The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Montani on January 31, 2016, 06:59:40 pm
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Hello Everyone,
With the wisdom I have gathered from this site, I have finally started my own build. My first build is dedicated to Friday the 13th for the NES, one of my favorite games as a kid. I am building a pedestal because I want to use an existing 55" TV. I decided to build the control panel first. I am still working out some ideas for the actual pedestal. I have a good PC and electrical background, and zero wood-working experience. So far, I have learned a tremendous amount in my short journey. Many thanks to the good folks who inhabit this forum. If not for you, I would never be able to build this. I will update my progression. Please comment and offer any advice. It is much appreciated.
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I dig it! Looking forward to the rest of this!
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I played that game a lot as a kid, but I never beat it.
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Angled joystick fail. I can see the mounting holes.
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/d/da/StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg/460px-StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg)
EDIT: further explanation
Player 3 and 4 joysticks should be mounted square and not angled. You can angle the buttons so the player stands at an angle, but keep the joystick oriented the same way as player 1 and 2.
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/d/da/StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg/460px-StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg)
Look at the original 4 player arcade machines and look at where the UP arrows are pointing for players 3 and 4. If there aren't any up arrows, look at the mounting bolts.
The reason for not angling this sticks is that people instinctively move the stick the direction they want the character to go even if they're standing at an angle.
People can adjust to playing on angled sticks, but it's not as intuitive. It sucks for guests who haven't used the cab before.
If you still want to angle the joysticks so be it, but don't say you weren't warned.
People on here rail on it because it's a mistake that gets made so often to the point that there are more bad examples than good ones to be found online.
It's not like other things that are a personal preference or aesthetics. It really is a mistake.
It's counterintuitive, but the truth.
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Angled joystick fail. I can see the mounting holes.
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/d/da/StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg/460px-StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg)
Yeah, but you know, follow your bliss and all that...
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I like the concept however...
Would be cooler if...
A) It was themed after an Arcade game
B) It didn't have 6 buttons on P3 and P4
C) The joysticks were not angled
D) If it didn't have so many damn admin buttons
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Please comment and offer any advice.
Since you asked...
Re-evaluate your plans for this panel before you go on. Are you just playing MAME? If so, you don't need the extra buttons on P3 & P4. You don't need to angle your outer joysticks as well. If you're planning on playing console games, then you might benefit from those other buttons - but only you know your intent at this time.
I have a soft spot in my gamer's heart for NES FT13, so the theme doesn't bug me.
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Yeah, I didn't pay attention to the details, just the theme. Definitely want UP to be UP, and reduce the buttons to FOUR each on players 3 and 4-- you don't need six for them.
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Very good information. I appreciate it! The angled joysticks were definitely an oversight. Noted for my next build! I intend to run hyperspin with as many systems as I can cram. I was super liberal with the admin buttons. I only had 3 originally but I kept worrying I would need more. I'm glad some people like the theme! I'll always have a place in my heart for that game! Anyone have experience with any of the pedestal designs? I don't want to have my face planted in the TV when I am playing, and I intend on adding light guns. I figure atleast a 3 foot offset from the TV would be great. Thanks everyone.
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How do you know what the 6 admin buttons do?
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Just wondering what all admin functions you think you need on there?
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The angled joysticks were definitely an oversight. Noted for my next build!
Notice how the angled joystick guys never F*****G fix it, even when it is called out early enough they still just go ahead with it anyway. Fix this one, it isn't like you are going to build a second giant 4 player pedestal.
I love your theme but I feel it is matched poorly with what you ultimately decided to build. Your theme is a single player 4:3 game, which would have been in a 19" cabinet if it had been a real arcade game. However you built a monster 4 player 55" widescreen machine instead.
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My plans for the admin buttons may change. I really want to add a coin door, but with my current pedestal plan I cannot fit it. So 4 of the buttons may end up being coin buttons. If I can add a coin door, then I'll put my start power, pause, escape, TV power (maybe), and 2 leftovers. Leftover buttons I can use to cycle trackball colors, or add TV functions. 6 is probably too many, but I'm easily fascinated by colorful lights...Anyone have success integrating TV functions to their cab buttons? The power is easy. I've done this in the past. I'd like to figure out out to swap TV inputs with an admin button. I've got to hook up the kids Xbox One back up to this same TV. I plan on doing some more woodwork this weekend. Hopefully, I'll have the control panel built. Anyone here have the recoil guns? Is it worth the extra 30v power supply to have them? So far I want them, but would like some input on someone who have them with the needed 30v supply. :dunno
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The angled joysticks were definitely an oversight. Noted for my next build!
