The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: MaxAsh on August 12, 2014, 01:47:56 pm
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Hey all - just finished building a test setup for a DIY spinner. Looking for some advice on where to mount it on my CP. I've seen so many different setups. Is there a preferred placement on spinners? I know several spinner games use buttons as well, so I figure I need to keep those within reach to make it comfortable. Below is a quick shot of the draft CP setup. Any suggestions on spinner location are welcome. Right now I'm thinking off to the far left, towards the outer edge of the CP, because I'm going to put a trackball in the nice big center area that's unoccupied right now.
Sidenote: I was amazed at how simple it was to build the spinner. I dismantled a few hard drives I had lying around and pulled out the spindles. I selected one that had a hole in the center that rotated when the larger "bottom" section was twisted. This allowed me to mount the spindle on top of the test board, and only drill a small hole big enough for the encoder wheel spindle to fit through. I counter-sunk a 1" hole about 1/2-way into the test board, allowing me to simply drop the spindle in and still have clearance to turn it without touching. Overall, extremely small CP footprint, which is awesome. To stabilize the encoder wheel, I simply cut the mouse in half and re-used the actual encoder wheel mounts on the mouse body. Why not right? They're already sized perfectly. This also allowed me to just leave the board right in the mouse body, no need for special brackets. On the test board I simply hot glued the mouse body to the board to stabilize it, but on the finished CP I'll make that more secure. Everything moves incredibly smooth, and probably took me under an hour to rig up and start testing. Here are a few pics. If anyone is interested, I can post more showing the counter sunk hole, etc.
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Hey all - just finished building a test setup for a DIY spinner. Looking for some advice on where to mount it on my CP. I've seen so many different setups. Is there a preferred placement on spinners?
Cardboard mockuup panel is the best way to determine what feels right for you.
Scott
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Cardboard mockuup panel is the best way to determine what feels right for you
Okay, so just go with whatever feels good, no real generic location. Works for me. It's such a small footprint, I can place it almost anywhere.
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Is there a preferred placement on spinners?
Yes, yes there is. Typically it's where ever the hell you want it to be.
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I'm interested. Can you show more pics of what you made?
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Are you going to put a real knob on there or....?
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Are you going to put a real knob on there or....?
Yes, I'd like to, and that's actually my next question. The spindle I used has an added bonus: 3 screw holes used to attach it to the hard drive body. I was thinking, if I could find the right knob/attachment, I could use those holes to secure or bolt the knob to the spindle top. Alternatively I'm sure I could just glue or otherwise attach a knob, either way works.
Any suggestions on inexpensive, but not unattractive, knobs that would work here? I've seen people suggest food container lids, knobs from the hardware store, etc. Is there a cheap go-to knob for these DIY hard drive spindle/mouse spinners?
I'm interested. Can you show more pics of what you made?
Sure, I'll be dismantling the test setup to install it in the CP soon, so I'll take a bunch of pictures to show the process. I'll also be building one or two more of these for friends soon, so I should have some decent images in the near future.
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Just wanted to give you some props for rolling your own. I love that stuff. :cheers:
Thanks - I still can't believe how simple it was once I tried it. The knob situation is really the only tough part, and that's more a matter of asthetics and desired feel. Still hunting for an option I like there.
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The spindle I used has an added bonus: 3 screw holes used to attach it to the hard drive body. I was thinking, if I could find the right knob/attachment, I could use those holes to secure or bolt the knob to the spindle top. Alternatively I'm sure I could just glue or otherwise attach a knob, either way works.
Any suggestions on inexpensive, but not unattractive, knobs that would work here? I've seen people suggest food container lids, knobs from the hardware store, etc. Is there a cheap go-to knob for these DIY hard drive spindle/mouse spinners?
What diameter shaft does your spinner have?
If you don't match the knob to that diameter, it can be off-center and cause a bad wobble.
If the shaft is an odd size, you may need to use shims to center the knob.
Scott
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What diameter shaft does your spinner have?
If you don't match the knob to that diameter, it can be off-center and cause a bad wobble.
If the shaft is an odd size, you may need to use shims to center the knob.
Scott
That's part of the intriguing nature of this design - there's no shaft on the top, not in the conventional sense. I'll have to take some additional pics when I get home, but the large silver "disc" you're seeing in the existing pic above is essentially what would be on top of the CP at the moment. It honestly almost works as a spinner knob as-is, but it would be nice to flesh it out a bit more with a larger/more standard feel. So unlike a knob with a small hole designed to fit a shaft, I'll need to figure a way to attach some sort of knob-like object to the existing metal spindle section shown. I hope that makes sense, if not, as I said I'll put up some more pics. Thanks!
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That makes sense.
Can you post measurements?
If possible, use calipers to ensure accuracy.
