The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Kaytrim on February 13, 2007, 04:58:46 pm
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I posted this in my project thread but I want to get as much feedback on this idea as I can.
Some of you know that I working on a modular system for my control panel. I have recently purchased two used Midway 49 way joysticks. I am also going to have a new GPWiz49 card to interface with them. With the capabilities of the 49 way sticks in combination with the GPWiz49 I really don't need to swap joysticks like I had originally thought I would. With this I have decided to make a more permanent CP with only two swappable modules.
Below are some images created in CP Sketcher. The first one is the full control panel. I have moved the admin buttons off the bezel and onto the top area of the CP. The boxes around the action buttons are the swappable modules. The next three pics are of sample modules that I am planning or thinking of planning (Trackball, Spinner, Stargate).
These modules will have connections automatically made when the module is locked in place. These connections will either be USB or CAT-5 with the locking tab removed depending on the type of controls in the module. I don't have the details on the connection system figured out yet but I have a few ideas that are not easily described yet.
If you have any ideas on how I can make this work or changes you want to suggest please feel free to reply to the thread.
Thanks, :cheers:
Kaytrim
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It's an interesting idea, and one I don't think I've seen before. Swapping out just the button panels seems like a good idea. Do you have a plan for how they will be secured, and then removed?
I'd love to see this working when you're done.
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For myself, I don't see any reason to not go completely modular.
You are losing alot of the flexibility that a modular system would offer, as well as missing out on the ability to precisely mimic the original CP's for every game.
That ability, and the advantage of not having to buy the same control for several CP's where the driving factors in my conversion from my original swappable CP's to a modular system.
If you decide to add twin steering wheels with shifters, or twin tank controls, etc..., you are in for a huge retrofit.
I had to completely redesign my CP area for a modular system, even though it already had swappable CP panels.
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NoOne,
:dunno I currently have a full modular system and I am not happy with the results, see my project thread. My woodworking skills and tools are not first rate so the modules fit sloppy and slide around. I want to positively lock the modules in place so they don't move around. If I can at least permanently install the joysticks then I can live with the other modules being a little loose.
The minimum area that the modules will take up will be determined by the trackball mount. In my rough estimates that means a minimum module of 7" high by 8" wide. This gives me plenty of room to mount a top fire joystick or possibly a wheel like the TT2 from GGG. I don't play the racing games much so this is not a big issue. I am more into Street Fighter, Neo-Geo, scrolling, trackball and pinball games though I do like ROBOTRON and Smash TV as well. I might get a light gun later for some games but I don't see the technology at the point where I can justify the purchase.
I don't have the desire to spend a bunch of money to purchase controls that are only used for a few games that wouldn't get much playing time. A good example of this is the Star Wars yoke. I liked the Star Wars games and Roadblasters as well but I just can't see me shelling out $200+ for one control. As far as the steering wheel I see most of the driving games needing to be in a sit-down cab with the shifter at your side.
I appreciate your input and reasons for a full modular system. I had the same ideas when I started work and based my CP on Doc's Modular MAME. I just didn't like the way mine turned out.
TTFN :cheers:
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Anybody else have some suggestions or comments please let me know. Especially if you have an idea to lock these modules in place.
Thanks,
Kaytrim
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Anybody else have some suggestions or comments please let me know. Especially if you have an idea to lock these modules in place.
Thanks,
Kaytrim
Search for "doc's modular." I based my modular panel on his. The one thing I did change was the way the panels are secured. He used wood dowels/holes and I used ball catches.
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Anybody else have some suggestions or comments please let me know. Especially if you have an idea to lock these modules in place.
Thanks,
Kaytrim
Search for "doc's modular." I based my modular panel on his. The one thing I did change was the way the panels are secured. He used wood dowels/holes and I used ball catches.
yea my original CP test was based on Doc's but the modules were "loose as a goose". Then I went to velcro and it is just about as bad. I plan on compleatly rebuilding my CP box from scratch as there are many things I want to change. Do you have a pic of your modules and the "ball catches"?
more pics here (http://flickr.com/photos/kaytrim/)
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/113/284901640_00c1054b15.jpg?v=0)
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/115/298808793_22446ff44c.jpg?v=0)
Thanks, :cheers:
Kaytrim
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I am afraid i will end up with the same thing so i think i am just going to make the whole damn thing swappable. This is going to end up with more work. and i will need more room to store the cp's but i figure if i make one that works for most games i should be good. with the option to add more later.
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I am afraid i will end up with the same thing so i think i am just going to make the whole damn thing swappable. This is going to end up with more work. and i will need more room to store the cp's but i figure if i make one that works for most games i should be good. with the option to add more later.
I plan to have storage in the cab for the modules. The kick panel will be two sided. One side for the coin door with the computer stuff. The other side with a pullout rack for the modules.
I think that my locking mechanizim will be something along the line of a screw knob with a t-nut. the screw knob would press against a metal plate on the module locking it in place with the pressure. This is basically what I am doing now only with a shim along the side, the end result will just be more elegant. I have other ideas such as using a door latch and other things along that line. I'll let you all know how my testing goes. I am still open to ideas. ;D
My basic reason to do this is for my 8-year-old son and other guests to be able to easily switch modules. All I will need then is a front end that will show what the CP is supposed to look like when they choose a game and automatically switch my 49-way joysticks when the game starts.
l8r :cheers:
Kaytrim
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This is pretty cool Kaytrim!
Are you absolutely set on the 'auto' connection thing though?
Reason I ask is that you are going to need a lot of pins in the receptacle ends of the connectors and depending on where you mount it under the deck, all of your modules will need to align perfectly with it. That's going to restrict your placement options a bit. Mating harnes connectors would be so much easer, maybe color code them for ease if identification.
Most of the connections will go unused except for whenever that certain module is plugged in. Some components (I.E. trackball) may not respond well to the 'hot swappable' configuration.
If I understand correctly, you want to use a drop in module board. Could you route out a grove or lip along the inner edge of the hole in the CP deck and have a matching lip or mating surface on the outer edge of the module? If you can keep your tolerances tight they shouldn't move around too much but you'll most likely still end up with a visible seem.
I was wondering if you used magnetic strips along the surfaces of this mating edge, how well they would hold em in place and how likely would they be to cause interference with your controls. You shouldn't need much holding power really. I'm thinking them sheets of 'earth magnet' material, it's very plyable stuff and cuts easy with a scissors. Just not sure how you'd affix it to the modules. :dunno
Eitherway I am interested in the idea and look forward to seeing how you work it out!
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Here's a shot of a double ball catch. I used 4 on the back door of my cab. There a pain the neck to use though. At least they were for my application. Come to think of it, they probably won't be solid enough to withstand joystick usage but I may be wrong. Perhaps ok for buttons.
