The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Witchboard on March 08, 2005, 11:29:53 am
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Still working on that G07 CAO board.
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I believe the CAO accepts positive sync signals only.
As to no hor/vert deflection, you may have lost power to the integrated circuit or a coupling or filter cap was in backwards. Always remember that sometimes a brand new capacitor could be bad right out of the package.
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Positive sync only eh? I didn't know there was a difference. So, I'll need to find a game that outputs positive sync to get the monitor working.
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7404 Ic Sync inverter.
pin 1 on the 7404 - sync FROM game
pin 2 on the 7404 - sync TO the monitor
pin 7 on the 7404 - Ground
pin 14 on the 7404 - +5
Boom, negative sync input.
Later,
dabone
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Boom, negative sync input.
Do you mean, "BOOM, positive sync input?" I'll google the 7404 IC. Thanks for the heads up.
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That 7404 sync inverter trick is an old Star Tech Journal article and it's often reprinted in the Romstar conversion kit manuals like Black Tiger and Sky Shark.
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It inverts the sync you give it, so negative sync from the game/jpac/avga/whatever becomes positive sync for your monitor.
Later,
dabone
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Thanks guys.
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Yup, a 7404 or 74LS04 is a hex inverter chip. Very common part.
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Yeah, cheap too. ^_^ Thanks again guys.
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Hmmm.. that's not good. I setup the chip on the monitor the way I read the description and flipped on the game. Looked the same to me, so I turned the horizontal hold one way, then back thinking maybe I just needed to tweak something. Then, the screen went dark... and didn't come back on. I could hear the high pitch of the monitor, but it looked like the heaters went out. This chassis is a nightmare. :-\ Next time I see a CAO chassis, I'm leaving it where it lay.
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Hmmm....maybe at this point you should just order that Wei-ya replacement chassis for Electrohomes from Alva Amusements.
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I'm not one to give up. I just need a break from that particular chassis. I did check out Alva, but couldn't figure out which chassis I would need for replacement. I'm presuming the 820H or 814S. I'll keep them in mind, but it just kills me for this thing to get the best of me. ;D
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The 820H is the one to order for your monitor.
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Thanks Ken. I'll look at that as a last resort. I feel the more I work at this the more I learn. First thing I'll do is maybe take the chip back out and see if the picture comes back. Maybe I burnt up the chip? Who knows. Maybe the thing just finally died. The tube isn't the best and I'm not sure if I want to drop $$ on a new replacement chassis for it. I have more time than money at the moment. ;D Thanks again for all the help. If I get the thing figured out I'll post up the results.