase mounted into the wall. A solution to this problem would be to replace the baseboard along that wall to continue straight across like the wall is one-piece, matching the original baseboard in style and color. Mount it so it sits flush against the front of the "bookcase".
This would look more authentic and help keep your hidden room "hidden". The only drawback would be that you would have to step over it when you enter the room. Of course this assumes that your door swings inward. If it doesn't, you'll either have space under the door, or breaks in the baseboard along the edges, another tip-off. And if it opens outward with a case that reaches the floor, you risk leaving trackmarks on the floor (or carpet) that will show after repeated use.
Sorry if I'm pointing out things only a potential thief would notice. Must be my sneaky nature....
-
Just checked out the site your first picture came from and noticed something I missed earlier...
There is a space at the bottom of the "bookcase", just like a door has, for air flow. This could be a huge tip-off to an observant visitor who may wonder why there would be space under a bookcase mounted into the wall. A solution to this problem would be to replace the baseboard along that wall to continue straight across like the wall is one-piece, matching the original baseboard in style and color. Mount it so it sits flush against the front of the "bookcase".
This would look more authentic and help keep your hidden room "hidden". The only drawback would be that you would have to step over it when you enter the room. Of course this assumes that your door swings inward. If it doesn't, you'll either have space under the door, or breaks in the baseboard along the edges, another tip-off. And if it opens outward with a case that reaches the floor, you risk leaving trackmarks on the floor (or carpet) that will show after repeated use.
Sorry if I'm pointing out things only a potential thief would notice. Must be my sneaky nature....
I have thought about that and since my door will be swining outward it will be a little tricky. What I'm thinking of doing is put a few inches for boards attached to the floor, then I will have the door hang over it a little bit, but still be high enough so that the board attached to the floor is easily seen. My hope is that it will just look like a slightly recessed section at the bottom which is pretty common in cabinets (its even in the arcade cabinets I built).
I doubt my carpentry skills are good enough to make this thing impossible to detect, but I'll do what I can. I'm not doing this to have a safe room or anything, just something cool to have ;D
-
First off, you weren't an odd kid. Every single one of us had the same dreams...that is why we are all here. ;D However, it is disappointing that dating a supermodel wasn't on your list. :laugh2:
Now my two cents:
You will be using hinges rated for 300 lbs, you won't need a "roller" support for the few minutes the door will be open. Your main worry will be what is supporting the other side while the door just sits there closed. A better support solution would be to integrate a support into the framing on the other side that the bookcase rests on while the door is closed.
Also, you better dag gone well make it so that a certain book pulled out partially disengages the latch mechanism. Otherwise, you are wasting your time. ;D
-
Also, you better dag gone well make it so that a certain book pulled out partially disengages the latch mechanism. Otherwise, you are wasting your time. ;D
I disagree. A bust of Shakespeare would be equally as good for the purpose. Bonus points if it's this one:
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1523/433/1600/batman.jpg
-
We;re looking for a new house and I just looked over at the missus and sad the new house has to have a spot for a bookcase/hidden doorway. She gave me the same look (like I'm having a cranial misfire and she just wants to humor me) that I got when I got said I was building a juke. I guess I'll have to secretly build it in the garage like everything else and then when she sees that it's not hideous I can bring it inside.
And am I the only one who wanted to be a professional wrestler as well?
-
Also, you better dag gone well make it so that a certain book pulled out partially disengages the latch mechanism. Otherwise, you are wasting your time. ;D
I disagree. A bust of Shakespeare would be equally as good for the purpose. Bonus points if it's this one:
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1523/433/1600/batman.jpg
oh my god! shakespeare had a tracheotomy!
-
I'm definately planning on having the door open by pulling or pushing on a book, its pretty much a given for this type of thing.
I just received the two hinges I bought off ebay and they are beasts. I can't imagine 4 of them will have a problem with the weight of the door. I think I'm going to have some free time tommorrow, so I'm going to try and rig something up with scrapwood to see how much clearance will be needed for my door to swing open.
-
If there is room, what about a piece of engineered lumber? Much stronger than a 2x4 or 2x6. Obviously engineered lumber is typically used on edge instead of I-beams but I have a workbench with 2 - 12 inch x 2 inch pieces and it is incredible.
-
I always wanted to do this, too. You rock for actually doing it! :applaud:
A kid I knew had a little, half-height door installed on the back wall of his closet, leading to the closet in the little brother's room. Boy, did I ever think that was the coolest thing.
-
I wonder if Michael Jackson used this same concept for his hidden door? :dunno
-
I have no idea what engineered lumber is, but I'll look into it and anyone else with any opinions on it, let me know what you think. Reading up on door jams, it looks like there already should be two 2x4's in the door frame, so I think if I just add 1'' thick piece of plywood (actually two 1/2'' pieces) for added support along the side, top, and bottom, it should hold just fine. Since the hinge is only recessed 2 inches, it will go through the plywood and partway through one 2x4 and should have the other 2x4 behind it, which won't be touched by the hinge, for added support. I think that will be enough to hold it.
