The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: lebanull on September 15, 2005, 11:10:09 am
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I just wanted to take this time to say
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On the sound amp, is it an enclosed unit or a regular PCB? When sound is complete but low, you're losing voltage somewhere. I would suspect dead capacitors or a bad connection on the wiring harness. Check the speakers, too, they could just be torn or blown.
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Thanks for the reply. I've checked speaker, tested out and harness is okay.
On the sound amp, is it an enclosed unit or a regular PCB? When sound is complete but low, you're losing voltage somewhere. I would suspect dead capacitors or a bad connection on the wiring harness. Check the speakers, too, they could just be torn or blown.
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Thanks for the reply. I've checked speaker, tested out and harness is okay.
How?
Another potential cause is a bad volume potentiometer. If that is cracked, you're only going to get a small portion of the voltage flow through it.
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I will rebuild the amp and go from there. Do you know of a replacement monitor that would work?
Thanks!!!!
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I am not that familiar with the monitors that Nintendo used.
If you are working on the sound amp, there is no need to discharge the monitor. They are separate.
Why do you want to replace the monitor? At this point, you're saying the sound amp has a problem, the cab itself is not worth salvaging, and the monitor needs to be replaced.
At this point, you just get a different cab and swap the game PCBs into it since nearly everything worth having on the original isn't worth saving, from the info you are giving.
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Replaceing the monitor was just a thought.
I am not that familiar with the monitors that Nintendo used.
If you are working on the sound amp, there is no need to discharge the monitor. They are separate.
Why do you want to replace the monitor? At this point, you're saying the sound amp has a problem, the cab itself is not worth salvaging, and the monitor needs to be replaced.
At this point, you just get a different cab and swap the game PCBs into it since nearly everything worth having on the original isn't worth saving, from the info you are giving.
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Ah. If the monitor works, may as well keep it. Nearly all monitor issues can be repaired without a huge amount of trouble once you have learned enough to do so. These monitors are simpler than they appear to be.
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...so they seem to be.
Here are my before shots. With two kids and a job with many hours, I hope this doesn't take too long :)
Notice the dust on the monitor? 23yrs of arcade dust!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010003.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010006.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010007.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010009.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010011.jpg)
What do you guys think about the burn in? Have you seen worse?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010014.jpg)
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On the sound amp, is it an enclosed unit or a regular PCB? When sound is complete but low, you're losing voltage somewhere. I would suspect dead capacitors or a bad connection on the wiring harness. Check the speakers, too, they could just be torn or blown.
Sounds right and Bob Roberts used to have Nintendo Audio Board Cap Kits ... I had been intending to order one for my SMB.
Cheers
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I will rebuild the amp and go from there. Do you know of a replacement monitor that would work?
Quarter Arcade has rebuilt 19" monitors for the early Nintendo cabs, including the Audio Board. I had looked at picking one up for my SMB project, but am going to trying capping the current monitor instead.
http://www.quarterarcade.com/Game.aspx/4864
Cheers.
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Is that 3/4" particle board ? Hmmm.
Cheers.
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thanks for the input
On the sound amp, is it an enclosed unit or a regular PCB? When sound is complete but low, you're losing voltage somewhere. I would suspect dead capacitors or a bad connection on the wiring harness. Check the speakers, too, they could just be torn or blown.
Sounds right and Bob Roberts used to have Nintendo Audio Board Cap Kits ... I had been intending to order one for my SMB.
Cheers
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Unless there is damage you're not showing, that cab is not only savable but in pretty good shape. Take a look through some other restoration projects around here to see the lengths to which people go to save cabs. Yours looks like it needs a little filler here and there, a fresh coat of paint and some T molding. That's an easy restoration.
The inside of the cab is also remarkably clean. No insects, no rodent nests, no mold or water damage. I'd say you got a cab in pretty good shape, not a crappy one.
I definitely feel what you're saying about kids and a job, I am in the same boat. Sometimes the projects just don't seem to move along for weeks at a time.
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Yeah, from the photos, that game doesn't look bad at all. The monitor burn looks minor, if it isn't noticable when the game is running and the picture is good, I would keep it and not replace it. I have a couple of games with much worse burn.