(http://milesnelson.co.nz/images/product_shots/708_double_ball_catch.jpg)
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I was wondering if you used magnetic strips along the surfaces of this mating edge, how well they would hold em in place and how likely would they be to cause interference with your controls. You shouldn't need much holding power really. I'm thinking them sheets of 'earth magnet' material, it's very plyable stuff and cuts easy with a scissors.
Unless there's some sort of ultra sensitive PC component sitting right there, I doubt the magnets would affect the CP very much. Depending on the magnet(s) he uses, he could utilize it as a contact point even, perhaps for ground. I've encountered false panels where the magnets used to hold the panel in place was also an electrical contact for fixtures on the panel itself. It'll probably never pass UL inspection if you use 120v* like what I've seen, but for 5v and lower with such low amperage, it would probably be ideal. Work in some sort of polarity and you could ensure the panels are dropped in in the correct orientation as well.
*Don't Apple laptops use magnets for their power connection?
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CykoMF,
Thanks for your input. As far as the button, trackball and spinner modules I wouldn't need much holding power. I like your idea of milling a lip into the CP and a rabbit on the module. My only concern is if it would hold up to the pounding that a trackball can receive. If I were to add a top fire joystick module then things would really get moving around. I don't think that your idea of refrigerator magnets would do the trick here either. They are easy to work with but don't have much holding power. Remember the idea I gave you on your CP as far as locking it in place? I am thinking on using something along that line here. or the screw lock as I mentioned above.
As far as the auto connection. I don't see more than 7 buttons on a module so a single CAT-5 connection would be sufficient. Once I add LEDs then a second CAT-5 could handle that. The trackball and spinner would have a single USB connection because those interfaces would have places for mouse buttons on them. The weight of the module alone may not be enough to maintain the connection so I need a physical locking mechanizim somehow. I also need someway to pop the module up so I can remove it once it is unlocked. Some kind of spring loaded pin should do the trick.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Here's a shot of a double ball catch. I used 4 on the back door of my cab. There a pain the neck to use though. At least they were for my application. Come to think of it, they probably won't be solid enough to withstand joystick usage but I may be wrong. Perhaps ok for buttons.
(http://milesnelson.co.nz/images/product_shots/708_double_ball_catch.jpg)
That is the ball catch that I was thinking was mentioned above. I don't think that would hold up to heavy joystick usage either. Plus it would be difficult to remove the module once it is locked in place using these unless I had some way of pushing up from below.
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I'm not sure why you'd have to push up from below. My understanding was you'd snap in the module from the top pushing downward to snap it in place.
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I'm not sure why you'd have to push up from below. My understanding was you'd snap in the module from the top pushing downward to snap it in place.
[sarcastically] How would you recommend that I remove the one in the CP when I want to swap them? [/sarcastically] ;D
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As far as the auto connection. I don't see more than 7 buttons on a module so a single CAT-5 connection would be sufficient. Once I add LEDs then a second CAT-5 could handle that.
A cat 5 has 4 pair, while 7 buttons requires 7 pair (NO and Ground). Am I missing something?
Yes... yes I am. Daisy chain the ground, so 7 NO and 1 Ground for 4 pair. Makes sense. Carry on...
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Once I add LEDs then a second CAT-5 could handle that.
I would highly suggest using phone cord for the lighting cables.
That way you can't accidentally plug a joystick into the lighting power supply, and vice-versa.
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Once I add LEDs then a second CAT-5 could handle that.
I would highly suggest using phone cord for the lighting cables.
That way you can't accidentally plug a joystick into the lighting power supply, and vice-versa.
A phone cord will not have enough wires if there are 7 buttons on a module. The CAT-5 connections will be fixed so there is no way of confusing them. You just put the module in and the connections are made for you.
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Ok some of you are wondering how I am going to make these connections automatically when a module is put into the CP. Below is an image that shows how this is gong to work. The image shows two metal plates where male or female CAT-5 connectors have been wired and then epoxied in place. The male connectors will be on the module and the female connectors on the CP. One pair will be for lights and the other pair will be for the controls. Each metal plate will be screwed into place so they don't move thus allowing a connection each time a module is installed. I will have a similar setup with the USB cables.
Any questions or comments please post here. ;D
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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I'm not sure why you'd have to push up from below. My understanding was you'd snap in the module from the top pushing downward to snap it in place.
[sarcastically] How would you recommend that I remove the one in the CP when I want to swap them? [/sarcastically] ;D
LOL. I'm laughing at myself and think I'm a little red in the face too. I only considered the snap in. :-[
Time to hopefully redeem myself. How about a system of removable modules with a tongue on the front end and one of those snap in window latches in the front.
http://www.vandykes.com/images/products/02009651-lg.jpg
You can have a little access panel in the front and add a couple of small springs so it the module pops up on release. Between the tongue on one end and the latch on the other it would probably stay quite snug. It would also realease quickly too. Don't know if you know exactly what I mean but I do have the picture in my head if that counts for anything.
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Here's a shot of a double ball catch. I used 4 on the back door of my cab. There a pain the neck to use though. At least they were for my application. Come to think of it, they probably won't be solid enough to withstand joystick usage but I may be wrong. Perhaps ok for buttons.
(http://milesnelson.co.nz/images/product_shots/708_double_ball_catch.jpg)
That is the ball catch that I was thinking was mentioned above. I don't think that would hold up to heavy joystick usage either. Plus it would be difficult to remove the module once it is locked in place using these unless I had some way of pushing up from below.
That's them.
They're plenty fine for panels. Takes a good yank on the very end of the panel to dislodge them. Cab takes a beating on Robotron and the never give.
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Ok some of you are wondering how I am going to make these connections automatically when a module is put into the CP. Below is an image that shows how this is gong to work. The image shows two metal plates where male or female CAT-5 connectors have been wired and then epoxied in place. The male connectors will be on the module and the female connectors on the CP. One pair will be for lights and the other pair will be for the controls. Each metal plate will be screwed into place so they don't move thus allowing a connection each time a module is installed. I will have a similar setup with the USB cables.
Any questions or comments please post here. ;D
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
Looks like a good amount of work when you can just use the cable method Doc used. I used that and just used a rack-mount CAT5 for the female jacks.
I would have concerns about the epoxy holding up in the long haul, too.
My two cents. . .
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If they can take a Robotron beating, then they'll outlast anything you can throw at it. Believe it or not (and I may have mentioned this before), I saw a guy once go slingshoting to the floor after violently trying to avoid one of the enforcers crosshair bullets. His hand must have been sweaty. He actually fell on the floor beside me. It was funny to see.
