The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Customcade on February 08, 2023, 03:13:46 am
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Wells 39k7600 issue, Screen is beautiful but fades dims out 10 minutes later.
I can leave the game on and shut the monitor off separate for a few minutes turn it on and it's a nice crisp display again but few minutes later it slowly dims out to a blank screen.
Last time I did a cap kit was probably ten years ago but figured I would ask before I jump in a replace stuff that was perfectly fine type thing.
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Slow fade to black is usually the heaters going out in the neck. I don't know your monitor. I'm an old school TV engineer. Check for dry joints on the tube neck conector and around the LOPTX.
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Cool thanks for the reply and will check it out.
Been over a decade since I last did the cap kit and don't remember if I can or cannot pull the neck board without discharging it first.
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Are these caps leaking, looks like toothpaste and not hot glue.
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Couple other spots
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Final example
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you would need to monitor the hv and b+ to prove whats going on
that is just factory glue around those caps
the sort of fault you describe is more likely bad solder joint and i would look in particular around crt socket and rgb input but in general the entire chassis should be investigated
i don't have any experience with this size tube but from previous readings I have seen known issues with 39" tubes and failure similar to this
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i had a bad solder joint like than on the neckboard connection for the G2 that made the screen slowly go dim, but it was like a thermostat, and kept fading in and out about once a minute.
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i had a bad solder joint like than on the neckboard connection for the G2 that made the screen slowly go dim, but it was like a thermostat, and kept fading in and out about once a minute.
That's what this is doing, it's acting like a heater issue.
I checked the back side of the neck board and looks good but will just have to pull the main PCB and look them over again.
I was just hoping to fix it without having to pull it out again.
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next time it happens increase the screen volts on the flyback to see if you obtain a raster, that will eliminate a load of issues
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Will definitely try it, I have not played with any setting's on anything or touched any of the pots for it yet.
It's a nice crisp clear still display when it's working it just fades out after a few minutes after it seems to heat up some.
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If you turn the lights down in the room you'll clearly see the tube heaters. Watch for the heater going out when the issue occurs.
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It ended up being bad solder joints from the manufacture.
Mine all still looked solid shiny and purdy from the cap work I did a decade ago.
I seen at least three points that didn't look good at all so I got those three and then there was about ten more that were questionable if they had a hairline crack so I just hit them all with some heat and added a little fresh solder since I already had it out might as well type thing.
Put it back in and I let it run for 2-3 and was perfect but now the screen was actually too bright where the black was more grey and the white color was too rich so I just barely touched the screen pot on the flyback and turned it down a hair and boom it looks like a brand new screen again.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions, glad it was a free fix and one I could tackle with all of your help again.
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glad it was a simple fix!