Notice how the angled joystick guys never F*****G fix it, even when it is called out early enough they still just go ahead with it anyway. Fix this one, it isn't like you are going to build a second giant 4 player pedestal.
I love your theme but I feel it is matched poorly with what you ultimately decided to build. Your theme is a single player 4:3 game, which would have been in a 19" cabinet if it had been a real arcade game. However you built a monster 4 player 55" widescreen machine instead.
I am super bummed about my joysticks. I'm just looking at the capital to fix this problem. MDF is cheap, but a graphic re-print and lexan are not. It's my first cab so I anticipate MANY mistakes. Immediately after this build, I am building one for my father. So hopefully, I'll have all the mistakes worked out for the next one. I really enjoy building these.
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There are three basic ways to fix it without replacing your overlay and lexan.
The first is simply to drill the second set of holes and have bolts on both holes or leave the mistake holes open.
The second is to switch the side players to e-stiks/happ universals. Those install with no bolts and you still can put some bolts through the existing holes.
The third is to reinstall the sticks the proper direction and drill them in from the bottom with 3/4" wood screws (or 1/2" if your sticks have metal bases). This isn't as secure as full on bolts are, but the side players don't get used much and I have had sticks installed that way for years in some machines without issue. You can still put the old bolts through the existing holes.
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There are three basic ways to fix it without replacing your overlay and lexan.
The first is simply to drill the second set of holes and have bolts on both holes or leave the mistake holes open.
The second is to switch the side players to e-stiks/happ universals. Those install with no bolts and you still can put some bolts through the existing holes.
The third is to reinstall the sticks the proper direction and drill them in from the bottom with 3/4" wood screws (or 1/2" if your sticks have metal bases). This isn't as secure as full on bolts are, but the side players don't get used much and I have had sticks installed that way for years in some machines without issue. You can still put the old bolts through the existing holes.
Great! I think the third option will work for me. Do you think the expanded inserts would also work instead of wood screws? They came with my track ball, and worked nicely.
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Or you can mount them underneath with these:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=317 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=317)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/ri4y1g.jpg)
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Or you can mount them underneath with these:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=317 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=317)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/ri4y1g.jpg)
Threaded inserts like those are defintely better in MDF than wood screws.
More info here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware) in the FAQ under "Threaded Inserts".
Scott
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Or you can mount them underneath with these:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=317 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=317)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/ri4y1g.jpg)
Threaded inserts like those are defintely better in MDF than wood screws.
More info here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware) in the FAQ under "Threaded Inserts".
Scott
Those will work perfect thanks! I can save my lexan and graphic.
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Noted for my next build!
I think the biggest lesson here is to post your ideas earlier BEFORE you cut and especially BEFORE you order and apply the artwork and lexan. Big $$ saved for your "next build".
I will say that option 3 is the best to fix it with. I made the same mistake with angled joysticks on my first build but luckily I had mounted them from underneath. So it was an easy fix to make them straight.
Good luck!
D
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Noted for my next build!
I think the biggest lesson here is to post your ideas earlier BEFORE you cut and especially BEFORE you order and apply the artwork and lexan. Big $$ saved for your "next build".
I will say that option 3 is the best to fix it with. I made the same mistake with angled joysticks on my first build but luckily I had mounted them from underneath. So it was an easy fix to make them straight.
Good luck!
D
Thanks for the advice. I never dreamed I would build a machine. All my other machines are as original as I could make them. I finally ran out of space in my basement arcade and just had too many games that I wanted and could never find. My 11 year old son is the one who talked me into it. So far it has been a great experience for both of us. I sincerely want to thank everyone on this forum. With your help, I am able to pass on my arcade and pinball passion to the next generation who never truly got to experience them like we did!
