The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: GIjoe on February 13, 2006, 12:10:03 am
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Hey guys,
I recently figured out what I believe to be the cause of my Vertical Deflection problem. I distinctly remember that during the capkit, one capacitor in particular gave me trouble getting it out and the trace lifted completly off.
I simply picked it up, put it back on the end of the lead from the Cap, and tried to solder it back down to the trace.
Monitor Spec: WG K7601
I dont remember the exact CAP, but it was the one right behind the Flyback, before the critical safety cap.
I'm really new at this and I'm scared I've screwed my monitor up bad. If anyone can shed some light on this for me, it'd be much appreciated.
Thanks, - Joe
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if you have damaged your track then simply using a blade scratch off the surface of the track further back so you expose the metal and solder the leg there,check your track does not run on the other side of the circuit board as well,if thats the case you will have join them somehow
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This model is a single sided pc board.
What did you use to screw up the trace, a soldering gun? :o
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I usually fix damaged traces by using the cut legs from caps when doing capkits. Just bend it to follow the trace and solder it to the two points that the trace connects.
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Ken:I used a soldering iron Ken. Somebody warned me about getting the traces too hot and I guess thats what happened. The Pad just lifted up and was stuck to the iron.
Witchboard: so I can just bridge the traces? Not sure if I have any legs leftover. Will wire work?
Grantspain: I've heard this before. So I stratch around the trace ( the circular part ) or do I stratch back where it leads to? And when I do, theres going to be metal underneath?
Because when I removed the solder, theres a brownish material.
Thanks Guys. - Joe
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yeah just scratch the laquer off the track slightly back from the through hole and solder your leg directly there,thay brownish material is just the mark where the track came away-make sure you scratch all the laquer off to show shiny metal otherwise your solder wont take.need to brush up on your solder technique though-always best to cut the legs on a chip or transistor first or on a resistor/diode/cap lift one side of the componant at a time-this saves you holding the soldering iron on too long causing the track to lift,i have done this millions of times and works a treat
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Witchboard: so I can just bridge the traces? Not sure if I have any legs leftover. Will wire work?
Yes. I've bridges the traces on cracked neckboards this way. I would use solid core wire.