The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: vader on November 02, 2006, 12:36:29 am
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I picked this up from a friend who said it wasn't working.... not powering up.
He thought it was a WG 9200 ,but seems that it is not. I noticed that it is
missing a fuse and there isn't a connector connected in anything ( black/red wire )
This is a monitor used in a bowling alley, it is brand new. It's branded as a
Fancy FG-2931 w/ a LG tube. I can't find any info on it at all. It does have
a VGA connector and I'm hoping it's on par with a WG or Betson. Can anyone
point me in the direction of what this is
Thanks
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Looks kind of like a Neotec.
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A quick google search on the model number FQ-2301 reveals that it is actually one of these:
http://www.hkbdsm.com/shop/eng/shop/productsimg.php?cid=63&pid=185&cart_id=2006080405454383181194654212
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A quick google search on the model number FQ-2301 reveals that it is actually one of these:
http://www.hkbdsm.com/shop/eng/shop/productsimg.php?cid=63&pid=185&cart_id=2006080405454383181194654212
:banghead:
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was it used as an overhead scorer and also what bowling company,brunswick or amf-its just depending on who the bowling company is usually points towards what monitor they use.i work for a brunswick bowl,we use ceronix monitors(which i hate)
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was it used as an overhead scorer and also what bowling company,brunswick or amf-its just depending on who the bowling company is usually points towards what monitor they use.i work for a brunswick bowl,we use ceronix monitors(which i hate)
overhead scorer, AMF
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it looks like its distributed by www.champscan.com,they have a contact tab so maybe worth getting in touch with them,i have never heard of it
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it looks like its distributed by www.champscan.com,they have a contact tab so maybe worth getting in touch with them,i have never heard of it
thanks , here are the specs.... should I be able to get it working with a AVGA
FG-2931/R 29" 0.83mm 640X480 31.5KHz 50-90Hz
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i'm not very up on mame stuff but your monitor is a 31k and the arcade vga is 15k,but i am sure if you email the avga guy he will point you in the right direction(ultimarc i think)
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Ok....have it powering now......
but, I have a solid line across it horizontially. The control board was damaged and I replace the
knobs with the correct resistance one, anything I can do to test.
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perhaps there is damage to the track on the control board as well,you gonna need to meter continuity on all the tracks and cables,whereabouts is the red/black connector that you said was disconnected
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perhaps there is damage to the track on the control board as well,you gonna need to meter continuity on all the tracks and cables,whereabouts is the red/black connector that you said was disconnected
IMAGE 3599 Upper side.... green/black/white is the power as I'm sure you know. Red/black have a type of molex
connector
these are pics of the control board, I'm trying to find a new one
forgot to add..... the line happens when I connect a video source to it
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i can see bad solder joints on p400 try resoldering these first
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i can see bad solder joints on p400 try resoldering these first
ok, while I'm taking care of those , R303 and R504 looks like their bridge.... I don't know if you
can read the traces from the pic, but is that right ?
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sorry i did not understand the last post about the bridge
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I wasn't very clear. R305 and 504 look like they have two of their soldier points connected. Basically, 3 legs and 2 of the legs are connected
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yeah looks o.k
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Check all the joints...... the line is extremely bright....any more suggestions
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Well as far as connecting an AVGA I don’t think that’s going to fly. It looks like that’s basically a 29” VGA monitor ( AKA PC monitor). That would make for a nice PC monitor if it was anything higher then VGA. AVGA will only work with CGA monitors. What video signal are you trying to send it? Anyways to me it looks like you have a horizontal collapse problem.
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The "NT" prefix on the remote board give this away as a Neotec monitor. This is not a model I have seen though since you say it's from a bowling alley. I understand that Neotec does indeed manufacture monitors for this purpose so I would suggest you contact Neotec (www.neotecgraphic.com) for more information. BTW, you have VERTICAL collapse on your monitor.