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In the end, do what you think you'll enjoy, but even with some of the rough words from people, their knowledge is solid. You MUST fix that joystick orientation, or else you'll hate it. PaigeOliver nailed the solutions, as did others, and I learned a new way to do that, too, today. If you need help with graphics, I'm swamped, but I do that stuff.
I'm still fairly new to arcades, 1 1/2 years, though I became obsessed! The idea to post designs and ideas is smart, on paper, but there will always be jerks who will pick it apart. If you're prepared to take the valuable criticism, along with the positive and negative wordings, you'll be better off! That said, enjoy this arcade. It doesn't have to be your last, and with any creative design, you'll always think of something to add to it, or make it better... It's ok. just be sure to step back, appreciate your hard work, and then get in and USE IT! I spend time building, modding, etc and barely play.. but that's mostly because I need to finish my basement (walls, carpet, friends lol).
Keep posting your developments, please.
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In the end, do what you think you'll enjoy, but even with some of the rough words from people, their knowledge is solid. You MUST fix that joystick orientation, or else you'll hate it. PaigeOliver nailed the solutions, as did others, and I learned a new way to do that, too, today. If you need help with graphics, I'm swamped, but I do that stuff.
I'm still fairly new to arcades, 1 1/2 years, though I became obsessed! The idea to post designs and ideas is smart, on paper, but there will always be jerks who will pick it apart. If you're prepared to take the valuable criticism, along with the positive and negative wordings, you'll be better off! That said, enjoy this arcade. It doesn't have to be your last, and with any creative design, you'll always think of something to add to it, or make it better... It's ok. just be sure to step back, appreciate your hard work, and then get in and USE IT! I spend time building, modding, etc and barely play.. but that's mostly because I need to finish my basement (walls, carpet, friends lol).
Keep posting your developments, please.
Well put. I'm definitely fixing the sticks, thanks to the options provided. The carriage bolts will remain, but they will be false anchors. I'm going to mount it from underneath. I just need to use the router and expand the hole underneath so I can spin the joystick. I already ordered the screw in anchors.I will keep everyone updated. I'm certainly open to criticism. Without it, I wouldn't get better. Thanks
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This post also really has me wanting to build a 19" dedicated Friday the 13th cabinet, but I already have a it on my Playchoice machine so it would sort of be a duplicate.
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I'm certainly open to criticism. Without it, I wouldn't get better. Thanks
Let me quote that for posterity.
I'm certainly open to criticism. Without it, I wouldn't get better. Thanks
You're all right. You need anything, you let me know.
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This post also really has me wanting to build a 19" dedicated Friday the 13th cabinet, but I already have a it on my Playchoice machine so it would sort of be a duplicate.
If you do send me a message! I would be stoked to see it!
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I'm certainly open to criticism. Without it, I wouldn't get better. Thanks
Let me quote that for posterity.
I'm certainly open to criticism. Without it, I wouldn't get better. Thanks
You're all right. You need anything, you let me know.
I appreciate it! Thanks!
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I'm certainly open to criticism. Without it, I wouldn't get better. Thanks
Let me quote that for posterity.
I'm certainly open to criticism. Without it, I wouldn't get better. Thanks
You're all right. You need anything, you let me know.
I appreciate it! Thanks!
I just wish more people shared that view. :cheers:
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Love this. Can't wait to see it finished.
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Love this. Can't wait to see it finished.
Thanks! My tribute to a game that forever got me hooked.
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This is going to be fun to watch!
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Love this. Can't wait to see it finished.
Thanks! My tribute to a game that forever got me hooked.
Awesome. I've been considering a cab based on Toxic Crusaders. Easily my favorite NES game.
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Love this. Can't wait to see it finished.
Thanks! My tribute to a game that forever got me hooked.
Awesome. I've been considering a cab based on Toxic Crusaders. Easily my favorite NES game.
Great game. You could do an awesome color scheme with this game. I'm sure a lot of people wouldn't like the theme I went for, but I wanted to do a game I loved that was never commercially put on an arcade.
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I used the router to cut out my inlay for the joystick today. This will correct my angled joystick boo boo. I have 1/4" of wood left to mount the joystick. Does anyone know if this is enough wood to use the expanding inserts for the underneath mount?
