The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: AlexFLA on April 06, 2017, 10:56:45 pm
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Sorry for this lame question but after looking at many bartop arcade builds I figured that most, if not all, use battens/glue blocks to attach panels together. Is there a downside of using metal brackets to attach back panel to sides, as well as all other panels together? Is it harder, more expensive (you pay for each bracket), or there are reasons to not use something similar to this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ZMAX-18-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Angle-A21Z/100375047 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ZMAX-18-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Angle-A21Z/100375047)?
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Sorry for this lame question but after looking at many bartop arcade builds I figured that most, if not all, use battens/glue blocks to attach panels together. Is there a downside of using metal brackets to attach back panel to sides, as well as all other panels together? Is it harder, more expensive (you pay for each bracket), or there are reasons to not use something similar to this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ZMAX-18-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Angle-A21Z/100375047 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ZMAX-18-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Angle-A21Z/100375047)?
Could be that the screws don't hold up so well in MDF - Tend to come loose after awhile - using the batons the screws only need to hold till the glue dries
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The glue connection is WAY stronger than the screw connection. Then there is the cost. Metal brackets, individually, are cheap. 2 dozen of them is spendy, especially compared to some rip cut wooded battens.
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PL premium 3x and wood battens... glue and air staple the battens in place... glue, clamp then staple the whole works. once the PL dries it won't be coming apart. it's sticks like baby crap on a wool blanket.
i would recommend against the PL premium 8x though, it's too thick for this type of application, even though it's like concrete when it's hardened. tried it once cause the store was out of 3x. really hard to work with.
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I am starting a build and am not 100% what I will go with. Using ply over MDF would have given me a few more options, but the cost was too high in this case. I will likely use battens, glue and screws. It's true once glue dries, the screws don't do much... but it really helps in glue up, especially if you lack an abundance of large clamps.
The battens and glue should suffice. Construction adhesive if cost effective is OK, but if its much more expensive, you're better off saving a few $$$. Even using PVA wood glue is sufficient, because the glue ends up stronger than the actual wood its holding together. A proper glue joint will hold, and the wood is what gives if there is a break near it. The use of battens will provide more surface area for glue to hold onto, and will therefore be more sturdy if you are using plain sheet goods like MDF.
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I used pocket screws with my plywood build and its amazingly sturdy. Added woodglue as well just to help but not sure it was totally needed.
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I bought several packs of brackets (were quite cheap due to small size required) as well as piece of wood which I'm going to use for battens. Also, I decided to try liquid nails vs gorilla wooden glue. So at the end I'm going to use the battens+glue+brackets to hold the whole thing together. Probably I'm not even going to use screws and nails for battens. Is there any recommendation against using liquid nails (it's much cheaper than wooden glue)?
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I just use standard yellow wood glue, TiteBond to be exact. Nothing special.
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I use wood glue, and a finish nail gun. Basically I consider the nails as just easy clamps to hold everything together until the glue sets. Screws are great too, I would recommend countersinking them, and filling. Just make sure to pre drill. i also restore cabs and the ones that are glued or screwed are still strong 30 years later. I have a phoenix that was built useing brackets held and it's a mess.
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I spent close to 50 dollars on these steel brackets used to hold together deck beams for my pinball cab. They did not hold as well as I thought. I had 2 things going on that messed up my project. The first was I used wood thinner than 1/2 because I wanted it light. This caused me to have to use really shallow screws with my brackets to prevent the screw from going all the way through. The other thing was the brackets allowed for some flexing that I did not take into consideration when I built it. Basically thee whole box flexed. Wood glue might have helped but ultimately I decided that the structure was too weak for vigorous pinball and the wood was just too thin. The structure was so weak that when it came time to get rid of the parts I made I was able to pick it up and slam it on the ground causing it to explode into a pile of wood scrap.
If I was to do it again I would use 3/4 inch no matter what and use wood glue with the battens? I don't know what they are officially called.
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I use Kreg pocket screws and Titebond glue on everything.
Brian
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I use Kreg pocket screws and Titebond glue on everything.
Brian
Amen brother!!!
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I use Kreg pocket screws
been thinking about picking up one of the kits but the want so damn much for them here. ($180 for the big kit and 60 for just the jig and bit)
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Using battens and glue... First two I attached with screws... But tried a Brad gun yesterday. So much nicer. Less steps, and easier to undo mistakes with a few whacks of a mallet... For someone just learning I think that screws will drive you nuts... Lots of drilling and such... Not to say it doesn't have it's place.
Also, if cost freaks you out, think of value... I lack long clamps so the nail gun is pulling double duty at times keeping things tight while glue dries. Plus I borrowed it... So it's quite affordable ;)
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I use Kreg pocket screws
been thinking about picking up one of the kits but the want so damn much for them here. ($180 for the big kit and 60 for just the jig and bit)
Yeah, price is brutal for the kit. It was something I agonized over and after buying it, I wished I had bought it years ago. The one I have is
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1496943714&sr=8-7&keywords=kreg (https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1496943714&sr=8-7&keywords=kreg)
The generic drill bit and drivers work well. I have generics of both since I dropped the drill bit and broke the original tip..... also stripped the driver bit as well.
Brian
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been thinking about picking up one of the kits but the want so damn much for them here. ($180 for the big kit and 60 for just the jig and bit)
That's overkill, the $40 kit is plenty good for this hobby. You could probably even get by with the $20 version if desperate to save cash, it'd just take a little longer.
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1496948717&sr=1-2&keywords=kreg+jig (https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1496948717&sr=1-2&keywords=kreg+jig)
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Just buy the K4 and be done with it. Best $100 you'll ever spend.
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Harbor freight sells a pocket hole jig for $65. Apply a 20% coupon and it is only $52. Comes with screws too. Same as the Kreg but a lot cheaper.