Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Driving & Racing Cabinets => Topic started by: rmwilson on March 27, 2026, 05:41:05 pm
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Looking for any hep and advice I can get, I need to replace my Namco Potentiometers. (One failed before I could actually test it or know what it is) - its for steering - ( It came out of a Namco Gp 500 (motorcycle arcade)
1. Can any one identify this or a replacement for it? (stamped on the back E1K (OHM symbol) 60 (then next line) 8L - Note the E1 -= might be EI or EL - its just a straight line)
2. If it is a 60 degree pot what happens if i don't replace with a 60degree? 3
3. I was always under the impression they were 5k (is it possible to be a 1k, Can I stick a 5k or 10k into it?
4. blob:https://web.whatsapp.com/122cc473-9b3f-403f-8503-95b21cb9340e
5. Original manual part number was X008-023, X00800-023
Thanks,
Ryan
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I don't know precisely which pot it is, but to answer:
It's probably 1k 60 degrees. i would also presume it's linear, but not sure about the marking there.
Whether you can use a 5k or 10k pot might depend on the calibration options within the game service menu. If there is a complete recalibration that starts from zero, with the pot and the wheel centered, then you would simply calibrate as far as the wheel turns in each direction.
That said, matching the original might be easiest.
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Not sure if this is an exact match, but it is a 1kOhm 60 degree pot used in Namco machines. :dunno
https://arcadefixit.com/product/namco/ridge-racer-2/1k-ohm-pot-part-vg75-03824-00/ (https://arcadefixit.com/product/namco/ridge-racer-2/1k-ohm-pot-part-vg75-03824-00/)
Scott
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Thanks guys for the help and thoughts...
my only concern of switching the 1k to a 5k or 10 is if it will affect any voltage or other circuitry in the game ...
I get what we are saying that it will configure to the max range used I'll have to play with it ...
Thanks guys
Ryan
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my only concern of switching the 1k to a 5k or 10 is if it will affect any voltage or other circuitry in the game ...
If the pot is a typical 3-wire setup, it is acting as a voltage divider.
- Operating voltage (usually 5v) and ground will be on the outer tabs 1 and 3.
- The pot output voltage will be on the center tab 2.
The difference between 1/5/10k pots is how much current they will draw.
- You can calculate this using Ohm's Law -- Voltage = Current * Resistance
- Equation rearranged to solve for current -- Voltage / Resistance = Current
- 1k draws 5mA -- 5v / 1kohm = 5mA
- 5k draws 1mA -- 5v / 5kohm = 1mA
- 10k draws 0.5mA -- 5v / 10kohm = 0.5mA
That's not a huge difference for typical electronic circuits, so as long as the Analog to Digital Converter circuit can operate with the lower current level, a 5k or 10k pot will be OK. ;D
The greater concern when swapping pots is the difference in the range of voltages from a linear 60 degree pot compared to a linear 270 degree pot, for example.
- 60 degrees of motion on a 60 degree pot gives a full 5v range.
- 60 degrees of motion on a 270 degree pot gives a much more limited 1.11v range. 60/270 * 5v = 1.11v
Scott
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hey Scott - thanks for the details there.... certainly helpful ..
My ultimate goal is to TRY and keep the existing arcade and electronics working without damaging or frying anything just because it is such a rare machine .... I want to hook it up to a pc or console to play modern bike games... what I'd love to do is use an old analog switch box say from a printer or something and be able to switch where the 3 different pot values go ... to factory wiring harness into original arcade or into a ultimarc board (uhid or Apac board) into a PC - so I could switch on the fly arcade or modern game :)
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My ultimate goal is to TRY and keep the existing arcade and electronics working without damaging or frying anything just because it is such a rare machine .... I want to hook it up to a pc or console to play modern bike games... what I'd love to do is use an old analog switch box say from a printer or something and be able to switch where the 3 different pot values go ... to factory wiring harness into original arcade or into a ultimarc board (uhid or Apac board) into a PC - so I could switch on the fly arcade or modern game :)
As you mentioned, this is a pretty rare cab.
- You might not want to hack it with any modification that can't be entirely and perfectly undone. Please don't maim for MAME.
Connecting it to a console might be difficult since many of them use 3.3v for the controllers.
How modern of "modern bike games" are you thinking?
- Will they run and look good on your arcade monitor (15kHz or 31kHz?), or are they too high resolution?
- You definitely don't want to send an excessively-high frequency signal into an arcade monitor. :scared :blowup:
- Hopefully, you can adjust the monitor and PC video so the monitor works well with both the game PCB and PC.
There are the mechanical DB25 parallel port switches like this one (https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-Parallel-Printer-Rotary-SB-001/dp/B00E6SQL46/) that you mentioned, but since you also need to swap video, an HD15 VGA switch like this one (https://www.amazon.com/C2G-03364-2-Port-Manual-Switch/dp/B0000AQR8F/) might be a good addition.
- As mentioned in one of the reviews of that VGA switch, you might also need an EDID emulator so your computer doesn't think there's no monitor connected when the switch is set to game PCB video.
Scott