The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: AceTKK on March 16, 2005, 11:00:58 am
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I picked up a beautiful 27" tube from a t.v. shop as a candidate for an 8-liner chassis swap. Upon getting it home and breaking out the multi-meter I found readings of ~6.8 ohms across the vertical and ~1 (or maybe even a little less) ohm across the vertical. Now, all I have currently is a super-cheapo Wal-Mart analog Multi-meter so it's accuracy is questionable. I guess my question is does a 1 or <1 ohm reading on the horizontal indicate a problem with the yoke?
thx,
-Ace-
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I wouldn't trust a cheap consumer analog multimeter. Go to Harbor Freight Tools if you have one, and pick up their cheap digital multimeter. Normally $9.99, on sale this week for $4.99 and often on sale for $2.99 Even includes a transistor (PNP/NPN) tester on it. Also make sure you have a NEW 9 volt battery in any DMM, otherwise it can give incorrect readings I've found.
Scan the forum for my post about a 23" tube with a 7.8 vertical and 1.x horizontal. Ken felt it might have pincushion problems on vertical since most 25+ chassis assume 9x as the low end.
I am not going to try the 8liners (I already tried their 19" and posted results at oscar's site) and am instead going to go with the other brand of chassis. I just havn't gotten around to ordering yet.
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I've got a 32" tv with a .8 on the yolk, still works fine as a tv.
It's not compatible with the 8liners chassis.
Later,
dabone
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Dabone, did you actually try an 8-liner chassis with your tube (do they make a 32" replacement chassis?) If so, why wasn't it compatible? Pin-cushion problems?
Yea, I think my first step will have to be picking up a better multimeter. According to the 8-liner website the Horiz. resistance should at least 1.5 ohms. I don't trust this meter I have now to be accurate within such a small range.
Thx for the input,
-Ace-
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A guy I know has a nanao with the same low horizontal ohms--according to victor (from 8-liners) this means that the two windings for the horizontal on the yoke are wired in parallel and not series like a typical arcade setup and therefore will not work unless you somehow turn your parallel wired windings into serial connections. I have no idea what this means, whether its true or not and if so how you would go about doing that. if you do find out please post back as this sounds interesting--hacking a yoke!
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Nah, didn't try the 32 on the chassis. But I did try a 27 with less than 1 ohm and it won't work.
(That was about a year ago, and cost me the hot in the 8liners chassis.)
I replaced the hot and all is well with it, I just use it to test with occasionally.
I use a Fluke 77 multimeter, I've had it for 17 years and it still works great.
Later,
dabone
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well shoot, it sounds like this tube won't be a good candidate for the chassis swap after all. That's too bad, it's only a few years old and in beautiful shape. I didn't pay anything for it so I can't complain too much.
-Ace-
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If the tube is in good condition (no noticeable general burn in, etc..) hold onto it, and im sure you'll eventually find anothe dead tube that you can steal a yoke from and do a yoke swap while you're at it.....
Now if the tube is shot otherwise, then toss it. But I don't toss good tubes with bad yokes.... if your city does a cleanup week in the spring where people put TV's on the end of the driveway for trash, drive around and crack a few open and steal a yoke if you find one that works.
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Heh, good luck getting to the yolk before the vultures do for the scrap value of the copper..