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Does anyone know if this is enough wood to use the expanding inserts for the underneath mount?
Sorry bro, doesn't look like it from the picture. Typical inset screws are 1/2 deep. You are going to be cutting it very close at least.
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I have 1/4" of wood left to mount the joystick. Does anyone know if this is enough wood to use the expanding inserts for the underneath mount?
Even if it is workable, 1/4" is cutting it WAY too close -- give yourself more room for error.
Check out "Under mount (support blocks)" here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks) in the FAQ.
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/8/84/Joystickmount-supportblocks.png/161px-Joystickmount-supportblocks.png)
EMDB uses 10 threaded inserts :o , but 4 is plenty. ;D
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/9/93/Emdb_5.jpg)
You can also use 2 bars instead of a square plate.
Scott
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I have 1/4" of wood left to mount the joystick. Does anyone know if this is enough wood to use the expanding inserts for the underneath mount?
Even if it is workable, 1/4" is cutting it WAY too close -- give yourself more room for error.
Check out "Under mount (support blocks)" here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks) in the FAQ.
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/8/84/Joystickmount-supportblocks.png/161px-Joystickmount-supportblocks.png)
EMDB uses 10 threaded inserts :o , but 4 is plenty. ;D
(http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/9/93/Emdb_5.jpg)
You can also use 2 bars instead of a square plate.
Scott
Great resource! Thanks. Gives me more options.
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How much was that sheet of MDF that you used?
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How much was that sheet of MDF that you used?
5/8" MDF was like $8.00
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I will send you 10 bucks via PAYPAL If you want to start over on that. I think you got good ideas, and now that you know a bit more, it's time to start over.
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I will send you 10 bucks via PAYPAL If you want to start over on that. I think you got good ideas, and now that you know a bit more, it's time to start over.
Haha...I knew that was coming.
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Yotsome!
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Seriously, you took the feedback like a man, and you're trying to fix the issue. To me, that's worthy. If you're on a budget, I'd be happy to help out.
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I will send you 10 bucks via PAYPAL If you want to start over on that. I think you got good ideas, and now that you know a bit more, it's time to start over.
And you are 100% correct. Time to lick my wounds and start over. I won't be happy with flaws, and the control panel is the most critical piece. I'll keep updating on my progress.
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Seriously, you took the feedback like a man, and you're trying to fix the issue. To me, that's worthy. If you're on a budget, I'd be happy to help out.
Just keep dishing the feedback. I want a quality build that I can be proud of.
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Moving forward. How many admin buttons do you guys actually use for a hyperspin setup? Should I add left and right mouse click buttons?
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Should I add left and right mouse click buttons?
No. Just map R/L mouse to P1 button 1&2. Or player 1/2 start. Or something like that.
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Not sure about hyperspin, but right mouse click can open settings in some front-ends and emulators.
If you give guests or children any way to screw up your cab, they will find it.
It doesn't matter if it requires a combination of simultaneously pressed buttons or using a hidden shift button,
someone will accidentally do it and proceed to screw up your settings.
(http://s3-media1.fl.yelpcdn.com/bphoto/O0rLlc-V1svpIdjITMNvUw/348s.jpg)
Your goal should be to make it impossible to make any changes to the setup without using a wireless keyboard and/or mouse.
Also make sure the power button is hidden.
I like only having Exit and maybe Pause. That's usually it.
I have two extra arrows on mine that switch between genre based gamelists because all the arcade games on my setup are divided up by genre (using Mala as a front-end)
Since you've got the extra spaces, you could do volume up/down, maybe even mute. Sorry if I missed what interface you are using, but I think the Ipac can be mapped for this just like the volume buttons on a media keyboard.
You could do save and load, but then MAME will ask you to press another key to choose the save slot. Also not all emulators support save states. (experiment with it first to see how it works)
You could do dedicated navigation buttons like Prev/Next Emulator
That's all I can think of at the moment.
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If you give guests or children any way to screw up your cab, they will find it.
It doesn't matter if it requires a combination of simultaneously pressed buttons or using a hidden shift button,
someone will accidentally do it and proceed to screw up your settings.
