The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Artwork => Topic started by: Haloman800 on February 12, 2017, 11:30:06 pm
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I had this art printed at staples (I believe it's vinyl), and the wood is normal plywood, how would you go about attaching it?
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I am sure that others will chime in with more specific answers for you....but here is what I have picked up (I sark this same question a few months back)
At the very least, primer and sand before you apply the art work.
Is the "vinyl" adhesive backed? If not, you will have to wait for someone else to chime in, or check the googles.....
If it is "peel and stick" then here is what I did with mine....I found the most critical area for alignment (for this panel it looks to be the joystick, as you would want that centered perfectly. If the buttons were of a hair it wouldn't matter) and line that up perfectly. Next cut the button holes and install a few buttons to hold the art in place. Then peel the back opposite of the buttons and stick it down, then remove the buttons and stick that side down.
Last, make sure you get that artwork (which I like by the way) laminated with polycarbonate or cover it with plexiglass after you overlay it.
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I used 3M headliner adhesive.
Spray both surfaces and then put together and use a weight and let it sit for an hour or two.
Agreed on the plexi, will need protection to protect the ink or it will rub off.
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I made an arcade stick for a guy. I had the graphics printed on glossy paper for 52 cents at a print shop. I cut holes for the joystick and buttons, laid it down, and covered it with plexi. Several months later it still looks great, and if he gets tired of the artwork it can easily be replaced for 52 cents. I am at work so I don't have a picture handy. :'(
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I made an arcade stick for a guy. I had the graphics printed on glossy paper for 52 cents at a print shop. I cut holes for the joystick and buttons, laid it down, and covered it with plexi. Several months later it still looks great, and if he gets tired of the artwork it can easily be replaced for 52 cents. I am at work so I don't have a picture handy. :'(
This is exactly what I'm looking for. Could you post a photo later?
Unfortunately this isn't peel and stick/adhesive, simply artwork printed on normal vinyl paper, so I will have to go one of these routes, and I think plexi is the best bet.
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Keep in mind. This was done for someone else with the artwork file provided to me.
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Keep in mind. This was done for someone else with the artwork file provided to me.
Looks great! Where do you get the plexi cut, and I assume you attach it to the wood with screws? How do you drill the holes?
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I have access to a CO2 laser at work. It cuts acrylic like butter and leaves a polished edge. The plexiglass is held down by the arcade buttons and joystick screws.
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For what it's worth... typically I get extra paper around the artwork so that I can wrap it around the board's edges.
I usually put the art in position on a board, and use it as a guide for cutting the holes. I hammer a punch to force my drill bits to be perfectly aligned.
After making the cuts in the board I spray a healthy coat of archival quality spray adhesive on the back of the art. Set it on the board and use a bondo scraper or other hard plastic to push out any bubbles. Roll the bottom edge under the front of the board, stretching lightly and staple it. I cut triangles in the corners, stretch the sides and roll under, stapling to the board. I do the same thing with the back of the art. I make sure the staples are in tight by tapping them with a hammer. Between the staples and glue the art stays down for good.
Looks like your art is flush, so you can't use my method, but this is how I do it, and I've never had issues. I usually cut the holes out of the art after the glue dries with a new exacto blade using the wood edges as a guide. Sometimes before I cut I flip the board and brush a light coat of glue right along the edges of the holes next to the paper to make sure that when I cut the paper it really stays tightly glued after it's cut.
Also... I use Game on grafix that advertises on this site. After 10 years I finally stripped the art off a panel (was still in great shape) so that I could pull out a flush mounted trackball. It was still stuck on solid.
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For what it's worth... typically I get extra paper around the artwork so that I can wrap it around the board's edges.
I usually put the art in position on a board, and use it as a guide for cutting the holes. I hammer a punch to force my drill bits to be perfectly aligned.
After making the cuts in the board I spray a healthy coat of archival quality spray adhesive on the back of the art. Set it on the board and use a bondo scraper or other hard plastic to push out any bubbles. Roll the bottom edge under the front of the board, stretching lightly and staple it. I cut triangles in the corners, stretch the sides and roll under, stapling to the board. I do the same thing with the back of the art. I make sure the staples are in tight by tapping them with a hammer. Between the staples and glue the art stays down for good.
Looks like your art is flush, so you can't use my method, but this is how I do it, and I've never had issues. I usually cut the holes out of the art after the glue dries with a new exacto blade using the wood edges as a guide. Sometimes before I cut I flip the board and brush a light coat of glue right along the edges of the holes next to the paper to make sure that when I cut the paper it really stays tightly glued after it's cut.
Also... I use Game on grafix that advertises on this site. After 10 years I finally stripped the art off a panel (was still in great shape) so that I could pull out a flush mounted trackball. It was still stuck on solid.
Thats great advice. thank you for that