Kaytrim is right though. You wouldn't be able to yank a button out.
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I'm not sure why you'd have to push up from below. My understanding was you'd snap in the module from the top pushing downward to snap it in place.
[sarcastically] How would you recommend that I remove the one in the CP when I want to swap them? [/sarcastically] ;D
LOL. I'm laughing at myself and think I'm a little red in the face too. I only considered the snap in. :-[
Time to hopefully redeem myself. How about a system of removable modules with a tongue on the front end and one of those snap in window latches in the front.
http://www.vandykes.com/images/products/02009651-lg.jpg
You can have a little access panel in the front and add a couple of small springs so it the module pops up on release. Between the tongue on one end and the latch on the other it would probably stay quite snug. It would also realease quickly too. Don't know if you know exactly what I mean but I do have the picture in my head if that counts for anything.
Now my friend we are on the same page. ;D I actually plan on stopping at a hardware store tonight and pick up the necessary items to make this work. The only difference is that I plan on using door latches instead of window latches. They are more robust and will be able to deal with the necessary tension on the springs.
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Here's a shot of a double ball catch. I used 4 on the back door of my cab. There a pain the neck to use though. At least they were for my application. Come to think of it, they probably won't be solid enough to withstand joystick usage but I may be wrong. Perhaps ok for buttons.
(http://milesnelson.co.nz/images/product_shots/708_double_ball_catch.jpg)
That is the ball catch that I was thinking was mentioned above. I don't think that would hold up to heavy joystick usage either. Plus it would be difficult to remove the module once it is locked in place using these unless I had some way of pushing up from below.
That's them.
They're plenty fine for panels. Takes a good yank on the very end of the panel to dislodge them. Cab takes a beating on Robotron and the never give.
These would be fine for latching the entire CP down in the back with a piano hinge in the front.
Ok some of you are wondering how I am going to make these connections automatically when a module is put into the CP. Below is an image that shows how this is gong to work. The image shows two metal plates where male or female CAT-5 connectors have been wired and then epoxied in place. The male connectors will be on the module and the female connectors on the CP. One pair will be for lights and the other pair will be for the controls. Each metal plate will be screwed into place so they don't move thus allowing a connection each time a module is installed. I will have a similar setup with the USB cables.
Any questions or comments please post here. ;D
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
Looks like a good amount of work when you can just use the cable method Doc used. I used that and just used a rack-mount CAT5 for the female jacks.
I would have concerns about the epoxy holding up in the long haul, too.
My two cents. . .
I want something that my kids and guests don't have to know anything about the cab other than they need to swap the modules. This way they don't need to have a degree in engineering. Just release the one in the CP and slap in another one.
They way I am planing these connection there shouldn't be much stress on the epoxy. The epoxy I plan on using is a metal type, comes in a tube and looks and acts like clay until it hardens. I used some of this to fix the lid sensor switch on a washer. That lid comes crashing down quite a bit and this stuff doesn't bend, break or wear out.
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I'm planning on making a Doc-wannabe modular control panel also. According to Doc's pages, the trifecta of the dowels, holes, and lip on top keep things pretty stable, but it makes me nervous. It seems to me that the dowels/holes would keep things pretty solid in the x/y plane, but I'm curious how often you would harf on a joystick and have the front lip of the panel lift up.
Inspired by our friends at the PA turnpike, I was thinking of putting a strip of Dual-Lock velcro (http://www.fastenation.com/duallock.tmpl?cart=1171735095245364) along the front just to keep the Z axis solid. This stuff is dynamite! My only concern is that I will either need to route out the front some small amount to ensure that I have solid wood-wood contact, but the dual-lock will still bond.
I've also toyed with using an electromagnet or rare earth magnets to keep the z axis solid, but those seem more finnicky.
Has anybody done a Doc-like modular panel with the rods and used it extensively? Is it necessary to clamp down the front? I'm also worried that with constant changing, the wood rods will get smushed, broken, or sloppy.
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GregorDV,
I started with Doc's original plans and it was difficult to keep the necessary tolerances for a solid CP. Doc used ball catches similar to those you find in a cabinet to lock down the joystick modules. I did the same and they held down rather well. I have also tried Velcro and it works but the modules still move in both cases. The current setup that I have uses the Velcro and I still have to jam a shim in one side to make things solid.
The sloppiness is most noticeable in the joysticks and this is why I am going to permanently mount them and have modules for the other controls. I have everything that I need to start building this new version except the MDF. I'll be getting that later this afternoon and hope to get started on the build.
I'll be posting pics as I go in this thread so everyone can follow along, make comments and ask questions.
TTFN :cheers:
kaytrim
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Using my design, there is some work needed to fit the panels properly. Most important is a clean cut on the supporting wood - particularly the fit where the panels slip under the bezel. This gives the panels their lateral stability and keeps them from rocking. I had a friend who was a bit careless here and he had some rocking.
Cutting all of the panels at once helps since you can set the saw rail once for each panel size and then rip them all at once.
A second point is that almost all of the dowel holes required some adjustment. It is just very difficult to get a very precise hole using manual tools. I started with a hole the same size as the dowel, then compensated by hand fitting each one, auguring out just a little more material from the holes in the bottom of each panel on the side needed to get proper alignment. This took a little time, but made for very small gaps between panels and also resulted in better stability.
The cat5/USB wiring is described on my web site (in signature) and has also held up well over time. In fact the cabinet was done in 2003, so it is almost 4 years old now and gets frequent use - at least several times a week. We also swap panels regularly. I've only had to do very minor repairs - one or two loose wires, one panel recovered, etc...
I certainly encourage you to improve on the design!
Good luck on your modular system!
Cheers!
Doc-
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Thanks for the encouragement Doc. I have had your cab in mind since I came across this site a few years ago. I didn't like the frankenpanels that always showed up on other cabs. As I liked several games with various controls I had to come up with a system like yours.
I went to Lows yesterday and got the MDF and they cut it down to manageable pieces for me to put into my car. One of the pieces was cut specifically for the modules. Now all I need to do is cut out the top and base pieces. Then manufacture then necessary parts for the module system. This is going to be a good sized CP 36x18 but all the modules will be the same size. 8x10. I'll take pics as I go to document the construction process.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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I started the manufacture of the parts over the weekend. I'll have picks up later as they progress. After some mock ups and rethinking my CP is getting larger than I would have liked but the current size is 36x17. The top will overlap the sides and front of the box by 1 inch. Below is an image of the current layout. The big black rectangles are the module placements. They are 8x10
:hissy: I made a big bobo over the weekend. I cut out the pieces for the CP without verifying my final measurements. The piece I cut was 30x17. I still might be able to salvage the CP though. The space between the module holes is 6" All I have to do is cut the top where the left side of the right hole will be and splice in a 6" piece with glue and dowels. After it is sanded and CPO is applied nobody will know the difference.
