The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: tubadude45 on November 11, 2020, 08:26:50 pm
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I recently picked up a kortek ktm-f 33" display. I am getting no picture or any sign it is powered on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
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If you find anyone that works on or knows Kortek monitors PLEASE PLEASE let me know , I have a KT2938DF , 29” monitor that has 120v going to it but won’t power up same as yours
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Argh, I have a Betson Imperial / Kortek monitor that just clicks when I try to power it on. : (
Contacted Betson today and they no longer repair them.
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There are a number of members here who are really knowledgeable about Kortek monitors, so maybe one will chime in and can help.
Or you can always get in line here.
https://www.arcadecup.com/
I haven't sent him a chassis of mine yet but I read nothing but raves about the quality of his work (even if it takes a while.)
And it seems he is so busy that he doesn't spend (waste) time with communication, just pumps out good work.
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Sometimes it takes a while for people to respond, or maybe they just won't without more info to go on.
This facebook group is quite active and useful: Arcade Monitor Repair (https://www.facebook.com/groups/867753813259050)
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quickest way to prove anything on a chassis is dummy load the horizontal output of the flyback, best way to do it is remove the HOT and add a 40w lamp to the centre pin track and ground, if the lamp light up then you can read the b+, if thats all good and the HOT test ok then likely the issue is the drive signal for the HOT which normally going to be an open circuit coil or a faulty ic. If the lamp does not light then you desolder the b+ pin of the flyback and add the lamp to the track of that and then if the lamp lights up then flyback is probably bad
Korteks suffer from bad flybacks and also due to age I expect a fair few caps will need replacing, also worth noting are hv caps in the horizontal deflection circuit which can cause a mutlitude of issues - from killing the HOT to width issues to ocp issues to excessive HV
if you are not technical then don't attempt any of the above due to dangerous voltages, just send to someone for repair- you have quite a few repair companies in North America