The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: severdhed on September 07, 2006, 10:50:37 pm
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well, everytime i needed t use a router on my cabinet in the past, i used the router attachment for my dremmel. It works fine, it is just small and takes a long time. So this time when building a new control panel, i borrowed a real router from my friend. So i go to work routing out the wood so i can mount my trackball, i get about half way done and realize that my entire basement is completely covered in sawdust, and there is a big cloud everywhere. by that point it was too late to make a difference, so i just finished...but i learned a valuable lesson today...never use a router indoors. It is going to take hours to go through and clean everything now :(
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*heh* Yeah, even working outside a router still makes a huge mess.
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Yeah, nothing makes a big ass mess in a hurry like a router. I always use mine outside.
-S
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Dust collection of some sort is a must with a router if you wish to use it indoors. Don't worry, you'll be finding dust on stuff long after you're done with your project to remind you of this fact ;)
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:laugh2:
I did the same thing with a table saw :angel:
Wife was EVER so Pissed.
Thanks for the heads up.
I have a router. Never used it yet. i am sure I would have tried it inside.
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My router(s- yes. 4 of them...) is my favorite woodworking tool. It's the most versatile tool in my shop. A complete arcade cabinet can be made with only a router and a few bits. I wouldn't recommend it that way, but it can be done.
With that being said, collecting dust at it's source is the most efficient way of working, indoors or out. My router has a port for a shop-vac hose and it collects 90% of any dust from cutting. Plan ahead of time and nip it at it's source.
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I also have many routers. The one that gets the most use is my laminate trimmer. Its like a hand held router and good for most projects I do which I cant use the router table for. For large projects like t-molding on my arcade cabinet I broke out the larger router.
Though laminate trimmers make just as much dust as full sized routers.
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If its so versatile, why do you need four?
(send me one?)
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If its so versatile, why do you need four?
(send me one?)
Because I am a tool addict.
No, seriously, Each of my routers has it's purpose. I have a 3 1/4HP Porter Cable 7518 as a dedicated router table router, the 2 1/4HP triton plunge router for plunging applications (like making joystick recesses), a Bosch 1617evspk kit; this is my most used router until I complete my router table. It's one of my favorite. My other router is a porter cable 694vk kit. This is a great router and was the first I purchased. It's main use now is for my circle cutting jig.
Expensive? Yes. Very. But these routers will likely be the only ones I have for the remainder of my woodworking career. I do still want a laminate trimmer though...
If I had plans to only build one or two joysticks and maybe an arcade cabinet, I'd easily be able to get by with one. In fact, most general woodworkers can get by with a kit (plunge and fixed base), but like I said, I'm a tool addict...
I have plans to build a lot of things so I figure why not? All this talk makes me want my laminate trimmer more now...
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I'm a router noob as well and was wondering if it is possible to bore pushbutton holes use a plunging router? If so what bit would you use. The reason I ask is I don't have a drill press and from past experience using a handheld drill causes some holes to slant slightly. Perhaps I'm just being overly picky. Any ideas. Thanks.
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I'm a router noob as well and was wondering if it is possible to bore pushbutton holes use a plunging router?
Hmm, that's an interesting idea. Is it recommended to plunge all the way through material, as suggested?
I haven't quite got to the point where I need to drill push button holes yet, but when I do, I'm also without a drill press, and so will be relying on my ability to gauge 90 degree angles while holding my drill by hand. :) Hopefully that turns out OK.
The router is probably my favorite power tool. It just seems to be able to do so much so easily.
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I'm a router noob as well and was wondering if it is possible to bore pushbutton holes use a plunging router? If so what bit would you use. The reason I ask is I don't have a drill press and from past experience using a handheld drill causes some holes to slant slightly. Perhaps I'm just being overly picky. Any ideas. Thanks.
Yes it is possible. The router bit you'd need would either be a spiral upcut bit (basically a router bit designed like a drill bit), or a bit with a plunge boring center. In all honesty, drilling your button holes with a router is definately doable, but drill about 20-30 practice holes with a hand drill and holding it 90 degrees will become second nature. If you really are that picky with 90 degree holes, then by all means get a drill press. It's much more efficient than a router for drilling holes. In fact, a drill press is on my wish list...
But for now I'm having no trouble drilling 90 degree holes with my hand drill. The router bits mentioned above are a bit more expensive than their normal cutting counterparts. I say take that and put it towards a decend drill press. A 10" or 12" model will be fine. All this talk of tools makes my credit card finger itchy...must....resist....
Hmm, that's an interesting idea. Is it recommended to plunge all the way through material, as suggested?
I haven't quite got to the point where I need to drill push button holes yet, but when I do, I'm also without a drill press, and so will be relying on my ability to gauge 90 degree angles while holding my drill by hand. :) Hopefully that turns out OK.
The router is probably my favorite power tool. It just seems to be able to do so much so easily.