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Got some time tonight with the pics in hand. For starters I spent tonight fixing my bobo on the CP top. I'll have to recut the front and back of the box later. As planed I cut the top where the right side of the player one module hole is. I also cut the 6x17 plug and dowels. (see pic 1). Next I drilled the holes in the three pieces and aligned them for gluing. There was a lot of redrilling to get the panels aligned with the dowels in place. I didn't put the glue in place until I was sure of the fit. I didn't use regular wood glue here because I wanted a good solid repair. Instead I used Loctite construction adhesive on the joint and Elmer's Ultimate Glue in the holes. (see pic 2) I finally took two scrap pieces of MDF and screwed them in the panels on the bottom of the CP to keep them straight and true while the glue sets.
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Now for the module release mechinizims. I just have a start on these but it is a rather important piece. When I want to remove a module from the panel I don't have a way to pull them out. For this purpose I created some spring loaded pins. The first pic shows the raw materials from Ace Hardware. The spring is 1 7/8" long like this and is slightly less than 3/4" when fully compressed. The fender washers allow the 3/16" rod to slide through. Next I took and cut 4 pieces 3" long from the rod then hammered one end so the washer would not slide off. After adding some flux I used a torch and lead free solder to connect them together. (see pic 2)
Next I cut some pieces of wood and drilled a hole in them for the rods. I then roughed the exposed end and added a washer. The epoxy I am using here is like clay and cures rock hard. (see pic 3) Sorry about the focus here it is called Steel Epoxy Putty. In pic 4 you can see the final result while the epoxy cures. These will be placed in two of the corners to push the modules up when the lock is released. More on the lock later.
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Finally the CAT 5 connections. I started with the female connectors a metal plate and my epoxy putty. (see pic 1) I have about 2 min of work time before the epoxy starts to cure pics 2 & 3 show the end result. After the epoxy cures I take two cables with the lock tab removed and attach them to another metal plate and while the epoxy cures I put the connectors together so they will mate later. (pic 4)
That is all for this update. Please let me know what you think so far.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Well, you could've made a small bracket for each, or each pair, and bolted it to the plate.
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Few things here Kaytrim.
1st- I'm seriously too dumb to figure out what you are talking about with the whole "modular CP". Naaaa naa na na na...Don't try to explain it. I will just look at the pictures, smile & nod my head pretending to understand.
2nd- You have like Cat 5 plugs and stuff on your CP. uhhh. I don't want to go there. Me :dizzy:
3rdly- I believe FRANKENMAME might somehow come to be the sickest thing this place has ever seen. I'm not sure yet...but it just might be.
Seriously, Good Luck Buddy!
:cheers:
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Few things here Kaytrim.
1st- I'm seriously too dumb to figure out what you are talking about with the whole "modular CP". Naaaa naa na na na...Don't try to explain it. I will just look at the pictures, smile & nod my head pretending to understand.
2nd- You have like Cat 5 plugs and stuff on your CP. uhhh. I don't want to go there. Me :dizzy:
3rdly- I believe FRANKENMAME might somehow come to be the sickest thing this place has ever seen. I'm not sure yet...but it just might be.
Seriously, Good Luck Buddy!
:cheers:
You said "don't try to explain" well I have always been know for being bull headed. ;) I'll just let the pics speak for themselves. The CAT-5 plugs :censored: :censored: :censored:, get your head out of the gutter. :laugh2: As far as being the sickest thing, time will tell and you had better not. ;)
Thanks for the sentiments, time for me to get working on it. I am going to have some stuff coming from GGG hopefully soon and I want to be ready when the package gets here. ;D
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I didn't get much done last night. Real life got in the way. I was able to check my CP expansion though. It came out straight and solid. ;D I filled in the cracks with wood putty and sanded it down. Now I need to true up the holes and make sure they are the same size before I cut the modules that will fit into them. I also was able to expand the CP box and get that glued up. I hope to be able to take some pics tonight and continue with the module fittings.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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I didn't get much done last night. Real life got in the way. I was able to check my CP expansion though. It came out straight and solid. ;D I filled in the cracks with wood putty and sanded it down. Now I need to true up the holes and make sure they are the same size before I cut the modules that will fit into them. I also was able to expand the CP box and get that glued up. I hope to be able to take some pics tonight and continue with the module fittings.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
Can't wait to see the pics man! I think I'm understanding this more now. (I might take heat for asking this but oh well) When you say modular you mean like multiple swappable CP's? There is a lot of writing above and I will not lie and say I read it all. Then I think I'm understanding the Cat 5. Where did you get the idea for the Cat5. Has someone done this before you or is this exclusive to the Frankenmame?
Either way... Nice Work!!
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The original idea of a modular control panel is not mine. Nor is the idea original to Doc but he is the one that documented it real well. See his web page here. (http://www.beersmith.com/mame)
My idea is to have just portions of the CP modular. The joysticks and admin buttons will be permanent while the action buttons will be on modules where I can swap in a trackball or spinner or another joystick, just about anything.
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The weathermen are predicting an ice storm heading in overnight followed by several inches of snow. this may effectively lock me in the house with nothing to do. ;) Hopefully I will have plenty of stuff to update you all on over the next 2-3 days. ;D
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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The ice storm cut our power yesterday but not before I was able to get some work done. ;D The first image below is the control panel with modules in place. When the locking mech is released the module pops up as seen in image two. The locking mech I used us just a normal door latch as you can see in image 3. Here is the locking mech from below in image 4 and that is about when the power went out.
The ice storm left about 1/4 inch of ice and is still expecting snow around the area today. I hope that the power outages are over. I plan on finishing these modules and getting the CAT 5 and USB connections lined up today. I might even get my trackball installed on one of these modules. I'll have more pics and a proper write up later.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Ok folks. The ice storm clean up took most of my time and energy yesterday so no more work done on the CP. I'll take a little time here and do a proper writeup on the progress over the weekend.
First thing people should be aware of about me is that I tend to fly by the seat of my pants instead of planing out every step before putting saw to wood. I know that this is not always the best way to do things but it works for me. You can see the results of this failure to plan in the need to expand the CP so it would hold everything planned.
After the CP expansion was dry and solid I checked the size of the holes for the modules. I realized that the right hole was slightly too wide (10 1/8") for my module stock (9 7/8"). The next thing that I found out was the height was not enough (7 7/8"). I took a strip of thin plywood and glued and nailed it to one side of the right hole. Then I took my wood rasp and widened the holes from top to bottom and straightened out the edges. As long as I was close (1/8") to my planed measurements I could live with a slight gap when the modules were installed.
