The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: scottyfryer on May 09, 2006, 12:06:58 pm
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I'm having an issue where I'm getting white bars from objects on the screen that go across to the right of the screen. I figured it was because the monitor was set too bright but i've tried adjusting all the pots and even the dial for the black on the monitor. nothing seems to be taking it away. would a Cap kit fix this? It's doing this on both a PCB board and the J-Pac. I've tried adjusting it for 2 hours. Would an improper ground cause this as well?
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Have you tried the knobs on the flyback transformer (see pic). One of the knobs does focus and the other is a form of brightness or something (I can't remember the proper term).
(http://corz.org/blog/img/flyback.transformer.jpg)
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yeah that was the one i meant that was on the monitor.. the other knobs are attached inside my podium stand. Here's a pic of the machine to show you what i mean.
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That other knob on the flyback is the SCREEN voltage.....
(and that's what I was going to suggest) :-\
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I tried adjusting both with no avail.. tried every combination i could of those knobs and the brightness and contrast knobs as well. Just cant seem to get ride of the lines. They're more annoying then anything.
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when you mean lines do you mean bars of about an inch wide or thin line going in a slightly diagonal direction,because one is a cap fault and one is the screen volts too hich
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Do all the knobs (potentiometers) have an effect of some sort on the screen?
Are there any that don't seem to do anything?
Brightness and contrast in particular.
You should be able to turn the SCREEN pot down on the flyback to a pitch black screen.
Do the white bars just come from "objects" or is it over the entire screen?
Just one side or area.....or do they show up everywhere?
Just trying to get a good idea what all it's doing.
Like grantspain said..... might be a cap...... might not be.
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Even if i turn the knob on the fly back all the way down and turn the contrast and brightness up from the other knobs the lines are still there. An example is in double dragon when the garage door is closed the lines from the white sections of the door go right across the screen. Not so much white as off coloured i guess. Then when the door opens all the lines go up with it. Then the wall in the background with the wanted posters etc also has the trails on it and so do the characters. The Title screen double dragon and the health meter at the bottom and what not.
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sounds like you are talking about the colours are bleeding across the screen or something. A pic would help a lot though.
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K i'll try and get a pic tonight if i can.
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Like this ?
(http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/5458/monitor2small4jl.th.jpg) (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=monitor2small4jl.jpg)
I have the same problem :(
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Yep that same problem.
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A combination of brightness and contrast?
or mebby your tube is getting old. I remember this sorta thing used to happen on my parents TV (which was 20 years or so old)
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I don't think its age.
At least in my case it happened inbetween transport... so hopefully its just something im missing.
Sorry... im not trying to hijack the thread.
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Yeah i think mine was working fine until i transported it to my house in my minivan. the monitor is huge with the screen size of 33" and it was sliding around in my van. Maybe it's damaged. Just wish i knew what needed to be fixed.
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have a good check around the caps on the tube base (the board on the back of the tube)
also check the ground connection to the board is solid
also check the ground connections on the video inputs (this will usually result in a dull and smeared image)
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Wow one I can help on.I had this on a game I moved.The flyback broke a solder joint on the board.Must have been from being on the side and the flyback bouncing.
Hope this helps
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Cool thanks guys i'll have a look when i get a chance.. Might just end up paying someone to fix it since i'm not good with this stuff. But i'm in Whitby ontario Canada, so it might be tough to find someone.
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Wow one I can help on.I had this on a game I moved.The flyback broke a solder joint on the board.Must have been from being on the side and the flyback bouncing.
Hope this helps
Did you fix it yourself or just get a tech in to do the job ?
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Any one here know of someone that fixes arcade monitors in the Toronto Canada area. I don't have the time or patience to do it and rather just pay someone to fix it.
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Last night i took another look at it and noticed the back of the screen it has what looks like 2 resisters (not much knowledge of electronics). on the left side it has a spot that has a H above it and the right has one with a V above it. The spot with the V has one and the one with the H looks like its not there but looks like there was one on it. Now i'm guessing that H and V stands for horizontal and Vertical. Would this be causing the problem of these white lines? I tried to take a pic of the inside but my cellphone cam sucks. Heres a pic of the screen and what it looks like.
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looks like ht smoothing cap is shot,i have just had a hantarex do exactly the same but i had to replace every electrolitic on the monitor(can't remember you stating what model monitor you have),some monitors like nanoa's have an electrolitic cap on the neck board that gives same fault-your fault being colour bleeding and a darkness on the tube to the left,correct???
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Any one here know of someone that fixes arcade monitors in the Toronto Canada area. I don't have the time or patience to do it and rather just pay someone to fix it.
This guy is near London. I've used him, very helpful.
www.wolfelectronics.ca
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Ok i took some more pics. This is what i was talking about the resistor or whatever it is that seems to be missing or blew. Would this be causing the White Bars and does anyone know what part this is and how easy it is to replace.
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nothing to with that mate,that is the yoke/scan coils-look at my last reply again,you have some sort of smoothing cap fault-i see it all the time
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So that missing resister does nothing then and I do not need to put one in?
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Is that a Hantarex Polo 33" monitor?
And it does look like a capacitor problem.... I'd do a cap kit on it just to know that it was done recently.
