The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Artwork => Topic started by: atog on August 24, 2004, 11:43:50 am
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I am building a pacman cocktail and printed out the pac man control panel art on my wifes inkjet printer. It came out looking great, but the glossy photo paper smudged very easily.
I wanted to keep the cocktail as authentic as possible, by mounting the art directly to the metal control panel top.
I searched around for a good way to protect the art. I tried several different clear contact paper/laminate solutions, but they all looked horrible. I also tried taking water soluble satin wood varnish, and brushing it on, but it looked awful.
I was talking to a guy at work and telling him about this, and he said that he might have a bottle of art junk his ex wife left at his house when she moved out. He brought it in to work today, and I used it on a test pacman top, and it looks GREAT!
The product is called "Picture Varnish" and comes from a company called Grumbacher. I did a quick search on google and it looks like the stuff is still available. This can that he gave me is from 1985, it is an aerosol spray. I am not sure if this came out before the whole Ozone thing and CFC's were banned, so although the product may still be out there, I might have the last spray can of it left.
Just wanted to let you guys know about this though, I know I spent a lot of time and money searching for a good way to protect the art, and I just stumbled on this stuff by luck.
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Basically, this is what's known as "spray fix" which is still very common and available today.
Most of the time, in the past, I used spray fixative on charcoal, pastel and other smearable art. Applying a liberal dose of spray fix would protect the art from smearing. It does not, however, protect it from fading, which may be a major issue on an inkjet print over the period of a year or so. There are some UV protectant sprays, but to my knowledge, nothing that is cheap, readily available, or perfect. If it's away from the sun, it should hold up pretty well for a while.
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An easier thing to do (IMHO) is have it laminated. It makes it stiff, protects it, makes it shiny, and is CHEAP. I had a CPO I created laminated for $2 at the local print shop. Looks fabulous - you can see it here
http://thebrokenjoystick.com/pictures/NCV2-done
Brian
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I'd have to agree with that. Lamination is a much better solution all around.
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Lamination is the way to go. There is also Laminate you can buy at computer stores. It comes in a packages like photo paper and you just peel and stick.. It worked great for me on things the size of a normal piece of paper.
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I bought a roll of laminate for covering books. It looked pretty similar to filenabbers laminate.
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I did try the laminate first, and it does work, but it just looks and is so inauthentic. In the long run it is probably more durable though.
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I did try the laminate first, and it does work, but it just looks and is so inauthentic.
Then you used the wrong kind. I had mine done at a print shop and it looks fabulous. First I tried doing it myself with some lamainae roll I bought but it looked "cloudy". The CPO done by the print shop is briagh and glossy. Looks great.
brian
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If it's on the CP my solution was to put Plexi over the top of it.
If it's on the side, I agree with the book laminate.
I never tried the fixative for ink jet paper.
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If it's on the CP my solution was to put Plexi over the top of it.
If it's on the side, I agree with the book laminate.
I never tried the fixative for ink jet paper.
I've tried the book laminate, and it is definitely alot more cloudy then the laminate the print shops use. I'd splurge and spend the $2 at the print shop if I were you.... ;)
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If it's on the CP my solution was to put Plexi over the top of it.
If it's on the side, I agree with the book laminate.
I never tried the fixative for ink jet paper.
I've tried the book laminate, and it is definitely alot more cloudy then the laminate the print shops use. I'd splurge and spend the $2 at the print shop if I were you.... ;)
Mine looks exactly like the stuff filenabber used. Really crystal clear.
I have the same problem with it as I saw in his pictures ... the texture is a bit too coarse. I don't know the exact words to describe it but look at his pictures (or look at mine (http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=16151)). It's not flat. On the other hand, you only see that when you look at it from the sides.
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If you really want to go all out, you can get it printed with UV resist inks, and then laminate it with either glossy or matt on the printed side, and peel and stick on the other.
We just got some laminating done ($2 a sf) on some large prints and the stuff is so thick it feels like a sheet of plastic.
Very cool stuff. We had to call around to find this place though. All of the print shops near us just have regular laminate.
Bob