Wade
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My Tank II has such bad burn my kids like to play it tracing their fingers on the screen while the game is off.
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Okay, My question about saving this cabinet...How would I fix the corners that have no place for t-molding to rest in? I'm not that handy at wood working, any thoughts? as you can see at the bottom, it's missing a complete pc of wood, that I would need to cut.
Any Ideas as to what kind of wood filler works best on these? Maybe I will try to save this guy? ANd how about a good primer? The paint I would have no problems matching.
Thanks so much!
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I don't see any places where you have to cut new wood. The best way to repair that would be Bondo.
I usually use Kilz as a primer, that stuff will prime anything.
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sorry about that, it's the very bottom front(black pc) that's missing. You cant see it.
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Heres a bad corner:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010010.jpg)
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Very simple Bondo fix. Look at any number of other restoration projects here for examples.
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thanks Chad! You might of saved me 50.00. The pints are on me :) CAn you route the bondo so that tmold will fit?
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Once it has hardened you can do pretty much what you want with it.
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Once it has hardened you can do pretty much what you want with it.
I've used wood filler on my damaged corners. In your opinion, will it last? Should I sand it out and use Bondo??
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I'm not enough of an expert to answer that, but I can tell you that Bondo is made for the long term. The long, long term.
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I'm not enough of an expert to answer that, but I can tell you that Bondo is made for the long term.
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Okay. So before I enter the world of bondo, here are my biggest problems:
What would be my best solution here? Remove all that has been cracked before I bondo?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P100a.jpg)
#2
This is the right side bottom, biggest piece that
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Once the Bondo has dried, you're going to have to route a new groove for T Molding, so don't worry too much about that. What you're going to do here is basically recreate the missing parts with Bondo and then route a new groove in there for T molding.
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Thanks for the *quick* reply. Tips for reshaping these pcs?
thanks,
Once the Bondo has dried, you're going to have to route a new groove for T Molding, so don't worry too much about that. What you're going to do here is basically recreate the missing parts with Bondo and then route a new groove in there for T molding.
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I don't have much hands on Bondo experience, sorry. :-\
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I will hunt for some tips ;D
I don't have much hands on Bondo experience, sorry. :-\
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UPDATE:
I had the day off today. So, I decided to restore the controller. All original except, new buttons, t-mold, bolts,instruction card and joystick guard. I think it cleaned up rather nicely.
more to come
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I'd say that's about a 5. But I wouldn't bother changing it unless the burn is noticable when the game is on and the tinted plexi shield is installed. I have some games with far worse burn, but it isn't noticable when the game is running.
Wade
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It would be a bigger issue if it was in a cab other than Popeye.
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Yeah, that too. I don't mind burn nearly as much if it is for the current game. It just shows that it is original. :)
Wade
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My Bally cab had really beat up corners and edges. I used rigid carboard to give me a roughly square line, then sanded. You can't see it after paint.
(http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_cardboardreargouge.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_bondoreargouge.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_repairededge2.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_side2chip2.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~tok/mamecab/images/pdcab_side2bondocorner.jpg)
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Tok - thanks for the tip! I'm currently tossing aroung the idea of making this Popeye into a DK,,,,, :o
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I played Popeye, but never cared for it too much for it because I never felt comfortable hitting the perfect diagonals required for the stairs.
The cab is the same, DK parts are pretty cheap and plentiful, so you can convert it back and forth without doing any permanent physical changes to the cab. Not bad!
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Well, except the side and cp art.
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I didn't consider the side art, but when I mentioned the DK parts, I meant he could just buy another panel. I guess since you're stuck with the Popeye side art anyway playing DK on a Popeye control panel wouldn't be so bad.
Better than playing Popeye, at least! ;)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010031.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010030.jpg)
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Well, I've finished the bondo. This this will need to dry for a couple of days. I have so much sanding ahead of me.
Pictures after sanding...
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What kind of Bondo is that? The stuff we get here in Canada turn a redish pink colour when you mix the hardener in it...
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Micro Lite: light body filler
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heh lebanull? im the only null around here
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Do you have to mix the hardener with that stuff like you do with Bondo?
