The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: sealslayer on September 29, 2006, 11:14:57 am
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I'm sure there are some professional carpenters who build cabs, I'm wondering if there is a correct way to build them as opposed to a amateur like myself who thinks he is building it as it should be built.
I'm more concerned with the actual structure and its sturdiness, I'm at the stage where I'll be fixing my outer panels to the sides.
Should these be screwed directly to the internal battons or should they be joined with plastic connectors?
How where the old original machines built, did they have a large internal frame or was it just joined together by the panels?
Lots of questions I know, I really want to the best job I possibly can
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The first most important rule is safety. We've seen a few accidents around here. Your dealing with power tools, heavy material, and potential toxic particulates.
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One more thing...
It's not necessary, but I've always used an internal frame of some sort. Gives me that comfy sturdy feeling that helps me sleep better at night...
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simple blocking, glue and staples is all it takes to assemble a cabinet. You're not building a house after all.. almost all of the classic cabinets used this construction, when was the last time you heard of one of those that had not been water damaged falling apart?
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I've also seen a lot of cabinets using dado joints, blocks, glue and staples. That's not going to fall apart. I personally like dado, blocks, glue and screws. But I have built cabinets without dados and I couldn't tell the difference.
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Wood blocks all the way with glue and nails or screws.
I've never found it necessary to use an internal frame.
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Those who are saying an internal frame isn't necessary are correct. I just don't have the skill\confidence to do it without an internal frame. I may be building a bartop soon and I'll try that without a frame but I built a jukebox and showcase cabinet that both used an internal frame.
It's definetly for my peice of mind and matches my confidence level. The OP should do the same.
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfe3aJNq1Usv0w5Vdf1r0yG3o9nQsjxaEBUCLyc-hq82NVhNxwu3_zjwb_9inR21kCH5aMQ_w388ZK98ifeVbHvhm3JKM09Ttp9myXQyfdexWAJ-twjzrwdE)
This is the part of the cabinet that holds the TV.
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfe3aJNq1Usv0868ld0RXBx9mGQrZQXvVONHjXKGHoiROM60jW_Xb6bARL8I_qDQjul7NDxZvUxs2t7oEIdRRfKeShcWbao-StCuzqL4gNmwlFduEVrlN0fV)
The beginning of the jukebox.
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I blocked mine out and built a nice little platform out of 2x4s and 1x8s to hold the TV-I think a full-on frame for the whole thing is overkill. Hell, I think my TV platform is overkill-don't think I'd go that far if I built it again.
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I didn't use a frame per se, but I did use some pine lengths to join MDF together at 90 degrees.
Here in Brisbane it gets very humid. Almost every store-bought cabinet (bookshelves, etc) I own seem to fall apart in a few years due to the high humidity. Anything that screw attaches to MDF without some sort of reinforcement will disintegrate in a short time around here.
Plus my mates are pretty rough with my cab (any game they play results in the entire thing jumping around the place despite weighing well over 100KG) so I went for the extra strength.
http://benchmark.mameworld.net/cab1/
The "Materials" and "Images" page will have plenty of data on the construction part.'
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Blocks, glue and a nail gun from the inside.
No external holes to fill and sand.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-10/1096868/IMG_2788(Small).jpg)