The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Sarver Systems on October 16, 2014, 08:05:20 am
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Recapped a 20EZ.
Its in a cocktail cabinet.
As soon as I flip the monitor over onto its back to mount it in the cabinet, any slight bump causes it to shut off.
It did this before the cap kit as well.
I triple checked everything on the chassis.
I'm left with the flyback that someone modified to get the focus board mounted.
I ordered a new flyback from Bob Roberts, but it didn't come with the focus board.
I know I can swap the old focus board over to the new flyback, but I was really hoping to replace it as well.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
Also, looking for options on what else could be causing the shut down issues when the monitor is flipped over.
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Probably a cold solder joint sumwhere.........which are always "fun" to find.
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easy way is to leave it in the position where it is working
and do a light tap test to find the area of either bad solder joint's or bad trace's
ed
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I've done that.
I even took a hammer, and tapped slightly around the frame, trying to get a good solid thump on it.
This thing just refuses to work when facing up, and refuses to NOT work when sitting out on the cabinet.
I just recently bought a USB microscope. I'm going to be looking this thing over from top to bottom.
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Does this monitor require an isolation transformer? Its got a standard wall plug on the end of it. But it may plug into one in the base of cocktail cabinet, I can't really tell.
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Yes, it definitely requires an iso. Don't let the plug fool you.
Sounds like a cold solder joint.
Also make sure your b+ is 108 volts
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Sarver Systems
no dis intented
but if u rem we went through the dif between smps and a non-iso chassic
to the point the yellow labled transformer u will see on the input side,
shawn made a very good readme on this point,in 1 of the i do believe your thread's
as a reply,to my scant input
ed
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I didn't have the monitor in front of me at the time I wrote the question.
No offense taken ed. As you know, I always value your help and assistance.
And yeah, the plug is what threw me.
I've got the monitor at home now to get the flyback replaced. I picked it up last night.
Watch for some pics of some awesome closeups of solder joints.
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Do you have the iso xformer from the cab?
Those monitors take 100vac
Question for you Ed,
Is it ok to run those sanyos through regular 120vac iso?
I've read some conflicting stuff on it but I've always played it safe and only hooked it upto Nintendo cabs iso.
I know an iso is 1:1 but I've always metered 100vac at the monitor power in.
If you hook up to 120vac iso, how does that affect your b+?
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I have an iso at home, but it has not been wired up to anything yet. Its just a bare transformer.
I'll just do the repairs and then take it back to the cabinet for testing.
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mgb
good point and q
the short answer is not really
if u go above 120 then yes
like 130
but supply's are built for brown out reasons
ie when power will dip to 99v or peak 120/125v
normal power is 117vac
so u see the 10% swing
this is a mandate to the hydro .co's
ed
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Thanks for that info.
I thought it was probably ok but just never wanted to test it on a customers monitor.
One time after repairing a Sanyo removed from one customer's Mario bros, I actually brought it to another customers repair call in order to test and adjust B+ hooked up to his donkey kong.