(http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00fBbtRGPqulcU/Dial-Calipers.jpg)
Scott
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I may have my old spinner knob from my TT2 from GroovyGameGear.com. If I find it you can have it.
(http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/images/medium/Tt2ps_MED.jpg)
DeLuSioNaL29
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That makes sense.
Can you post measurements?
If possible, use calipers to ensure accuracy.
Scott
No calipers in my toolbox sadly, though you just reminded me I want some. I'll do what I can with some accurate measuring, I think things will make more sense when I post additional pics later.
I may have my old spinner knob from my TT2 from GroovyGameGear.com. If I find it you can have it.
DeLuSioNaL29
That would be really great, thank you! I'll get some pics/measurements on here asap so you don't waste your old spinner knob on me if it won't work for my setup. That way we make sure it goes to someone who can use it if I can't :-). Or I could always just re-gift it if it doesn't work out. I'm big on paying things forward.
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Posting some more pics as requested. Here are a few of the process along the way using a second spindle and mouse encoder wheel I have. It's a snug fit, and just barely makes it through the test board. It will be close, but it will work on my CP + Lexan if I cut everything just right. The nice thing about using the existing mouse body is that the encoder wheel mount stabilizes the wheel as it exits the bottom of the CP. This prevents any wobble if you do it just right. I didn't even have to worry about aligning the encoder wheel with the sensor because the board and wheel are in the exact same spot they were before I gutted the mouse. Almost zero effort!
As for securing everything, as I said the test setup is just hot glue. Ideally I'll use a firmer solution on the finished product. Note the small screw holes on the bottom of the hard drive spindle (pic 2). Those can be used in a couple of ways: I could use tiny, longer screws through the CP into those to secure the spindle better and make it more removable or I can use small gauge solid copper wire coming out of each of the holes into small holes drilled into the CP, which will prevent the base of the spindle from turning. On the test setup, I used "spikes" like that with a little hot glue. It's never moved, even with my kids spinning away on the test setup like crazy people.
Note: Third pic is just to show how the encoder wheel goes into the spindle, this is before mounting.
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So the 2" flange with the three holes is fixed and the 1-3/8" part spins, right?
How tall is the 1-3/8" part?
My first suggestion is to look at 1" or 1-1/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe cap. (check in the electrical and plumbing sections of your local Lowes/Home Depot/Menards)
(http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/088700/088700527645lg.jpg)
This site (http://www.harvel.com/piping-systems/harvel-pvc-pipe/schedule-40-80/dimensions) has Schedule 40 & 80 PVC Pipe Dimensions.
1" PVC pipe O.D. is 1.315" (you may need to ream the inside of the cap to get it to fit)
1-1/4" PVC pipe O.D. is 1.660" and I.D is 1.360" (you can use a cap and a piece of pipe) -- larger diameter knob, less reaming
Depending on how accurate your measurements are, 1-1/2" schedule 80 pipe and a cap might also work. :dunno
To ream the inside of the pipe/cap evenly, use a jig like this one (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,138220.msg1453677.html#msg1453677).
Scott
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So the 2" flange with the three holes is fixed and the 1-3/8" part spins, right?
Oddly enough, not exactly. The entire piece shown in overhead view (first pic) spins the way I have it setup. The flange and the 1-3/8" part is a single unit. When you flip the spindle over (second pic), you see the part that the hard drive discs used to be attached to. Technically speaking, that's the part that spins. But by securing that side down, the opposite is true.
Short version - I turned the static piece that normally is screwed into the hard drive body into the spinning part by securing the original spinning piece. Gives me a nice big spinning pseudo-knob.
What's intriguing, and not true about all hard drive spindles I've extracted, is that the hole you see in the center of the spindle in the 2nd picture is basically the axle for the spindle. On some hard drives, that axle is a solid bar, others it has a hole with threads for one of the cover screws to secure into. Because the axle doubles as a securing post for a cover screw, it's a solid piece that's attached to the base that I'm using as my knob side. This means that, as a single unit, the base and that axle spin together. That's what allows me to flip the spindle over and use it essentially upside down. Because that axle/pin is secured to the part I'm twisting, all I have to do is attach the encoder wheel and boom, done.
That's a wordy explanation, I hope it makes sense. If not, I can maybe post a quick video demonstrating the mechanics.
How tall is the 1-3/8" part?
Depends on the spindle, they can vary, but about 1/4" seems close to consistent. Perfect scenario, I use the holes you see on the flange to attach a knob, either by screwing down through the knob from the top and using a small bolt/nut, or by screwing up into the knob from underneath and thus hiding the attachment method.
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With that clarification, consider fabricating a 2.25"-2.5" wood knob.
Hollow out a space for the 1-3/8" part and use three screws through the flange to secure the knob. ;D
Scott
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With that clarification, consider fabricating a 2.25"-2.5" wood knob.