As long as you're using the right router bit you can drill all the way through with no problems. But like I said, drilling some practice holes in scrap will do you good. You'll be holding the drill at 90 effortless.
Indeed, the router is my favorite tool as well. Nothing matches it's versatility.
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A tabletop drill press isn't that much money and is useful to have.
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A tabletop drill press isn't that much money and is useful to have.
Exactly. You can get an 8" (will drill to the center of a 16" workpiece) for about $60. They range from $100-$300 in the 10"-12" range. Get the one that meets your minimum requirements.
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If you have a shop vac and a buddy you can have them hold the vac next to where your cutting and it'll grab all the dust for you.
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Some of the better routers actually have dust ports. Some work great and some are just ok. The bosch and triton routers both have built in dust collection (the bosch is seperate though) and both work great.
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Look for methods to enclose the base on both sides if you're going to utilize the dust ports. Sounds obvious, but there's some manufacturers that will skimp on something as simple as a second gate or cover for the openings in the side of the base to improve dust collection.
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Look for methods to enclose the base on both sides if you're going to utilize the dust ports. Sounds obvious, but there's some manufacturers that will skimp on something as simple as a second gate or cover for the openings in the side of the base to improve dust collection.
Very true. A dust port on a porter cable 690 is laughable at best. Both sides are oper during the cut.
Routers that have good dust collection:
Triton 2 1/4 HP plunge router
Bosch 1617EVS
Porter Cable 890 series
DeWalt 621 plunge router, 618 series
For more on routers check out this man's site. He is the godfather of router woodworking. Not everything on his site will apply to you, but you will walk away with a lot more knowledge than what you entered with.
www.patwarner.com (http://www.patwarner.com)
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I drill all of my button holes with a hand drill, and they may not be perfect, but i am happy with how they turned out.
on a side note, the router attachment for the dremel is a handy piece of equipment also, it is small, so it isnt reccomended for large routing tasks (took like 30min to route out a place for my trackball). but it's small size can also be an advantage. i was going to use a regular router to round over the edges of my control panel, but it was just too much, it didnt look right, but with the tiny dremel bit, it just rounds over the very edge, it is subtle and much better looking. The small size makes it nice for getting into areas where a real router is a tight fit...and it doesnt through dust around like a real router. It makes a bit of a mess, but not too much...i would use it indoors again.
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i was going to use a regular router to round over the edges of my control panel, but it was just too much, it didnt look right, but with the tiny dremel bit, it just rounds over the very edge, it is subtle and much better looking.
FYI, you can use a regular router for a very small roundover (1/16"). The size of the router bit is what makes the roundover, not the router. For that application, though, I'd probably use a laminate trimmer. I have a dremel but not the router attachment. The dremel is a great tool but a seperate one from a router or even a laminate trimmer.
Must....have...laminate.....trimmer.....
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well, i dont actually own the router, i borrowed it, and my friend only had like 3 bits for it, the roundover bit was huge, so i used the one for the dremel....it worked out well. I didnt want to go buy bits for a router i dont own.
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only...3...router....bi....
WTF is he thinking!?! :dizzy:
That's like giving your children only 1 slice of bread a day and diirty toilet water to drink!
Tell that man to FEED his router....
Seriously, it's the router bits that give the tool it's versatility. I don't think I'd be able to get by on 3 router bits...
It's cool though. The price is right (free) so I don't blame you.
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A tabletop drill press isn't that much money and is useful to have.
I was reading some tool catalog, and I found stands for your regular drill to make them into drill presses.
Not really great quality but good for keeping the holes you drill fairly straight.
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If its so versatile, why do you need four?
(send me one?)
If you really need one, I can probably send you one of mine, for the cost of shipping only.
I have one that is in fairly unused condition, maybe used once or twice. I bought a portable router table that came with a router but I bought a better router for it and just keep the original router on the shelf and never use it. I cant remember the brand exactly, think maybe it was a Ryobi or something.
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I was reading some tool catalog, and I found stands for your regular drill to make them into drill presses.
Not really great quality but good for keeping the holes you drill fairly straight.
There's also a drill attachment that's basically a 90 degree drill guide. I have one for drilling bigger panels and it works well so long as you don't let it move during drilling.
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I was thinking about this a bit... buttons are held on via clamp pressure of the nut. If your button holes are a slight bit off it won't affect yours buttons AT ALL.
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right.. Button holes dont matter, provided they are never wider than the entire button/nut. Or skinnier than the screw-in part.
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I've made three control panels, all drilled by hand, and never had issues with slanting. Of course, my drill has a bullseye level on the back just for this purpose, so the holes should be pretty close to straight. Also, if using a hole saw, the moment the saw hits the wood you'll know if you're slanting or not based on whether you get a full circle or just an arc.
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The same thing works if using spade bits with spurs. If it's straight, you'll get the outline of a circle, not an arc. I highly recommend irwin's speedbor spades for cp drilling. Very cheap, have spurs and drill very smoothly.