When I built my first MAME cabinet, the first time I let people come over and play unsupervised, they crippled the damn thing using hidden functions. I had to make a change immediately.
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If you give guests or children any way to screw up your cab, they will find it.
It doesn't matter if it requires a combination of simultaneously pressed buttons or using a hidden shift button,
someone will accidentally do it and proceed to screw up your settings.
When I built my first MAME cabinet, the first time I let people come over and play unsupervised, they crippled the damn thing using hidden functions. I had to make a change immediately.
Lol. I heard that. To this day I'm still trying to figure out how my 3yr old managed to crowbar one of my Mame machines in a matter of seconds. Take Badmouth's good advice.
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Solid advice. Escape and pause is what I'm am going with.
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I always wire the mouse buttons to a pair of buttons that won't ever get used outside of Mame, like coin buttons or the buttons that go to a 4-way stick or something.
Should I add left and right mouse click buttons?
No. Just map R/L mouse to P1 button 1&2. Or player 1/2 start. Or something like that.
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My own setup.... I have a trackball with left and right mouse buttons, but the mouse buttons are not necessary once your front end and emulators are setup (I prefer GameEx, though I have Hyperspin as well that I have yet to learn). I DEFINITELY have Pause and Exit, though I have it set to have to press pause and Exit at the same time (helps with "Oops"s) ha ha.
I agree, you took the feedback like a champ. And I agree with you. If you keep the CP you cut, you'll always see, or know, the improvement you could have made... so yeah, just redo it so you can feel pride for the project, and pride for what you've learned from these great people, which only helps make the experience better. I have very limited time to work on arcade stuff these days, but that's all the more reason to redo something instead of allowing myself to feel bad about any mistake I made. I sold an arcade I cut corners on because I wasn't proud of it. Do it .. DO IT!
:)
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My own setup.... I have a trackball with left and right mouse buttons, but the mouse buttons are not necessary once your front end and emulators are setup (I prefer GameEx, though I have Hyperspin as well that I have yet to learn). I DEFINITELY have Pause and Exit, though I have it set to have to press pause and Exit at the same time (helps with "Oops"s) ha ha.
I agree, you took the feedback like a champ. And I agree with you. If you keep the CP you cut, you'll always see, or know, the improvement you could have made... so yeah, just redo it so you can feel pride for the project, and pride for what you've learned from these great people, which only helps make the experience better. I have very limited time to work on arcade stuff these days, but that's all the more reason to redo something instead of allowing myself to feel bad about any mistake I made. I sold an arcade I cut corners on because I wasn't proud of it. Do it .. DO IT!
:)
Thanks brother. I'm married so I'm used to taking a beating :) Do I need an "Enter" button to be able to select hyperspin games?
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At least in my experience people instinctively use the first button on P1 controls.
I originally used P1 start to launch games, but it was always the 2nd button people tried.
I'd often forget and press the first button on P1 controls also. :lol
If there was a button labeled "start game" though, I'm sure people would notice and use it instead.
Personally I'd rather use the first button of P1 controls.
My hands are already resting there while I'm scrolling through the games.
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At least in my experience people instinctively use the first button on P1 controls.
I originally used P1 start to launch games, but it was always the 2nd button people tried.
I'd often forget and press the first button on P1 controls also. :lol
If there was a button labeled "start game" though, I'm sure people would notice and use it instead.
Personally I'd rather use the first button of P1 controls.
My hands are already resting there while I'm scrolling through the games.
That's strange. I have a test bench setup for my hyperspin. P1 button one doesn't select the games. I have to hit enter on my keyboard. I must have something messed up.
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At least in my experience people instinctively use the first button on P1 controls.
I originally used P1 start to launch games, but it was always the 2nd button people tried.
I'd often forget and press the first button on P1 controls also. :lol
If there was a button labeled "start game" though, I'm sure people would notice and use it instead.
Personally I'd rather use the first button of P1 controls.
My hands are already resting there while I'm scrolling through the games.
That's strange. I have a test bench setup for my hyperspin. P1 button one doesn't select the games. I have to hit enter on my keyboard. I must have something messed up.