After everything was close to the planed size and the edges were true I started work on one of the modules. First I added a strip of wood 1/2" wide and 7 1/2" long that was ripped from a 2x4 wall stud. This strip was added to the underside of the module. This strip is where I would be mounting the strike plate and other connectors for the module. I also installed the springs in the CP. At this point I checked the fit of the module in both holes and how well the springs worked and made adjustments. Next I took the other half of the 2x4 and mounted it on the CP on both holes. This piece will hold the door latch and CP connections.
I then took a 7/8" spade bit and drilled the holes for the door latch and strike plate on the right hole. Then moved the module to the left hole and drilled the hole for the door latch there. This way the two holes would be as identical as possible. I mounted the door latches and the strike plate. Next I tested the first module in both holes to make sure that everything worked and the door latches held against the springs. I also added a metal plate at the bottom of the hole to hold up that end of the module. Once I was satisfied with the fit in both holes I took a second module and repeated the strike plate installation. Then checked its fit into both holes. Everything worked perfectly and you see the results above.
How am I going to release the module after it is locked in place you ask. I purchased two square keys that fit the door latch when I got the rest of the hardware from Ace. These keys are basically two short rods with a square profile. These keys were fitted to wood levers and epoxied in place. Then I inserted the keys through the door latch holes and put more epoxy on the opposing side. Next my plans will be to drill a hole in the wood levers where a string will be attached and the other end will be attached to a handle outside the CP box. You pull on the string and the lever opens the door latch releasing the module.
That should do as far as an explaination. I know it is rather long winded but that is the "step by step" that I went through.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Just a thought about the string.
Wouldn't it be better to crimp some steel cabling or something of that nature instead of tying some string there?
I'm just thinking how much of a hassle it's going to be to replace the string if/when it stretches and breaks. It might run you about $5 or so for the cabling and the two to four crimps you'll need, but I imagine that's better than tearing apart your cab to get fix something.
That's just me though.
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I plan on having the CP swing open with hinges. This way it would be easy to make any repairs on the control panel.
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Looks good so far. But I too am not liking the string idea much, too Rube Goldberg'ish I guess. Maybe a piece of aluminum rod or something a little more rigid would work better. With a little lever setup you could convert the pull action into a pushbutton release.
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The throw of the button may be too much. I need the square key to rotate 90 degrees to fully retract the door latch. I am also going to need to thread my way around buttons and wire. Those latches are in the top portion of the CP where my admin buttons are going to be. As it is my admin buttons are going to have to move around anyway.
Thanks for the suggestions keep them coming. :cheers:
Kaytrim
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I just had a brainstorm. :dizzy:
The way that things are looking right now I don't have much room at the top of my CP for my admin buttons. The latch and spring hardware is taking up too much room. See the forth pic in my last set of pics above. Once you add a lever sticking out the top of the latch hardware and there is practically no room at all for buttons.
Keeping mind the theme of Frankenstein's Monster and the era that it comes from how about using an old skate key type of setup? Drill a hole in the CP above where the square key would be on the latch hardware. Then use the skate key to open the door so to speak.
See the pic below and please respond with your thoughts, I could use some input here. ;D
Kaytrim
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I'd route out underneath the panel top about half-way or more. Then instead of that clunky block of wood an all, use a couple small L-brackets for both axis of screws. (The same for the lock port.) If you want more than that, also make or find a small u- or saddle-shaped mounting bracket for the aft part of the lock.
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I'd be afraid of the MDF breaking down under the strain over time. That is why I went with the "clunky block of wood an all". I do plan to slim down the profile a bit so there is more room. I just need to figure out how.
Thanks for the input shorthair. :cheers:
Kaytrim
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You're welcome. A lot of people route their panels for sticks and they do fine. I'd think you could not route and yours would be just fine, too.
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It's not my sticks that I am worried about. I need space for my admin buttons which will go above the modules. Look at the image below and you will see what I mean. All the hardware for the locking mech is in the space where I need the admin buttons.
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Hmmm....perhaps you could invert the placement of the mechs? Though, that is a lot of admin buttons; using the shift function might be better, if you can't move the mechs.
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Not much room at the bottom only maybe 2". I'd have to measure to be sure. Not enough room for the door latch hardware which requires 3" min. I don't have a shift option either with the GPWiz card that I have. Randy is going to send me the new version of the GPWiz49 cards when they are finished. If I remember reading somewhere there is no shift option on those either, it was dropped for new functions. I don't know anything more than what he has posted on the boards.
The admin buttons are as follows.
White/Green -> Player start and coin
Red/Yellow/Green -> Quit Game/Pause/MAME Config
Red/White/Green -> Back/Scroll/Select (used in GameEx front end)
My end goal is to make this control panel as noob friendly/kid friendly as possible. That is why I am going to such lengths to make the modules easy to change and connect up when they are slapped into the CP. This cab gets the most use when we have friends over or when the kids need an extra computer for homework reasons. There will be a Keyboard and mouse on a tray under this CP box.
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Hi Kaytrim,
Here is an idea for you that I just thought up but I am not sure how practical it is for your layout.
I can see you are worried about latching the panels down. I had the same issue with my modular system but it is only the joysticks that are a problem. If they are not held down securely they can come out in gameplay which is most annoying to say the least.
The solution I used was to use a standard panel clamp for each joystick module. Works a treat but I can only put the joysticks in one of a few positions were I have the clamps. They are easy to reach from the underneath for securing and undoing on my cab. My modular system is very similar to Doc's, in fact it inspired what I did. The only difference is that I did not use the dowels as my woodworking skills are poor. I just used some runners. It should be clear from the pictures.
Anyway, this is not the *NEW* solution I had just thought up. You basically have two square shaped holes that you could drop control module boxes into rather than just mount panels onto.
I see the benefits as follows;
1) Innards of the module box are secure and any wiring cannot be knocked accidentally making a much more robust and child freindly solution.
2) The control panel receptacle itself should also have four walls giving rigidity to the whole structure. Once a box is dropped in it is going nowhere even without any additonal latching mechanisms.
3) Boxes are easy to build out of wood.
4) The connectors could be a push fit male molex type recessed to the base of the box. A corresponding female molex will be inside the box on the control panel. Drop the module box in and you ave instant mating connections. No RJ45 and flying leads needed.
5) Put a notch on one side of the box so that it can only be inserted the correct way. Again child freindly
You can get the molex connectors with around 20 pins. Enough for all of the switch inputs, USB, optical and analogue connections you could need.
