The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: YollGully on December 24, 2015, 01:56:27 am
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Greetings forum,
I am submitting a preliminary design of a two player arcade pedestal with a modular control panel. See (ARCADE PEDESTAL 2015-12-23.pdf). Please let me know if, while looking through these plans you see any problems that could arise during construction such as; wiring challenges, control panel crowding, center of gravity/stability or any other unforeseen problems not mentioned.
Modular control panel will have a removable top front panel. The rear panel will have the system controls and will remain fixed to the pedestal. The front panel be secured along the back edge with dowels and along the front edge with a latch of some sort. I want the wiring connections to be hot swappable using something like CAT-5e or Molex connectors, (http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/334722118_sd.pdf (http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/334722118_sd.pdf)).
The computer will be taken out of it's case and installed in the base of the pedestal. An IPAC-2 and a PacLED64 will be installed in the upper shaft compartment, below the control panel.
Can you verify that about 5-1/2" between the P1 and P2 controls is enough separation? See Figure 1.
Can you verify that 3" of vertical clearance inside of the control panel is enough for future configurations? See Figure 2.
Here is the CAD file in 2013 format for Draftsight or AutoCAD. (ARCADE PEDESTAL 2015-12-23.txt) Change the file extension from TXT to DWG to open it.
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Can you verify that about 5-1/2" between the P1 and P2 controls is enough separation? See Figure 1. That is your preference, so it is up to you(and your components
Can you verify that 3" of vertical clearance inside of the control panel is enough for future configurations? See Figure 2.[/b] Again, that depends on your components, which you didn't make any mention of. Also what are future configurations? Need more info to answer questions like these.
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I am going for a streamlined, minimalist approach to this design. I want this to be as small as functionally possible using a desktop computer and two player configurations.
I printed out a full size CP layout and it seemed cramped standing at it with someone else. I referenced the dimensions from this MKIII layout shown which are even closer together than mine at only 5-1/8" apart. If I put a slight angle in the CP then it would give the players more elbow room and possibly allow it to be narrowed up some in width. Has anyone done that on a two player CP? I know the joystick's up input must be straight towards the display, i am talking about rotating the button layouts.
Also what are future configurations? Need more info to answer questions like these.
I am having trouble finding an analog flight stick to see how much space it will take up. 3 inches should be just enough room for the analog joysticks, trackballs and spinners that I am looking at.
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Arcade machines were made with smaller teens / kids in mind. Even then, it was often shoulder to shoulder.
But something to note... that each generation of kids, seems to be growing taller, and bigger. As such, the older standards will have to be changed.
Also, your home machine isnt a crowded arcade, where space is money. In the beginning, Arcades would rather have two narrow games, rather than one larger game.
Design with comfort in mind. Nobody wants to feel uncomfortable for long spans, while trying to enjoy something.
And,molex connectors are not designed for multiple swaps. They are tight fitting, and the pins will probably pop out after a bunch of swaps.
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Why the IPac2 and PacLED64?
The IPac Ultimate is $1 more, has 96 LED outputs, and includes all wiring harnesses.
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Design with comfort in mind. Nobody wants to feel uncomfortable for long spans, while trying to enjoy something.
And,molex connectors are not designed for multiple swaps. They are tight fitting, and the pins will probably pop out after a bunch of swaps.
Very wise advices: totally agree on both
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Why the IPac2 and PacLED64?
The IPac Ultimate is $1 more, has 96 LED outputs, and includes all wiring harnesses.
I was thinking the same : why not an Ultimate? It's a better solution for the same price unless you do not need to have two separate boards for a very specific reason
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Below is a mockup I built out of scrap plywood.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342394;image)
Also, your home machine isnt a crowded arcade, where space is money. In the beginning, Arcades would rather have two narrow games, rather than one larger game.
Design with comfort in mind. Nobody wants to feel uncomfortable for long spans, while trying to enjoy something.
And,molex connectors are not designed for multiple swaps. They are tight fitting, and the pins will probably pop out after a bunch of swaps.
Comfort while playing and storage space are both important. I believe the CP is well optimized for both after increasing the spacing from 5-1/2" to 9" between P1 and P2 controls. This was accomplished without re sizing the CP box.
The CP is going to be swappable, not modular. Having a removable CP with LED lights can be very difficult. I plan to build different CPs only after this pedestal is completed. My goal is to have a functional arcade pedestal that can accommodate for that in the future. Currently, the only feasible solution I found is to use encoders that are permanently attached to each removable CP. That would allow swapping to be done with USB cables but the LED power is still molex and I have not found a substitute for that.
Why the IPac2 and PacLED64?
The IPac Ultimate is $1 more, has 96 LED outputs, and includes all wiring harnesses.
I did not notice that a wiring harness came with that deal.
Since it was the same price +/-, I thought having them separate would give me some flexibility in CP configuration.
I now regret that decision after building a mock up. I am afraid that with the (possibly useless) flexibility comes added complexity in hardware and software configuration that I now know is not easy.
The front panel be secured along the back edge with dowels and along the front edge with a latch of some sort.
Dowels were not the best choice. Tongue & groove is a better butt joint.
:) EVEN BETTER than that would be a 3/4" aluminum C-channel that is glued onto the rear, fixed CP. It sticks out as a track that the front panel slides into it. See attached. I suspect that friction alone will be enough to hold it in place. Once slid into the channel, the front and rear panel will be solidly connected and function as a single piece. Additional C-channel is glued to the front and rear of the CP for aesthetics.
I am still considering
I appreciate the feedback, thank you guys. This is my first arcade build. I know very little, (relatively nothing) about electronics. I was a carpenter for 10 years and wired a 50amp sub panel in my house. I love designing projects and currently use CAD every day at work.