I'm also going to use two pieces of 3/4'' and one piece of 1/2'' plywood on the inside part of the bookcase so that it will be 2'' thick for the hinges and more then strong enough to prevent warping.
In my last post I mentioned building a test "door" out of scrap wood to see how much clearance would be needed. I did do that a little while ago (basically installed a hinge in two 2x4 pieces, then a piece a wood sticking out that is what I expected the bookcase width to be and another piece on the end of that of what I think the depth will be, I can post a picture if thats confusing and you really want to know), and it looks like it will need around 1 1/2'' of clearance to swing open (I haven't measured exactly how much it will need yet, but I will before I start cutting any wood). It's a little more then I hoped, but it should work out fine.
I'm also thinking I'm going to scrap the idea of adding cabinet doors to the bottom half of the bookcase. Frankly I just don't trust my woodworking skills to make cabinet doors, and I don't know any place where you can buy custom sized unstained cabinet doors without it being too expensive. I think a regular bookcase will look fine anyways.
I was hoping to go buy the wood for this project this weekend, but I seem to be coming down with a fever, so it will depend on how I feel. Seems things keep popping up to keep me from getting going with this. Last weekend I had to spend building a webpage and writing an on online ordering program for my business. It wasn't difficult, it was just time consuming since I haven't programed in a couple years and never worked much with html or cgi, so I had to learn how to do it first. Good news is our clients love it and we're already getting more business because of it :)
I think I'm rambling now, but I have a fever so cut me a little slack ;D
-
http://www.lpcorp.com/lvl/lvl.aspx
link for engineered lumber or LVL. To get to the basics it is like plywood on steroids. It is very dense and super strong. Like I eluded to in my previous message many builders will use LVL to support loads in houses instead of the typical metal I-beam. Although it is installed on its side and not flat. I will say price can be a scary factor. If interested check the local home improvement Store.
-
I went and picked up some wood today, one 3/4'' sheet and one 1/4'' sheet of oak plywood. Unfortunately they didn't have any 1/2'' sheets, but a 1/4'' sheet should still work for my purposes. I know I will need at least one more 3/4'' sheet before I finish this, but at $40 a pop I decided to buy it when I need it.
I'll spend the next week figuring out the plans and exactly what I will need to cut. This will be a slow going project and most of the work will happen on the weekends, but even at a slow pace, it will get done.
-
Just thought I'd give an update. I've now cut out most of the pieces that I will be using. I have also glued together several pieces to make the 2'' beam which will be on the inside edge of the bookcase. My next step will be cutting the holes in the beam for the hinges, which I will hopefully get to do this weekend. Once that is done, I will assemble the bookcase, which shouldn't take long, and then I will need to start working on the door frame itself. This will probably be my last free weekend for a while, so it will still be a while before I complete it, but at least I'm making progress.
-
Different from yours but it might give you some ideas if you aren't already too far along.
http://www.instructables.com/id/E4Z8XHRF1A4XXOA/?ALLSTEPS
-
Different from yours but it might give you some ideas if you aren't already too far along.
http://www.instructables.com/id/E4Z8XHRF1A4XXOA/?ALLSTEPS
If I had the room, I would of built a large bookcase like that with the middle swinging out, unfortunately I couldn't find a place to do it, which is why I decided to go with a door replacement. Nice find though, its always good to have plenty of examples to refer to.
Unfortunately, I ended up not getting anything done on the project this past weekend, my brother-in-law (who is a plumber for the county) had the weekend free, so he came over and helped me install sprinklers in my back yard.
-
Just wondering if anything happened with this project?
-
Well yes and no.
The bookcase is basically built and has been sitting in my garage for a while, although it still needs to be sanded and stained. I got stuck trying to figure out how to get the molding to look good on the side with the hinges, and I set the project aside telling myself I'll eventually come back and finish it.
I think I know how to make it work now and have been meaning to work on this again, but I keep setting it to the side and working on other things. Cutting into the beams on the door frame around where I'll be installing this makes me nervous, which I think is why my subconscience keeps getting me to finish other projects first.
I still plan on finishing it at some point.
-
Just read through it... of all of the suggestions for reinforcing the stud, why wood? Why not reinforce with metal? You can easily attach properly rated hinges to a metal plate and have no problems supporting hundreds of pounds.
-
Just found you and I know of a company here in Santa Cruz that manufactures the hardware for a hidden door with provision for well over 500 lbs. of books. It is called Reversica and you can check it out at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DHNhrhyu8I .
-
Just found you and I know of a company here in Santa Cruz that manufactures the hardware for a hidden door with provision for well over 500 lbs. of books. It is called Reversica and you can check it out at .
Holy crap that is awesome. I may request a quote for the hinge, but I'm betting its well out of my price range.
-
http://www.hiddenpassageway.com/
http://www.woodfold.com/bookcase/residential.php