Hope this triggers off some new thoughts.
Cheers
Muzland
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How close is the bottom of your monitor to the top of your cp? Basically what I'm asking is can you slant your admin panel so it looks somewhat like this crude ASCII drawing:
\___
You probably don't even need that much of a slant, just enough to clear your locking mech. It's just an idea I thought I would throw out there.
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Hi again Kaytrim,
I should say that the major problem I have with the Doc type modules I have made is the fact that you have to be really careful when handling them so that you don't accidentally damage any of the wires/connections. It's a real pain when this happens.
It also makes it guest unfriendly to the point that I rarely let people change the panels. It is also fiddly messing around with pluging in RJ45's and making sure they put them in the right place, not to mention the rats nest of wires you get with several modules.
This is why I like the box approach. Much more robust and user friendly. One day I will mod my cab for this.
I have been racking my brains for ages now on how I could have a modular box based approach but not be constrained by having to put the modules in a particular position. No solution yet apart from each module would have to be the same size as the connectors are the big issue as I want them to connect as I insert the module for ease of use.
The best I have come up with (and it is not really workable) is to use LEGO ;D. Don't laugh as this is not as daft as it sounds. Imagine one of my panels in the pictures above having the internals of the joystick enclosed in a box. On the underside, at 90 degrees to where the runners currently are you would have a piece of lego the entire length of the module. Each of the bumps in the LEGO runner would be wired to a conductive contact (providing approx 30 unique contact points). These would mate with the base of the CP with contacts running the entire length of the CP that were again at 90 degrees to the ones on the module.
This would allow you to place the modules in any position. Each of the 30 contact runners on the CP would be mapped to a specific input on the IPAC, OPTIPAC, APAC, USB, etc. Each module box would wire to the relevant LEGO contact. Push them together and hey presto!
I got the LEGO idea from the guy on the boards who built a cabinet completely from LEGO!
Besides the practicality of using LEGO (there must be a better way), to support 28 inputs for an IPAC, another 6 for an OPTIPAC, 4 for USB and god knows how many for an APAC, the CP depth would need to be quite big. You would need all of these to make it truly flexible and able to cater for any eventuality....
I really like what you have done with your panel. Another downside of Doc style modular system is that you don't get fancy CP overlays. Your system still has the abilty to decorate your panel to your hearts content. Lucky I like the all black look ;)
This is in no way a dig at Doc's approach. After all I used it myself. I am always looking for ways to improve the ease of use of my cab that do not cost the earth. I am not a fan of Frankenpanels on narrow cabs.
Anyway, brainstorming over. Here are a before and after picture of my cab.
Muzland
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How close is the bottom of your monitor to the top of your cp? Basically what I'm asking is can you slant your admin panel so it looks somewhat like this crude ASCII drawing:
\___
You probably don't even need that much of a slant, just enough to clear your locking mech. It's just an idea I thought I would throw out there.
John,
That is the way that things are now on my test cab and it is not the prettiest solution. This why I am moving them to the main CP.
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Hi Kaytrim,
Here is an idea for you that I just thought up but I am not sure how practical it is for your layout.
I can see you are worried about latching the panels down. I had the same issue with my modular system but it is only the joysticks that are a problem. If they are not held down securely they can come out in gameplay which is most annoying to say the least.
This is why the joysticks will be permanently mounted. With the GGG GPWiz49 V2 and my Midway 49-way sticks. I can handle most any joystick type except topfire and rotary. I can get a rotary switch to fit my sticks and they will work with the GPWiz49. At least that is how the current version of the interface works if I get an adapter card. So the only type of joystick that I cannot easily emulate is the topfire sticks. IIRC the only games that use a topfire are tank type games. I can emulate that with three buttons up, down and fire or mount a topfire stick on a module.
Anyway, this is not the *NEW* solution I had just thought up. You basically have two square shaped holes that you could drop control module boxes into rather than just mount panels onto.
I see the benefits that you mention in fact items 4 and 5 can be combined. However, one issue that I see is how do I get the box out after it is put in the CP?
The best I have come up with (and it is not really workable) is to use LEGO ;D. Don't laugh as this is not as daft as it sounds. Imagine one of my panels in the pictures above having the internals of the joystick enclosed in a box. On the underside, at 90 degrees to where the runners currently are you would have a piece of lego the entire length of the module. Each of the bumps in the LEGO runner would be wired to a conductive contact (providing approx 30 unique contact points). These would mate with the base of the CP with contacts running the entire length of the CP that were again at 90 degrees to the ones on the module.
This idea has merit especially when combined with the module box approach you mentioned earlier. However it would take a quite a bit of planning and laying out all the possible connections. For the button panel I am planing on using 7 buttons two with the same function, there is 7 connections, 6 buttons plus the ground. Then add single color LEDs 8 connections, 1 for each button plus ground. Now think about the RGB LEDs that is 3 connections for each button, 21 connections plus 1 ground. Now I agree even that will give me more than I can effectively handle currently. This gives a max number of connections at 30, 6 button connections, 21 RGB LED and 2 ground.
To simplify the solution I could just purchase a GPWiz, LEDWiz and a 2.0 USB hub for each module. That way I would only have one USB connection for each box. Simple but not financially practical ~$75 each module.
I really like what you have done with your panel. Another downside of Doc style modular system is that you don't get fancy CP overlays. Your system still has the ability to decorate your panel to your hearts content. Lucky I like the all black look ;)
Thanks, my plan is to have different artwork for each module and tie it into the CP artwork using 'stiches'. ;D
I want to thank everyone so far for your input on the modules. This is turning into a more complicated project that I had anticipated. I have cleaned up the hardware around the module holes and I will post pics later. I am going to use the 'skate key' method mentioned above to release the locks on the modules.
Now I need to turn our collective brain power to the issue mentioned by muzland. How to connect the modules to the GPWiz, GPWiz49 and USB interfaces. I tried to use the CAT5 connectors (RJ45) but they would not line up when a module was put onto the CP. Keep in mind that the module uses the edge closest to the player as a hinge point. See the image of the module popped up above to get the idea. With this being the case we are dealing with an arc not a line when inserting a module.
As it is getting late I will sign off for the night. Thanks again for the help everyone.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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I think that I just found a solution to all my problems with these modules. Here is a nice little lock that I found while looking for "knock down fittings".
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=941-831&LARGEVIEW=ON (http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=941-831&LARGEVIEW=ON)
Here is another option
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=941-817&LARGEVIEW=ON (http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=941-817&LARGEVIEW=ON)
I got the search idea from another thread I don't remember which one now. I believe that it was NickG that mentioned it so credit goes to him.