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Pics i have of the board if that helps
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not seen that chassis before but judging by the plugs and pots it looks like a kortek,the earlier kortek's definetly had an issue with caps(all i can remember is that the cap was next to the flyback)
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I'm sure my monitor is KT-EGA33 - Sharp Image. http://www.zax.com.au/spare_parts/monitor-chassis.html
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looks like your right,but still a smoothing cap fault
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I can't find the schematics for this model, only up to the 27 inch. This thing is becoming more of a pain then its worth.
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best to see if you can purchase a complete cap kit and change the lot to be honest
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I sent an email to Bob Roberts about the cap kit. Does anyone know anywhere else to get them?
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Zanen.... but you actually have to "call" them down in Texas. (US)
I believe they have an 888 toll free number.
I didn't see your particular model listed, but they might have some insight on it or put one together. (?)
http://randyfromm.com/amusements/yellowpages/zanen/ (http://randyfromm.com/amusements/yellowpages/zanen/)
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Called Zanen last week and he said he wasn't sure about it and would call me back the next day. a week later and no call.
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Call Zanen back. They are usually pretty good.
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I found one of your old posts ken telling someone to contact joey [jomac@vtgts.com] and he told me:
Hi Scott ,
Sharp Image have closed down ,
Being a professional monitor repair business we don't sell or support so called " cap kits " we leave this urban myth to the cowboys in the US where the term was invented.
We can 100% repair this chassis for you without a doubt , but prefer to get them before they have been destroyed by these unnecessary cap kits.
Sorry to go on about this subject but could you imagine going to your mechanic and asking for a spark plug kit hoping it will fix the noise you have in the rear end of the car.
But if it is like all the other ega models that sharp image made replace C904 , 33uf 250 v , will be near the flyback
They made hundreds of different variations of all their models , most of the models have this cap in the screen control section that is a common failure.
Regards,
Joe
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sounds perfectly feasible that the cap mentioned is the ht smoothing cap-this would give that exact problem,change it
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I'm going to Hit Active Surplus today in Downtown toronto that carries everything under the sun for electronics. Thanks everyone for the help. I'll keep you posted.
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Ok i found a guy in Toronto that Replaced all the caps on my chassis for $125. The monitor looks great now cept i think i plugged a wire into the wrong spot cuz the picture is upside down, but none the less the picture looks great now. Thanks for all your help.
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So all the monitors we have fixed on this forum from the urban myth known as a "cap kit" are just pure luck?
Sounds like someone is upset that their customer has started to think for themselves.
How can he sleep at night charging around $100 or more to fix $10 worth of caps in thirty minutes.
What a whiny little %$#@
Oh, and what does he suggest to replace....... (drum roll)............. a CAPACITOR!
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So all the monitors we have fixed on this forum from the urban myth known as a "cap kit" are just pure luck?
Sounds like someone is upset that their customer has started to think for themselves.
How can he sleep at night charging around $100 or more to fix $10 worth of caps in thirty minutes.
What a whiny little %$#@
Oh, and what does he suggest to replace....... (drum roll)............. a CAPACITOR!
I was thinking the same thing. I think that his thoughts were probably that why should one replace all the caps, when it's only one that causing the trouble. That way when one of the others burn out, you can bring it back, and he'll charge another chunk of money for replacing the next burnt out one. I think if someones handy enough to do it themselves, then spend the $10 on the cap kit, and perhaps another $30 for the soldering iron, and your off to the races, but if ones not comfortable doing it, then one should expect to pay $100-150 to have it done. It's a high price, but if your in business, your in business to make money.
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Bare in mind thats 125 Canadian, plus he replaced all the Capacitors which he hunted down from 2 stores in Downtown toronto. But i paid for it out of my business account as a "Monitor Repair" so it'll look like a computer monitor repair. Plus they don't make cap kits for my monitor. I tried all the sources listed here and the company that makes the monitor went out of business in january of this year. Considering Ken Layton said i was screwed i think all the hassle it would have taken myself to do this was worth the $125 CDN.
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Yeah, scottyfryer, we are definently not dissing on you at all. In fact, I think I kinda like you. ;)
We were shocked at what the guy emailed you. Saying that we on this forum (apparently morons) fix too many things with a cap kit and we don't know what we are doing. Then he turns right around and says... replace X capacitor and it should work. In fact his last sentence says "most of the models have this cap in the screen control section that is a common failure."
A common failure. What do you :censored: know. :laugh2: :laugh2:
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i just want to pipe in here and say something,the reason cap kits are used is because 99 percent of the time it will be only one cap faulty BUT it would probably take 10 times longer to find the specific cap as opposed to doing a full cap kit which we all know costs very little,there are many monitor techs that laugh at the cap kit thing but to me it seems an absolutely logical thing to do for the price and the time :cheers:
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Like someone else stated earlier. If you are in the business and just replace the one capacitor to fix it, eventually another will go out and they will come back and spend another 100 bucks on it.
So sneaky. How does that guy sleep at night? :dunno
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i just want to pipe in here and say something,the reason cap kits are used is because 99 percent of the time it will be only one cap faulty BUT it would probably take 10 times longer to find the specific cap as opposed to doing a full cap kit which we all know costs very little,there are many monitor techs that laugh at the cap kit thing but to me it seems an absolutely logical thing to do for the price and the time :cheers:
Just to add that typically all the caps are the same age and have the same amount use....therefore another will certainly die soon after if you replace just the "one" that caused original problem.
(hence also why you see return visits to the repair tech) ;)
Glad to hear you have it working properly now scottyfryer.