The pinkish tint of the hardener lets you know you have it mixed, and the pinker it is the faster your setup time is going to be. You can sand Bondo and not have it chunk after about an hour or so. You can hand sand it even sooner.
If your filler is taking a couple days to set up, you either don't have enough hardener in it or you're giving it a lot more time than it needs.
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Glad to see it coming along so well, and ecstatic to see we convinced you to keep and restore this cab rather than swap to another.
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yes, the hardener is a dark blue
Do you have to mix the hardener with that stuff like you do with Bondo?
The pinkish tint of the hardener lets you know you have it mixed, and the pinker it is the faster your setup time is going to be. You can sand Bondo and not have it chunk after about an hour or so. You can hand sand it even sooner.
If your filler is taking a couple days to set up, you either don't have enough hardener in it or you're giving it a lot more time than it needs.
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After I replaced the wood on the bottom, this thing is SOLID! The sanding is coming along really slow. DUSTY-DUSTY!!
Glad to see it coming along so well, and ecstatic to see we convinced you to keep and restore this cab rather than swap to another.
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Nice.
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How's the sound amp coming? I didn't even mess with fixing mine....I just replaced it with one from a set of cheap PC speakers instead. Works great!
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BIG UPSET! The sanding is not going well! I have decided to get a DK cabin. With that said, I will someday turn Popeye into DK. For now I've moved eveything into it's new home.
Anyone looking for a Popeye Kit? Double PCB version. This cab that I found is MINT!
The sides cleaned up nicely! No need to paint this puppy.
Now as for the sound, it's still LOW :(
I havent rebuilt the amp. I was hoping that it was the speaker I had. I'm not sure what dirrection to take... Here's Popeye's new home. Not completed. I'm waiting on the monitor bezel and light fixture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010025.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010028.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010026.jpg)
Clean on the inside:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010027.jpg)
Another project soon to start...Project Pac-Man. I have a Pac cab that was painted in 83'..I'm hoping that I can save the art work :)
I see PAC!! I've noticed a few people here had several ideas on removing painted side art. I tried the heat gun...not working out so well. tips are of course welcomed...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010029.jpg)
How's the sound amp coming? I didn't even mess with fixing mine....I just replaced it with one from a set of cheap PC speakers instead. Works great!
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Until I resolve this LOW sound issue...I will stick a fork into this Popeye project. I'm going to rebuild the amp...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/popeyecmp.jpg)
I'm excited about the Pac Project.
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This Popeye I will be selling for whats been put into it, 300.00. I figured I'd give this community first choice before eBay. Thanks for all your help. Need space...third child is coming. I will only have a tabletop pac.
Rebuilt soundboard...sound works PERFECT!!
*PICKUP ONLY*....or you'lll have to arrange shipping. I'm in central Illinois
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Here are some more pictures. You will also recieve new Popeye sideart that hasen't been put on, original manual and an extra sound board. All for only 300.00
New parts:
TMOLD
Controller buttons, all three
Controller screws and instruction card
Almost mint cab from a DK
Rebuilt sound board
New power cord
minor scratch on bezel
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010022.jpg)
New side art and original manual
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/P1010013.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/eesd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/dss.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v33/cuebin/seeq.jpg)
(http://)
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now that does look great......
hooo hooo :D ::)
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Just as a future note.. It is easier to sand if you make the bondo as smooth as possible (without ripples) on the piece that you are working on. It also makes for a more even sanding job. I have done tons of body work using the pinkish bondo. The grey stuff is made of fiberglass and dries really hard. Just remember to use a little at a time. You'll know it's dry when the tackiness goes away. In sunlight, it does not take long to dry so be careful when you are using it in warm settings.
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Popeye in a DK? You must have been an operator in a past life.
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No, I was a shoe maker....
Popeye in a DK? You must have been an operator in a past life.
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SOLD!
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SOLD!
With any luck, the buyer already has a DK in a Popeye cab...
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That would be nice!
I can't seem to get away from this stuff. I'm starting a new project, soon. DK cocktail that's in pretty bad shape, missing monitor.
SOLD!
With any luck, the buyer already has a DK in a Popeye cab...