I can put one of these little bad boys at the top and one at the bottom along with the spring pins that I have, I'll have to make 4 more. Then all I have to do is push the module straight into place, no hinge point and these locks will make sure that everything lines up and doesn't move. I could even use the box method that muzland mentioned to protect all the wires and controls. I just have to wait a bit before I place my order. I'll need 8 of these for starters so I might as well get 10 to get the full volume discount.
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Below are the pics of my current CP underside setup. This is after slimming down the profiles a bit. After reading my previous post this will more than likely all change. The line drawn here shows the inside line of the CP box showing the area that I have to work with. Sorry about the focus of the full CP I didn't realize it until I got the pic prepared for posting.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Remembering you saying the sticks were gonna be permanetly mounted, I'm not sure where you're going to put them; is that pic from the 'other' side of the panel? Also, the links go to a plain page of that site - no products.
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Remembering you saying the sticks were gonna be permanetly mounted, I'm not sure where you're going to put them; is that pic from the 'other' side of the panel? Also, the links go to a plain page of that site - no products.
Yes, the pics I posted today are of the underside of the CP. The sticks will be on the left side of the module holes. Look at the diagram I posted 2/27/07 here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=63184.msg635914#msg635914) for the stick placement. I click on the links that I posted this morning and they take me to the product page.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
Here are the pics;
(http://www.woodworker.com/images/ss/941-831.jpg)
(http://www.woodworker.com/images/ss/941-817.jpg)
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Hi Kaytrim,
I have done some more research on the connector issue and there is a very elegant and cheap solution!
Veroboard - See the picture attached.
This stuff is cheap as it is used for prototyping PCB's. The beauty of these boards is that the are arranged in long conductor strips. They can be boaught from any electronic bits retailer.
Mount a board inside your CP in each of the holes where your modules are going. Solder wires to each of the long strips and wire these to your keyboard encoder. Each strip in then a unique input. Mount another one on the underside of the drop in modules (oriented the same way) and solder wires to the desired conductor strip and connect these to the controls in the module.
Now put a blob of solder on each of the conductor strips on the module. Now when you insert your module into the CP the blobs of solder simply need to touch the conductor strips in the veroboard mounted in the CP. Hey presto you have electrical connections.
If you spring mount the veroboard that is mounted in the CP then you should get really good connections.
What do you think?
I am off to source some veroboards as I only have one at the moment.
Regards
Muzland
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The Lego idea is really rocking. Plus I can just see my little kid trying to use the panel as a base for his/her Legos. Another thing to look at could be using DUPLO blocks instead. The bigger nubs might resist the abuse better.
But I see one minor problem. Let's simply the problem for illustrative purposes. If I understand what you're saying, each row of blocks represents a conducting rail. For Shits and giggles, let's imagine we have an imaginary giant 30 x * block where each row of nubs represents a rail. So using our crude electrical example we have something like this....
1 ------------------------------------------------
2 ------------------------------------------------
3 ------------------------------------------------
4 ------------------------------------------------
.
.
.
30 ------------------------------------------------
Where each numbered rail represents a connection to the controller.
Now if we place a joystick block on the rail to the left. It would (arbitrarily) tap into rails 1 - 4 for player one controls. Then we drop in a 2nd block for buttons tapping into rails 5 - 12, then a third block for player 2 controls which should tap into rails 13 - 16. However we have a problem, if P1 joystick box is made identical to P2 joystick box, it would tap into rails 1 - 4, not 13 - 16 like it should. If you make P1 and P2 joystick different, it wouldn't be "guest" friendly because they would then have to figure out where to place each joystick.
If this is what you have in mind. The only solution I can think of at the moment is a toggling system for P2.
Let's say you go with the rail system. Add an additional two rails 1/2 way across the panel from the left to the center. Any box that touches this rail modifies the internal circuitry to use the P1 specific rails. If it makes no contact, then it uses P2 rails. The drawback is you might have problems with single player configurations and you'll have to be careful on the sizes of the boxes.
I've got a couple of other ideas to handle this but they all center around the same basic principle. Such as a left-right notching system using spring loaded switches ???
I'm a tad behind on my LEGO knowledge. The last LEGOs I had, they were just coming out with the powered bricks. I just checked the website and I couldn't find any place where you could just buy the older style powered bricks, nor could I find any place to individually buy the bricks used in the Mindstorm kits. :(
It's a damn good idea though, I'll keep researching it to see if I want to use it rather than my original idea.
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You could use the strips idea, if you split it in the center of the CP. This way you have you connections running from side to side on the CP and the individual panel would connect to the players controls associated with the right half or left half of the panel. Each pair of control modules could be identical and the only thing the user would have to know is that player 1 is on the left and player 2 is on the right.
I am pretty sure that this system would work, if I am understanding the first half of the idea, if not I am sure it would work with the way that I am picturing it. If it needs some clairification let me know.
Later,
Brian
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It would work, but the design might exclude specific panel layouts, like a Galaga style.
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Hi All,
SavannahLion makes a good point and one I had not considered.
bfauska provides one really simply solution. Split it in the middle if it is a truly modular panel system to provide left and right.
Not sure what you mean by Galaga style as this game was a horizontal 2 way with one button. SO no issues there. If you mean the button is on the right had side then simply remap it in MAME for that game.
I can see potentially the same kind of problems with say a Defender layout but again the mapping would resolve this.
Neither of these issues will be a problem for Kaytrim as he would have two separate veroboards (one for each module position in the CP).
The obvious solutions to this kind of problem are probably the best. Label up your panels to say P1 or P2. This does not need to be on a part of the control module box that is visible once inserted. Or colour code them for the kiddies with matching colour on the CP.
Veroboard: So far I have found some with 44 conducting rails. This is all in a space envelope of 95mm. A normal panel is around 11 to 12" deep from the front to back so you could easily accommodate 2 of these for 88 conductors! I think that is probably enough for whatever you need. The longest I have seen the panels is 127mm so 8 boards would be needed for the cp for a 24" wide CP with 88 conductors. Each module would also need some veroboard but 1 board could be cut to do 4 or 5 modules easily. Still very cost effective. Each board is around £3 here in the UK, so around $6 US. It cost me £30+ for my RJ45 solution and a lot of wiring.
One other issue I think we have with this is how we join the boards together to provide long continuous conducting rails. You want the top conducting surface flat so we get a good contact with each of the modules. I will think on this one. Maybe there are really long boards out these. By the way they are sometimes referred to as stripboards rather than veroboard if people are having difficulty finding them.