Hollow out a space for the 1-3/8" part and use three screws through the flange to secure the knob. ;D
Easier said than done I'm sure haha. My woodworking tools are relatively rudimentary, I have to borrow a neighbor's router frequently. What's your thinking on that kind of fabrication? Take a chunk of decent wood that's thick enough, use a router to carve out a deep enough circular cavity to cover the 1-3/8" section, then cut an outer circle a little larger than the 2" section? Then sand, etc. Something like that? Not sure I have the acumen for that, but I could give it a try! I can certainly visualize it... creating it will be the challenge for me.
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Easiest way is probably to use:
-- Drill press
-- Clamps or drill press vise
-- 1-3/8" forstner bit or spade bit
-- 2.25" - 2.5" hole saw (without center/pilot bit installed)
Start with a piece of wood the desired thickness.
Use clamps or a drill press vise (shown below) to secure the wood.
PROTIP: Include a spoiler board underneath the wood.
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17630.jpg)
Use the forstner or spade bit to dig out the ~1/4" deep recess for the 1-3/8" part.
Without moving/un-clamping the wood, change to the hole saw and cut the knob.
Lightly sand the knob/prime/paint.
Check for wiggle when knob is dry-fitted and wobble when it is spun -- shim as needed.
Carefully drill pilot holes and secure the knob to the flange with three screws.
Scott
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Easiest way is probably to use:
-- Drill press
-- Clamps or drill press vise
-- 1-3/8" forstner bit or spade bit
-- 2.25" - 2.5" hole saw (without center/pilot bit installed)
...
Awesome, thank you for that detailed suggestion. The only thing I don't have handy that's listed is a hole saw, but I bet I can pick one up on the cheap (or borrow from someone who has it. Looking forward to giving this a try, thanks!
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If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you might want to get one of these. (or both)
Carbide Tip Adjustable Circle Cutter here (http://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-adjustable-circle-cutter-68117.html) -- advantage to this tool is that you can gradually increase the diameter to perfectly match the ~1-3/8". ;D
Not recommended for cutting the outer diameter of the knob. :o
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_19306.jpg)
Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc here (http://www.harborfreight.com/carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-68115.html) -- cheap set, but it works fairly well for occasional use.
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_19304.jpg)
Scott
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If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, you might want to get one of these. (or both)
Carbide Tip Adjustable Circle Cutter here (http://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-adjustable-circle-cutter-68117.html) -- advantage to this tool is that you can gradually increase the diameter to perfectly match the ~1-3/8". ;D
Not recommended for cutting the outer diameter of the knob. :o
Carbon Steel Hole Saw Set 18 Pc here (http://www.harborfreight.com/carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-68115.html) -- cheap set, but it works fairly well for occasional use.
Scott
Excellent, thank you Scott! I do happen to have one nearby, just 10 minutes away. Hopefully they have these in stock, if not I can always order them online, and their handy 20% off one item coupon always helps. If I do order online, I even think they're giving away (cheap) digital multimeters with any purchase. I have a nice one, but you can never have enough spares, even cheap ones.
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Always glad to help people spend their hard-earned money. :lol
While you're there, don't forget to pick up some calipers like the 0.001" resolution dial-type like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dial-caliper-66541.html) (below) -- avoid the "fractional (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-fractional-dial-caliper-92437.html)" kind.
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_16342.jpg)
I don't trust the electronic ones (disclaimer: never tried them) and the Vernier-type ones (el-cheapo (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-utility-caliper-7914.html) version below) can be a PITA to read.
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_17953.jpg)
[/tool suggestions . . . for now] ;D
Scott
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Ha - thanks. Going this morning to see what they have. Turns out I DO have calipers somewhere. My wife reminded me I got some years ago and she pilfered them for some project. I've made her go hunting for them.
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Hey All - was gone a few days, forgot to post these pics. Using an idea above, I grabbed a hole saw, drill press and forstner bit, worked out a nice test knob for the DIY spinner. Not a finished product, but I wanted to show you guys how it came out. Weight is actually nice, I thought perhaps it would be too light, but it feels fine. Definitely a good option for this setup, and only took me two tries (first knob [not shown] was too small).
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Looks Nice, I would try and get a piece of heavy wood, A piece of Oak would be quite nice, But for that real heavy feel you could go with Ebony or hunt down some of the heaviest wood around Lignum Vitae.
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Looks Nice, I would try and get a piece of heavy wood, A piece of Oak would be quite nice, But for that real heavy feel you could go with Ebony or hunt down some of the heaviest wood around Lignum Vitae.
I'm going to hunt around for some scrap and see what's around, but I think the weight is okay at the moment. I'm going to test it out this week, and if it feels a little light I can always add a large thin washer or two between the knob and the spinner base. All I'd have to do is route the cavity slightly deeper and embed the washer (securely). I think it will be fine, but I've got options.