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The "NT" prefix on the remote board give this away as a Neotec monitor. This is not a model I have seen though since you say it's from a bowling alley. I understand that Neotec does indeed manufacture monitors for this purpose so I would suggest you contact Neotec (www.neotecgraphic.com) for more information. BTW, you have VERTICAL collapse on your monitor.
from everything I've read, I figured it was collapse. I checked everything on the remote board, all traces and they have continuity on them, so it seems ok. So the collapse seems to be elsewhere. Other things I could try ? Please talk to me like a idiot, because I'm not so good with monitors ... I'm going to search neotec monitors now
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ken is perfectly correct about the verticle collapse but i believe it was caused by damage to the remote board,so if your remote board is perfect then you should turn your attention to the main chassis and check for dry solder joints,+25 volt to the frame i/c or the frame i/c itself
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I'm going to contact NeoTec when they open today to see if they offer a replacement board. I may very well have missed something when test the remote board. I've noticed identical controls on the chassis, so if I disconnect the remote board all together, will those controls takeover ?
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usually when the remote is disconnected you get a frame collapse or no monitor start up,i don't know why you have identical controls on the main chassis,it don't make sense
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Neotec wired those controls on the main board in SERIES with the remote board controls. The controls on the main board were designed to be used as "fine tuning" adjustments in conjunction with the remote adjustments. Unpluging the remote board will not work.
Neotec should have replacement remote boards in stock. You'll probably have to email them pictures of the remote board and maybe the main chassis too. Neotec can sell you a service manual for that monitor once it's actual model number has been established.
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called neotec and they didn't recongnize the model number. I'll try again and send pictures
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why did'nt you contact the company i suggested,they are in NY and have contact nos
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why did'nt you contact the company i suggested,they are in NY and have contact nos
I did contact them....they are very far from helpful by any means
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spoke to NeoTec and he asked me me how many pots were on the card and then asked me to send a pic, said they most likely have a board that will work ;D I hope it's the only problem
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Don't know if this is any more help, but I found a manufacturer ..... Fan Shaing Electronics ... are they a distributor... I've been googling myself to death
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its disgusting that a company will not help in any way,what exactly did the company say.
they should be ashamed and furthermore we and others should not buy their product and should let it be known
crap service-crap product
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I don't know if it's that they don't want to help or if it's a language barrier when speaking to them
verbally. They are of some asian dissent, but they seem to understand. I emailed them hoping
to get a answer, but my mailed bounced back.
I have a feeling this is a very minor problem to fix, but I may take to a TV store if I can't get info
from these companies.
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i thought they were in new york not new delhi,i get the email bounce with ceronix so they can get stuffed and i just replace with a good company
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i thought they were in new york not new delhi,i get the email bounce with ceronix so they can get stuffed and i just replace with a good company
Their in NY, but luck of the draw and I'm getting asians to talk to. I've found a company that makes the flyback
for the monitor and they thing it may be WG, but not sure. I'm going to get up the courage and discharge
the monitor and hope there is something silk screened on the bottom of the chassis
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Took the chassis out and no luck with a model number. Hopefully it is a better look for you guys. You will see the red/black molex plug and I have no idea where that plugs in.
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ken is perfectly correct about the verticle collapse but i believe it was caused by damage to the remote board,so if your remote board is perfect then you should turn your attention to the main chassis and check for dry solder joints,+25 volt to the frame i/c or the frame i/c itself
I have no idea what a frame IC is, much less how to test it. On the bright side, I discharged a monitor ;D
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You will see the red/black molex plug and I have no idea where that plugs in.
That's not power?
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You will see the red/black molex plug and I have no idea where that plugs in.
That's not power?
Goes back to where a couple capacitors are shown on the pcb. (look at one of the other pics) ??? Could be low voltage power of some sort. I've heard of that on some models. (none I've messed with)
I have no idea what a frame IC is, much less how to test it. On the bright side, I discharged a monitor ;D
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You will see the red/black molex plug and I have no idea where that plugs in.
That's not power?
Goes back to where a couple capacitors are shown on the pcb. (look at one of the other pics) ??? Could be low voltage power of some sort. I've heard of that on some models. (none I've messed with)
I have no idea what a frame IC is, much less how to test it. On the bright side, I discharged a monitor ;D
I guess I should test for dry solder joints on those ?
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Well, I just reflowed solder over every single connection to take that out of the equation. Still the same outcome.
One thing that happens if this helps narrow things down. When I have the main connect connected on the control board, it displays a solid blue line, very bright, when connecteed with all 3 connectors, it's a blue line with a 3 inch green line in the middle.
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The guy I got this from is going to let me borrow a control board to see if it's the issue. Should have thought to call him earlier.....
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thats a good idea
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New board... same problem, off to the tv shop tomorrow