Cheers
Muzland
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I made a little progress tonight on the CP. I finalized the release. I started with a window lock kit for Lowes. This kit is for the old casement windows. What you do is drill a hole through the to casements and insert the screw with a special key. In pic 1 you see the kit backer card and one of the screws. In pic 2 you see the underside of my CP where I have used my favorite epoxy again to glue the screw to the latch mech. In pic 3 you see the key and screw head. The head is completely round except for a small flat spot that the key fits. I have a .mov file of the relase in action but I cannot upload it right now due to the size. I'll try to convert it to an .avi file and upload it later.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Kaytrim,
The CP is looking great man. It is gonna be sooooo FRANKIN' too.
Keep up the charge on the project... :cheers:
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I saw this, it's a finger guard for metal cases. I initially thought I could mount this as part of a contact system, but it's really thin so I didn't think it would hold up under use. Maybe someone else could have better ideas. (http://www.halted.com/objects/catalog/product/image/20520.JPG)
Maybe use that in conjuction with muzlands idea for veroboard?
I think the veroboard would be better applied as an edgecard connector. I'm having a ---smurfette--- of a time finding anyone locally that sells veroboard or stripboard. Most everyone sells perfboard or, if you're really lucky, TriPads. It's like this ---smurfing--- city doesn't want anyone to learn electronics properly. Everything I've found is so half-assed.
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See the release in action. Due to the size of this little 10 second video I uploaded it to YouTube. Here is the URL http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WQ3XIcnbPM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WQ3XIcnbPM)
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Yeah, I think that works pretty good. If you're going to put plexi or lexan over the CP, then it'll make for a nice natural recession of the turn stud.
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I have been trying to make all my connections on the latch side of the module. Nothing is working 100% at this point. I just had a brainstorm and would like to bounce it off everyone here. How about using an edge connector like what is on a JAMMA board. Only place the connector at the opposet side from the latch. This way you plug in the edge connector then latch the module in place. I'll try to create some rough drawings to show what I mean.
*Edit*
Image below
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Does anybody have any thoughts on this connector style? ? ??? ?
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You mean like how NES console/carts worked?
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You mean like how NES console/carts worked?
Yep ;D I found some connectors (http://www.mouser.com/search/Refine.aspx?Ne=1447464+254016+688546&N=1323038+4294926812&Ntt=*3M*+*.050*+*Boardmount*+*Connectors*&Mpcn=51757&Mpc=3M+.050+Boardmount+Connectors&Msb=0&Mkw=3M+.050+Boardmount+Connectors) in my Mouser Electronics catalog that have from 20 to 100 contacts. So the options are endless. With these I could even use GGG Electric ICE buttons. :dizzy:
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Looks like a fancy IDE cable. Unless your looking for a snap in without reaching in and plugging in the cable.
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... snap in without reaching in and plugging in the cable.
That is the idea. 8)
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I'd be leery of breaking the fingerboard...
What you are looking for is referred to as a blind mating connector. I've never used one, but perhaps this would be a good search term. Check out the mini-fit BMI-
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T071/P0163.pdf (http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T071/P0163.pdf)
Also, I remember from back in the day racing RC cars, that some people used blind mating with power connectors for quick changing the batteries. I don't have any links about this, but maybe that could be a lead for you.
Also, my megatouch uses a blind mating connector on the coin 'door' for the coin switch. One of the connectors is hard mounted, while the other can float a bit.
Rick
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Wow, very cool ideas going around. Not sure how I missed this thread. The tabbed strip is a cool idea.
I too have a modular panel but I used a few different things (altough I use CAT5 and am very happy with it). Mine is rock solid and I don't have issues with tolerances. The Robotron story mentioned is a big reason why I built mine the way I did. I'm am not a, um, gentle Robotron player. :dizzy: :)
~telengard
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So how did you control the vertical, as it were? Did you just hook the back under, as in Doc's instructions, or did you have some form of positive lock for the control panels?
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So how did you control the vertical, as it were? Did you just hook the back under, as in Doc's instructions, or did you have some form of positive lock for the control panels?
Mine are screwed down on rack rails. They do not move AT ALL. And since the modules are just rack blanker panels I have no issues with tolerances. The holes and width etc are perfect. I did however have to get the other ends done since my control panel is somewhat small (the plus is I get two modules per blanker panel). These are 19" long which may be too much for most control panels. The different widths helps too for holding different controls.
I also don't have the woodworking skills or patience to try and cut good fitting wood blocks etc so to me this was the way to go. I previously had swappable panels and that was good, but modular is much much better from a usability standpoint, maintainence, and storage.
My design has trade-offs which are ok with me. Swapping modules is probably a little bit more effort, although I keep a cordless screwdriver nearby and it's quite quick. Any modular panel is going to take some time to swap modules though and plug them in etc.
All the details are here :)
http://users.adelphia.net/~bsturk/mame/controls.html
~telengard
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From reading this thread, it sounds like what you want is a blind mate connector for the electrical connections. The modular panels are locked with hardware, and the electrical connections automatically align themselves when the panels are locked. Read this:
http://www.eepn.com/Locator/Products/Index.cfm?Ad=1&ArticleID=32336
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From reading this thread, it sounds like what you want is a blind mate connector for the electrical connections. The modular panels are locked with hardware, and the electrical connections automatically align themselves when the panels are locked. Read this:
http://www.eepn.com/Locator/Products/Index.cfm?Ad=1&ArticleID=32336
Thank you for the link. This sounds like it is exactly what I am looking for.
Sorry about the lack of updates. Real life is holding up all construction including that on my bartop project for my Dad. I hope that things will settle down in another month or so. Then I can get back at construction and problem solving.
I may dump the current locking mechinisim in favor for something that uses much less real estate.
TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim
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Hey Kaytrim,
Was there any more progress on this panel? I have recently started construction on my own semi-modular panel (thread here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=75625.0)), and I had no idea that this thread existed. My idea was very similar to yours, in that not everything would be modular. In mine there will be only three module bays, and a module will contain the entire joystick/button assembly (or trackball, or wheel, etc.).
Anyway, I was struggling with some of the same quick-connect and panel mounting issues that you were considering. While I haven't yet finalized my panel interlock design, I decided to abandon the self-plugging connectors in favor of CAT5 cables manually plugged in inside the CP box. It just seemed that the complexity and real-estate needed for the self-plugging connectors was going to mean my panel may never be finished.
So did you make any progress?
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Hasn't been anything since my last post. I have been too busy with real life and my stick building business. I should get busy with it though. My son is bugging me about the trackball which is out of commission until I finish this panel.
I am following your progress though. I would suggest that you have separate panels for your sticks and buttons. This way you can change your setup as you need for the game you wish to play. There are games where both players use two sticks, some require rotating sticks and some require a fire button on the stick. Button setups are also different depending on the game.
TTFN
Kaytrim