Check your keyboard or joystick mappings under the "controls" tab in HyperHQ
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That's strange. I have a test bench setup for my hyperspin. P1 button one doesn't select the games. I have to hit enter on my keyboard. I must have something messed up.
I'm speaking in general terms. I'm not using Hyperspin.
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What interface are you using for the controls?
I might regret opening this can of worms since it seems you're extremely new to setting this stuff up, but forewarned is forearmed and all that.
If you're early in the process and haven't mapped too much yet, I recommend ditching the first four default MAME keys (CTRL, Shift, ALT, Spacebar).
They cause annoying things to happen in windows until you disable windows hotkeys and more importantly aren't compatible with some other emulators that you'll probably want to set up down the road. (press CTRL+ALT+arrow key...there's a good chance your screen will rotate)
By ditch, I mean replace them with different keys. If you're using an Ipac, you can reprogram it to post some other keys in their place.
If you're using some other keyboard encoder, then just use the different connections on the encoder that post other keys. I use V,B,N,M.
You could still get away with using those special keys for coin inputs, since those usually aren't needed for console emulators and won't be pressed in combination with other controls.
If you don't plan on running anything but MAME or are going to use an interface that shows up as gamepads, then disregard.
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What interface are you using for the controls?
I might regret opening this can of worms since it seems you're extremely new to setting this stuff up, but forewarned is forearmed and all that.
If you're early in the process and haven't mapped too much yet, I recommend ditching the first four default MAME keys (CTRL, Shift, ALT, Spacebar).
They cause annoying things to happen in windows until you disable windows hotkeys and more importantly aren't compatible with some other emulators that you'll probably want to set up down the road. (press CTRL+ALT+arrow key...there's a good chance your screen will rotate)
By ditch, I mean replace them with different keys. If you're using an Ipac, you can reprogram it to post some other keys in their place.
If you're using some other keyboard encoder, then just use the different connections on the encoder that post other keys. I use V,B,N,M.
You could still get away with using those special keys for coin inputs, since those usually aren't needed for console emulators and won't be pressed in combination with other controls.
If you don't plan on running anything but MAME or are going to use an interface that shows up as gamepads, then disregard.
Using Ipac 4. I figured out how to not need an enter button. I changed a setting in hyperspin to match my P1 button. I haven't really begun mapping. I just got my hyperspin running with my emulators. Mapping is coming soon. Thanks for the advice
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I made a graphic for the front of my control panel. I have 30.5" x 4.875" of blank space on my control panel front face I would like to fill. This was my first idea. Should I add counselor names underneath the pictures or change anything?
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I've never played the game, but I know the movies... Maybe stamp a big red circle/slash over each face pic, like a kill counter?
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Round 2!
Hello everyone! I've been slowly chipping away at my control panel. I just wanted to give a quick update of my progress. I started completely over. My joysticks have been corrected with this build. I still need to trim the graphic a little, but it is close. I have the control panel box assembled. I am still finishing the paint on it. I will update when I have the control panel attached and begin wiring. Thanks for everyone's input so far.
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Gawdy 80's glory. Pedestal section is under-works. Long way to go.
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Great job! It may be tough to see the benefit of starting over to "correct" the joystick orientation, but you would have disliked it had you kept it that way (maybe this has already been mentioned).
I think you're doing great and that it looks sweet! I personally hated that game... not because it wasn't likable, but because it was nearly impossible (watch YouTube videos). I love that you went with the 8-bit theme, and I really like the buttons on the front corners :)
Good work!
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Great job! It may be tough to see the benefit of starting over to "correct" the joystick orientation, but you would have disliked it had you kept it that way (maybe this has already been mentioned).
I think you're doing great and that it looks sweet! I personally hated that game... not because it wasn't likable, but because it was nearly impossible (watch YouTube videos). I love that you went with the 8-bit theme, and I really like the buttons on the front corners :)
Good work!
Thanks man. Re-doing it was a must for sure. I'm glad I did. The theme certainly isn't for everyone, but it is totally what I was going for. I got my hyperspin pretty well setup. 17000 games audit on 5TB of space. Now that my control panel is together I should be able to begin mapping some buttons. I still need to get some light guns and a coin door, but I am happy with the progress.
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DUDE! That looks awesome!!!! :applaud: